Hey guys mates blown the head in his 910 series 2. Ihe has a spare motor and box I told him I'll rebuild the motor and swing it in for him.

I will be rebuilding the other one lower comp for a draw through sc14 set up I just don't have time to do something so wild yet.

I have a 640 Wade 292 adv degree can. From memory lift was around. 492 and 230 @.050 being shut can't find the specs anymore.

I have the v91 head here and a spare a87 head. A port matched 45 dcoe manifold with a single on it.

Am I better off spending my time porting the A87 or am I better off cleaning up the large port v91 and adding a set of flats to it?

How larger percentage difference is the weight between the hypereutic pistons and the factory? Is it within ten percent?

Also s2 bluebirds factory flat top I've heard? Have only ever worked on l18s.

The s2 bluebird still run a dish in the pistons, however they are smaller then the l18 and 200b l20b. This means if you throw on a closed chamber head on you will have a good street combo.

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Chris Thomas

1971 1600, mild L18, 5 speed

All I want is less to do, more time to do it and higher pay for not getting it done.

And so it begins.

and how did it end up?

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http://www.healingchambers.com.au

Cranks back in rods and pistons back in everythings clearanced correctly. The oil pumps been disassembled all clearances checked, cleaned, new gaskets and re assembled and packed full of Vaseline.

The a87 head was very much corroded and unusable. Back to using the v91 head which was disassembled robot washed and slightly skimmed. Had was slightly hollow in the centre. All new valve stem seals fitted.

Had the "b" stamp camshaft reground to 284 degree advertised and .480 lift. Picked that up on friday and have cleaned and polished all of the cam towers.

Now planning to go round homeboys this weekend to borrow his external micrometers to measure an ungrounded "c" stamp lump stick I have to start by adding that much thickness to the lash pad to check wipe. Have a feeling its going to be one slow process but has to be done.

Unfortunately the reason i can't use the camshaft from my motor was I got mixed up between the "292" in that and the "292" in my 355. The Datsun one has .590" of lift and where its measured unsure if .030 or .050 is like 250 lol. Was going to be to much drama with valve to piston clearance and a high enough compression to get the low rpm cylinder filling decent enough for it to not be doughy as hell so re using the bluebird head and a street grind was the easiest option.

And untaping the journals on the new bump stick I've found a mark on one I can get my nail on. So back to can shop for their opinions on it. Will be highly mad if they rwgrounded a can without first inspecting the journal wear...

hope your have valve springs that can handle say above 480lift as the stock springs will stack up.
Key is if the head is done right , the valve seats and stems are close where one size will only be used. Mine where close to .150 .160with new Aftermarket cam. if a reground mine was close to 180 .190. In USA most last pads are not counter sunk so taller retainer are used. I think Baz said he has a set up thats different but never seen it thats countersunk to use the stock retainers.

To do th lash pattern I just get a ink pen and mark the rubbing area, put rocker in and set lash turn cam a few times and then pull out and adjust if needed.then mark the rocker and set aside and start on #2 rocker. pull out when set. If the stems and seats are perfect only 1 lash pad size is used. if one stem or valve seat is sunk more than it will use a different size.

I usually do this with a empty block and bolt head on using the center head bolts. Doign one rocker at a time so the cam is ez to turn . then you got it all set and everything is good I install the rockers in set and call it good set to TDC then bolt it on block when ready

http://www.spannerfodder.com/the_works_ ... ratios.gif

get a 280zx Turbo or KA hi volume pump

Yeah I'm about to give in on this. Just spent three n a half hours to practically get nowhere. Took me a while to figure out that I needed to set the clearance first with the added lash in. I know I know pretty **** obvious.

So cylinder one exhaust is exactly what the math worked out to be if its good enough wipe. It was the best I could get it. No where near as centre as I usually get pushrod adjustment but was best I could get it at .0150 and micrometer did say something like .09943 or something had been ground off it. Got it written down on bench next to head.

Cylinder one intake heels out really badly seemed like no matter how much I added to it tried between .012 and .022 and it wasn't even really changing the wipe position.

Will wait til Thursday with a clear head and go again.

Thanks hainz but honestly mate it started off as a re gasket ring and bearing for a mate at $500 labour. (Put it in perspective engine shops in my city charge 90-140 an hour.) I've disassembled it cleaned it checked all clearances and re packed it.

I planned on taking all shims , springs , cam, rockers etc from my head and transplanting them into his as mine next time will run will be turbo. I wanted all his sss stuff for budget turbo cam set up but his cam had some bad lobe wear. Assuming from having valves reseated and not being correctly shimmed now. And mine was to wild to just straight bolt in and swap everything over.

I didn't get a cam card withvthe shaft as only one shop does cams here and in his book just said. "Suit atock to mild motor with header and carb upgrades may require shims" and didnt have anything stated about needing springs. They do look close to binding though. I need to clear my head and figure out what I'm doing with it.

I'll update when I stop sooking and find the solution.