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PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 6:31 pm 
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
Guys & gals,

I've been wanting to get rid of my stinky surge tank and fuel system for quite some time now. After looking at a few methods I decided on how I was going to approach it.


Parts you will need:

1. BA/BF Falcon Ute Fuel Pump Cradle (XR6T/XR8 Version has a larger pump good for 250+rwkw).
2. 2x Falcon fuel pump retaining rings. These can be removed from any Falcon. Sedan is easy as it is under the rear seat. You will get 1 ring per car.
3. Wiring connector from Falcon.
4. Stock clean fuel tank.


I have chosen to use a falcon cradle as the pump is easily upgraded (Walbro, Deatchwerks etc), the mounting system to attach the pump is simple, it has an internal swirl pot and the total overall height is easy to modify.

Anyway, pics.

1. Remove the original sender. You can easily just cut off the boom arm and float and put it back in to seal that hole. I had mine welded up.

2. Find the approximate centre of the tank (Left to right) and mark it. You want to drill your holesaw hole a little more to the rear of the tank to make allowances for the new fuel level float.

3. Drill your hole.

4. Weld in a falcon retaining ring.

5. Disassemble the pump cradle and cut 12cm out of the rods that hold the top and bottom together. I had to cut off the ends that had the retaining barbs, which means the pump pops out when not held together.

6. Cut the Falcon float arm to remove the float. Bend the arm 90 degrees to make it shorter. Pop the float back on and crimp the end. Pretty simple really. You want to ensure the float has full range of movement inside the tank.

7. When the pump is installed, the cradle needs to bottom out on the floor of the tank and then you simple push against the internal spring between the top and bottom to seat the pump into place. Simples.

8. We drilled small 'starter' holes in the metal of the tank to allow us to use a coarse screw to anchor the pump. Also a sealing gasket needs to be used to seal between the pump and the ring welded to the tank.

** note: the sender's resistances are different, the stock gauge probably won't work. I have a programmable fuel level gauge in my car. **

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Welding all done. The top of my tank has been chopped to accomodate a battery hanging from the parcel tray.

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1969 Datsun 510 2 Door Sedam - FJ20ET, GT2876R, Haltech, R200 (Street Car All Rounder)
1981 Datsun 910 Bluebird GX Sedan - VQ30DET, GT35R, Jatco (Project Drag - Street 10sec Car)
2011 VW Amarok Highline TD400i


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 7:04 pm 
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Location: sydney
Nice job and a great write up very helpfull


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 9:49 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 8:11 pm
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Location: South Adelaide
Yeah good stuff Tim but please stress the importance of cleaning any fuel tank VERY VERY thoroughly prior to cutting/drilling/welding on it. Best left to professionals if in doubt. These things are bombs if not treated with respect.
P.s. R31/Z31 pumps can also be used...


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2014 3:14 pm 
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
Yeah i can't weld. A mate who does fabrication has done my welding for me.

I installed a Deatchwerks 65A (265LPH) pump last night and some other fittings. The tank gasket arrived and I'll finalise the install and take some more shots. It has turned out great!

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1969 Datsun 510 2 Door Sedam - FJ20ET, GT2876R, Haltech, R200 (Street Car All Rounder)
1981 Datsun 910 Bluebird GX Sedan - VQ30DET, GT35R, Jatco (Project Drag - Street 10sec Car)
2011 VW Amarok Highline TD400i


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 8:01 am 
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Great write up mate. I think this could be my next project!

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 3:41 pm 
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
Guys,

Just an update. I have had issues with insuffient fuel pressure with high load. IE, fuel pump is sucking the cradle dry faster than it can fill.

I decided to ditch the cradle and instead use a new Holley Hydramat.

This product has just been released onto the market and looks awesome.

The holley fuel sock is 15 micro filter so no need for a pre pump filter as well. I bought the 11" x 11". The 8x8 would be plenty as well. The wings of the matt are held in place with strong magnets and some wire. The magnets are from some old laptop hard drives from work.

[ img ]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfE1v65fNZI

I am still using the Ford cradle top and a fuel level arm.

From the top of the tank to the bottom the the assembly needed to be roughly 230mm. The sock plus the pump and hoses etc were bang on 230mm. Perfect.

[ img ]

I will be increasing the boost and will keep an eye on fuel pressure. Fingers crossed!!!

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1969 Datsun 510 2 Door Sedam - FJ20ET, GT2876R, Haltech, R200 (Street Car All Rounder)
1981 Datsun 910 Bluebird GX Sedan - VQ30DET, GT35R, Jatco (Project Drag - Street 10sec Car)
2011 VW Amarok Highline TD400i


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2016 5:37 pm 
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Hey mate,

How have you gone with this? I want to start this project over the next few weeks.

Cheers,

Trent

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2016 9:57 am 
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Location: Western Sydney, NSW
So you weld 1 retaining ring onto tank and the other sits on top and screws into it? But how? The retaining rings just have holes don't they? No nuts to screw into.


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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2016 7:49 pm 
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Location: Western Sydney, NSW
no one knows?


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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 6:57 pm 
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Hey Mate,

I think you can tap some holes into the retaining ring. I still haven't gotten around to this! It's sitting on my garage floor waiting for me. I might start in the next few weeks.

I was wondering the same thing as well.

Cheers,

Trent

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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 8:57 pm 
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Location: Western Sydney, NSW
I have a spare tank and ba fuel pump ready to do it but just thinking. your probably right having to tap some holes cause I don't see any way if they are just top rings


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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 9:03 pm 
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Same, im ready to go. The only issue I have is with the swirlpot. I'm not sure it's big enough.

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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 9:06 pm 
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Location: Western Sydney, NSW
I was told Baz from datsport did this in a trial setup but moved the pump to the passenger side of the tank instead of the middle and then tested it out on track and had no surge problems whatsoever


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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 9:08 pm 
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OK Interesting. I did one in a WRX with a mate a few months back, we used an RC helicopter tank as the swirlpot and it worked a treat. Was quite cheap as well. Works with E85 and PULP so thats another option too.

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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 10:05 pm 
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I believe you're on the right track. The setup that I have from EFI Hardware (Melbourne) uses two rings. Both rings have holes that match the fuel pump assembly holes but the holes on one of the rings are tapped. The tapped ring is welded to the outside of the tank As you are using a steel tank, the thickness of the steel ring needs to be at least 5mm or greater so you can get enough engaged threads without the screw bottoming out on the tank itself. In this regard the length of the screw is very important. The other ring goes on top of the fuel pump assembly.

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