Hey all just got the first bit of paint on my car around the doorjams....My question is, how much will the clear coat make it shine as we know acrylic dosnt come off the gun over shinny

_________________
TUFF 1600

You'll have to buff the clear, and cut and slice a little too. but from what Ive's seen it can come off looking pretty good after.

I'll be using acrylic on mine cause I dont want to home spray 2 pack. I got a pretty useful book that explains a lot about acrylic finishes. When I get home I'll pull out a title and so on. I got it from Pitstop Bookshop.

_________________
1971 1600, L20b, 5 Speed Dogleg Box, R180 open Diff, 32/36 DVAG Weber soon to be Improved Production Car. My First Datto. And will get developed...

Miracles do happen. Glenn McGrath making 61 is evidence of that...

Recommended traders: Shakes, DAZDA

The acrylic i have dosnt need sanding before the clear goes on .....and the clear has to go on within 30mins of finish of spraying the colour on

_________________
TUFF 1600

hey i don't know much about painting cars, but i want to get my car resprayed soon. I have a few rust bubbles coming through. Is it best to just cut out these small rust areas and respray over the existing paint or do i have to strip the paint back to bare metal and reprime. The colour now is a crisp white and i want to retain this colour. Does anyone know the approx price of such a respray.
cheers haydn

_________________
Circuit Race 1600 in the build

My last 1600 was sprayed in acrylic, it was painted before I owned the car but the previous owner had done a awesome job, when I sold the car the paint was probably 5 years old and still polished up to a high shine

ive been told that acrylic is better in some ways then 2 pac because
1. if gets scratched would be much cheaper to get fixed bcause dont have to respray whole panel
2. if finished corectly u can get the same if not better finish then 2 pac
3. paint is cheaper (but u need lots of clear coat)
4. 2 pac fades quicker then acrylic

is this true because im not sure what to spray my 1600 with.... if its true that u can get an equal finish to 2pac is there any other reason y i shouldnt get acrylic

please come foward the experts

_________________
If in Doubt ... Call Datsport

Like most paint, the more work you put into the prep and panel readyness, the better the results.

If you're going to be spraying the car yourself, Acrylic is probably the way to go, cause 2 pack has some nasty solvents in it and it's recommended it be sprayed in a proper spray booth with fans and so on. You can spray Acrylic in your home garage, but even so I'd wear a mask to do it.

That book I was referring to earlier is: 'Spray Painting Motor Vehicles" by Al Probert. I got it from the Pitstop Bookshop, who do sell over the net. Helped me a lot especially on things like guns and techniques.

(Not that I'm an expert, BTW.... Enthusiastic Amateur)

_________________
1971 1600, L20b, 5 Speed Dogleg Box, R180 open Diff, 32/36 DVAG Weber soon to be Improved Production Car. My First Datto. And will get developed...

Miracles do happen. Glenn McGrath making 61 is evidence of that...

Recommended traders: Shakes, DAZDA

good to see your doing your homework and taking care of her

hows she coming along paul

Im nearly finished spraying my 180B sss in primer but im abit worryed about doing the colour myself, anyone know somebody who would do a backyard spray job cheap?

Also...correct me if I am wrong but doesnt Acrylic "need" to be Cured for a long time before you do a first polish.

Few people that I have spoken to that have done Show Quality Acrylic paint jobs have sprayed the car then left it in a shed for 12 months to cure, then polish it for first time. This is meant to help the shine stay in the paint.

Could just be an Urban Painting legend. Anyone else heard this ?

Dude......please read my confession boof story. Dont let you car sit around for to long in primer or "that" might happen.

You can use a NON-SILICONE polish after a week or so. Silicone polishes can block the pores and stop solvent drying out.

But acrylic is not fully hard for a while, and it can take up to three months. After then you can use just about anything.

shakes... slow at the moment cause I just moved house, but it's getting there.

_________________
1971 1600, L20b, 5 Speed Dogleg Box, R180 open Diff, 32/36 DVAG Weber soon to be Improved Production Car. My First Datto. And will get developed...

Miracles do happen. Glenn McGrath making 61 is evidence of that...

Recommended traders: Shakes, DAZDA

mmmmm......started putting primer on about 3 years ago
Things happen slowly in my world.

Hmmm...
1. Yeah this is pretty much correct, but if you wanna good job with acrylic you would do this anyway.
2. Finish depends on the painter and the way they set it up. Some 2K's are awesome.
3. Maybe. I reckon its a about the same. By the time you put on all the layers of acrylic you are probably about the same as 2K.
4. Acrylic fades quicker than 2K. Because the 2K is a chemical reaction (2 part epoxy) it turns out like a plastic. Means that it is very hard to change the properties of the paint.

All of the above depends on the colour.

I got the car painted by a profesional: BUT:
He did the primer first. (he was wearing a mask) in the back yard of the factory. The paint is practically dry by the time it hits the ground.
I sanded it all back and did all the body work. He then came around and painted the repairs. Then spray puttied all the areas which were repaired. I then sanded back all of this. Then he primed all of those areas. I sanded back all of this. THEN we took it to the booth for the final 4 coats of F$&KN bright white. (yeah, said it on the can...)

I wasn't exposed to the paint, cause he did all the painting (and he was wearing a mask/respirator etc.)