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PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 6:17 pm 
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Location: Shepparton
Whether it's 2 pack or Acrylic or even Enamel, 99.5% of the work in a good paint job is panel prep. If you've got your primer/putty sanded so there's enough 'tooth' for the paint to stick to you're halfway there.

Provided you have a reasonably steady hand, the actual laying on the colour's the easy part. Get you panels straight, filled, and sanded, and you're pretty much right. IMHO.

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1971 1600, L20b, 5 Speed Dogleg Box, R180 open Diff, 32/36 DVAG Weber soon to be Improved Production Car. My First Datto. And will get developed...

Miracles do happen. Glenn McGrath making 61 is evidence of that...

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 6:51 pm 
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Location: Shepparton
you right...

Enamel needs a different gun setup to do properly.

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1971 1600, L20b, 5 Speed Dogleg Box, R180 open Diff, 32/36 DVAG Weber soon to be Improved Production Car. My First Datto. And will get developed...

Miracles do happen. Glenn McGrath making 61 is evidence of that...

Recommended traders: Shakes, DAZDA


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 7:08 pm 
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Location: South Adelaide
MR1600 wrote:
ive been told that acrylic is better in some ways then 2 pac because
1. if gets scratched would be much cheaper to get fixed bcause dont have to respray whole panel
2. if finished corectly u can get the same if not better finish then 2 pac
3. paint is cheaper (but u need lots of clear coat)
4. 2 pac fades quicker then acrylic

is this true because im not sure what to spray my 1600 with.... if its true that u can get an equal finish to 2pac is there any other reason y i shouldnt get acrylic

please come foward the experts

-2pack has a harder, more durable finish which is good for resistance to paint chips but bad for buffing because it takes alot more work (sanding, and buffing) to produce that 'mirror' finish. Thats why you see alot of orange peely looking 2pack jobs.

-2pack paint jobs are recommended to be done in an oven and baked on.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 7:38 pm 
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alrite well also my panel work is very very good .. its still not finished but is being done proffesionally.....

any other comments

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 9:57 pm 
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sorry to hijack the thread, but i have just finished spraying acrylic on my 510 and want to rub it back with like 1500-2000 wet and dry and polish it up to a nice shine. Anyone know what type of polish to use? the cream cut types or what?

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 10:19 pm 
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gotta pic dan of you car

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 10:25 pm 
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You'd probably want something softish, and make sure it's non-silicone. Read the label if you're not sure. I assume you've put clear on?

_________________
1971 1600, L20b, 5 Speed Dogleg Box, R180 open Diff, 32/36 DVAG Weber soon to be Improved Production Car. My First Datto. And will get developed...

Miracles do happen. Glenn McGrath making 61 is evidence of that...

Recommended traders: Shakes, DAZDA


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 10:29 pm 
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Location: Shepparton
MR1600 wrote:
alrite well also my panel work is very very good .. its still not finished but is being done proffesionally.....

any other comments
If it's gone back to bare metal, make sure you put a coat of etch primer on the metal, before using any primer surfacer. Etch has a slightly acidic cast to it that bonds to the panels and gives a better key for primer to hold to.

_________________
1971 1600, L20b, 5 Speed Dogleg Box, R180 open Diff, 32/36 DVAG Weber soon to be Improved Production Car. My First Datto. And will get developed...

Miracles do happen. Glenn McGrath making 61 is evidence of that...

Recommended traders: Shakes, DAZDA


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2005 2:21 am 
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Location: midland, perth, W.A
yeah etch primer has followed after all body work..

then goes 2 pac primer then paint am i right

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2005 5:51 am 
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Mr1600, No i don't have a photo of the car, my girlfriend has taken my digi camera overseas, the one in my avatar off my phone is all i have atm.
I recently resigned from my job to take a position back in Perth. It means for the first time in 5 years i won't have a company car and will need my own. this means I have 4 weeks (now 2.5) to get the car back together, and given that it was totally stripped, wheeling around on a mechanics creeper trolley and still in need of a final block back, it has been a bit of a rush.
After close to 200 hours of body work previously, the top coats (3 primer, wet-rub, 3 nissan cream, 1 white pearl and 3 clear) were a rush job. It was around 50degC and 75%+ humidity in the shed up here (gotta love Port Hedland), and the paint was drying waaayyyyy too fast. The extraction in my "booth" was a bit ordinary too with dry paint dust settling on panels between flash off (all of about a minute!!!).
The results suck ass, my car is stripey where the wet paint was goin on over dry and looks like a freakin tiger. The good bits look awesome though, so I'm hoping that i might be able to rub it out of the clear coat and buff it up. If not, I'll just spray over the exterior again later in Perth (thats the beuty of acrylic) since the jams, 'bay and doors etc are all fine.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2005 8:14 am 
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Location: Shepparton
testpilot wrote:
After close to 200 hours of body work previously, the top coats (3 primer, wet-rub, 3 nissan cream, 1 white pearl and 3 clear) were a rush job. It was around 50degC and 75%+ humidity in the shed up here (gotta love Port Hedland), and the paint was drying waaayyyyy too fast. The extraction in my "booth" was a bit ordinary too with dry paint dust settling on panels between flash off (all of about a minute!!!).
The results suck ass, my car is stripey where the wet paint was goin on over dry and looks like a freakin tiger. The good bits look awesome though, so I'm hoping that i might be able to rub it out of the clear coat and buff it up. If not, I'll just spray over the exterior again later in Perth (thats the beuty of acrylic) since the jams, 'bay and doors etc are all fine.
Yeah you could try it. Take it a little at a time and see what happens. But like I said, if you dont want to cut back the pearl and the base colour, dont go over hard.

You could try getting a bucket of warm water, adding a mild detergent, finding a SPOTLESS rag or some ultrafine wet and dry and some common soap. Rub the paper with the soap, and swab the panels with the water as you go. This should get rid of any minor hassles like dry over spray and orange peel.Make sure when yoou've finished you get rid of all the soap residue, else it'll cause even more streaks. Then buff the clear.

_________________
1971 1600, L20b, 5 Speed Dogleg Box, R180 open Diff, 32/36 DVAG Weber soon to be Improved Production Car. My First Datto. And will get developed...

Miracles do happen. Glenn McGrath making 61 is evidence of that...

Recommended traders: Shakes, DAZDA


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2005 6:19 pm 
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Posts: 341
Location: Wollongong
I'm a bit late contributing to this, but my Uncle is a panelbeater and he says:

Acrylic scratches easier, but is easier to do in your back shed.
2-pak is harder, but is HIGHLY POISONOUS. Don't accidentally breathe any in...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 10:27 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2003 8:07 pm
Posts: 327
Location: mount barker wa
i hope my spellings correct here. 2k paints contain iso-cyanates, a yet unproven carcinogen. the eyes absorb it faster than the lungs so even mixing paint should be done in a proper paint mixing room with an air fed full suit.
when i say yet unproven, give it 10 to 15 years when lots of old spraypainters start dropping off, then we will realise just how deadly this stuff can be if not handled correctly. a lot of automotive sealants have iso-cyanates in them too, sikaflex being one that is absorbed into the body via pores in the skin.
as far as i'm aware there are no actual proven facts, but it's common knowledge in the automotive industry, remember there once was a time when we all thought asbestos was safe too..............


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