Hi all
I just bought a l20b turbo motor it has forged internals with a garret t04z turbo top mount It came with no carbie but they said it had a su, can anyone tell me what su carb would be best our any other options would be handy?????? or if anyone has a carb they want to sell that would suit its a suck thru set up...
TA
ADZ

Jesus t4z! a lot of people use a 2" jaguar SU for the job, my preference would be well my set up lol. Is the turbo V banded? Cause mine has a 45 DCOE infront of it.

broooooooooooo i was like bidding on that motor eh, but i was out of the house for a night and came back and the thing sold for like 500 and something. shattered, i was very keen on it. I was willing to pay more too as the forgies are worth about a grand for new ones. Hope it goes well for you it shouldnt be too hard to attach a carb, though finding an SU jetted for suck through turbo would be nearly bolt on but harder to find, but really you could fab up any sort of carb if it then has to be tuned, good luck have even seen a suck through turbo beetle with a big arse 4 barrel dominator v8 carby thing on it lol. My plan was to weld in some injectors and run it on a microtech DIGI, and then interrupt the timing with a HKS retarder, so the boost referenced retard can be adjusted with a slider, on the dash, oldschool as!! this way i could run an intercooler. So many cool options, but suck thru carbies sound awesome, all roary and that. I'll shut up now.. hope you find what you need

Hi
That was the motor lol,I no nothing about turbo motors but for that price its time to learn.....

Buy a sigma turbo su. They are built for a 2litre. Not to hard to find if u go on sigma galant site. Probably pay 150-300 for one. Ppl will say they are hard to find but when I was looking to go suck thru set up I found couple for 150.

Hmmm, a T04Z i a hue turbo, If you run one on an RB26DETT usually you won't see fulll boost till 4000rpm, with the l20's volumetric efficancy and capacity i would be suprised if you see full boost before 4800 rpm.

also, T04Z's generally like high levels of boost and can make near on 400rwkw on an rb26 with 18 to 22psi. I would be temped t sell off the turbo if it is genuine and get a much smller frame turbo more suited to lower boost levels and quicker spool/lower power.

a t0620 or 25 G can be had for very litte and will make 200 to 250rwkw and will spool closer to 3,000 rpm on a 2 litre. Untill you have driven a lag monster you won't know how unpleasent it is

even cheaper would be a wrx turbo td04l. this will still make anything with an L20 in it stupid fast for the street, spool instantly and you can still wind close to 18 psi into them.

not having a go or anything but just offering my personal experience

Thanks heaps thats what its all about getting as much info that everyone has is needed greatly thank you.

This is good yet bad information. You've only ever known about turbo's for fuel injected cars haven't you?

Lol the t4z probably shouldn't be used in this sort of set up any how. You'll be pressed to find a turbo to do this job for you that isn't a t25 NOT G and I've never seen a t25g make anywhere near that much kw...

The reason for this is that being draw through you need a turbo that runs a 360 degree carbon seal and they just stopped producing them in the very early nineties simply because draw through was being thrown in the bin for fuel injection. Your best bet would be to try and find a sigma turbo or an old school garret air research which is what I use. The original t25 off the ca's and fj's still run a carbon seal.

And before you ask no you can not add a carbon seal to a turbo if they weren't originally machined to run them but you need one seeing as the fuels being pulled through the turbo.

Hi Skitzone, Where does the fuel end up if you run a later turbo as draw through? Does it dilute the oil in the bearings? Is it a prob for BB turbos as well as floating bearing cores?

it's not the fuel per say it's that with a dynamic seal it works like a piston and ring so theirs a little gap. Which is find with blow through because it's just means the compressor wheels pressurized but with the carby on the front it creates vacuum inside the turbocharged and will end up pulling oil out the turbo and through your engine. Which will create lag, possibly detonation as the oil lowers octane and everyone's going to think your rings are done in. Some turbo chargers by IHI can be rebuilt with a carbon seal and shim but a couple of the turbo shops I've spoken to say the guts have a changed a bit since back in the day and you can put a carbon seal in aftermarket turbos but you usually have to do some machining between the turbo's etc. And I already have an air research so it weas like hmm, replace bearings for $650 in air reasearch or spent $1300 rebuilding and modifying a turbo I haven't even paid for yet.... It is do able just not all turbo's and it is pricey. I'm no expert but this is what I've learnt anyone feel free to correct me.

There is a vw mob in Canada selling new turbos with carbon seals. I have just sent them an email for one for my next project.

Link please? Haven't rebuilt my air research yet.

addressing the original question of which carb. Draw throughs tend to go with an su because they are very easy to tune and setup. a weber will require getting the jets right. With the su you simply rekit it (new gaskets ect) if it needs it, set the air / fuel with one screw and the revs with another. The su of choice is the jag su. It is 2 inch. Next are the 1.75 inch su's like stromberg or the hitachis on 240/260z. Then there are the 1.5 inch sus like the hitachis that came out on the 180bsss.

Do you have a manifold which bolts onto the turbo to fit the carb to? cause this will obviously limit your options.

I still have the Y section Weber mount, Weber and aircleaner setup in a box in my shed somewhere from a 1600 that I had with draw through combo.
Incase you are interested.

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Original 77' 260Z 2+2