This was the best I could seem to get the exhaust valve on cylinder one is this a pass?

To me that looks good and you got a bit room to go eitherway and be ok. just add the valve lash say .008 and .010 with feeler gauge then turn can in direction as motor running then pull out and look at the wipe pattern.


well luck for me I bought all my lash pads in set of 8 from the .150 to .190 size. so I had it covered if I needed a spec size. But if it was a little off I stuck the same size pad in to complete it as a set.


a good machinist or perfect machine job is if a striaght ruler is across the valve stems and its perfect across all cylinders. But since one re does the seats and maybe valves and maybe cam tower shims it all can change the measurement.


what you can do is buy 1 of each size then just write down what you need then buy them, then install


This is EZ. If I can do it anybody can. Its not that Im smart. I only look smart if Im surrounded by dumb people



.475-480 lift cams the inner will be close to stacking up so check. YOu might get away with this. anything bigger you need better valve springs.

Baz says the stock 510 exhaust manifold is fine. I like them myself. iTs only a L motor

the photo below is my L16 with a Schneider(new) .460 lift. What I did is use a stock outer spring and a aftermarket inner spring since this is a daily driver. Has taller valve retaners and 150 pads or .160 if I remeber right

Yeah all the theory adds up to sounding really easy and honestly I was thinking 2-3 hours would have all 8 but I've got no spare blocks so having to wind the pivot adjuster nut all the way down and removing the rocker every single time then bringing it back up to set the clearance then leaning the head over to turn it over and then starting all again is so time consuming.

I just had the head slightly surfaced as had a small hollow in centre and robot washed but the head had been previously re conditioned before he bought the motor and had pretty bad can wear.

I'd buy a pad in every thickness to just slot in n test in perfect world but I haven't been able to find any in my state all the ones I've found and are $12-35 ea and dealing with yet another tight arse Datsun owner.

I'll look at it again tomorrow night may even just skip the cylinder one intake see if I can get all the others and get back to it.

The pivot nut adjusters are really having to come up to get the cold lash correct can this be quite a problem or no big deal its the normal with reground cams due to the reduction in base circle?

yes on regrind cams you got to dial the post up. and taller lash pads as you said. the base circle is smaller

(just for info)as the head wears the rocker will be adjusted down over time as the valve seat will sink then you cant adjust anymore. In early bronze seat heads and most times its the exhaust that cant be adjusted.

Agh the rocker gets adjusted down I was worries it'd need adjusting up with wear to counteract can base wear and lash pad wear. That's not such a big deal then if they're really high up. I was worried they'd have next to no future adjustment left in them.

Thanks for the info once again.

To get the wipe pattern right, grab a cheap set of feeler gauges and cut them into little thin strips that will fit between the top of the lash pad and the tip of the rocker arm. Keep messing around with different combos of feeler strips in there till wipe pattern is right. Add the thickness of feeler gauges needed to the height of your test lash pad to get the height required for the new lash pads. Or grind the "ears" off the top of a lash pad so you can just use the feeler gauges without cutting them down. Or if you hav a lathe (or a mate with a lathe) machine up a "test" lash pad with no "ears".

Like this (the little thin strips, not the "normal" sized feeler I'm measuring valve clearance with)

_________________
1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

That's how I've been doing it and still struggling. Just came on here to get the link to the escort page to see if thicker should go closer to pivot arm or thinner as some valves am testing thicker n thicker n doesn't seem to be changing unsure what I'm doing.

Also snap on actually sell feeler gauges thin enough to go in without cutting for future if you do this often.

Okay so do I need to get a head shop to double check this or cam the valves be recut or redone in a previous life anywhere near enough for the wipe to bw correct with .0620" of lash pad ADDED? One looks like may even need bit more. Now remember yhe head has been previously reconned and the cam lobes and rockers were rooted on removal even before shaft was reground..

photo 037 seems to be to much to one side


if head is good it just getting the correct size lash in there. to make it right

That was the one I was saying seems like it needs more lash yet again but but .0620" was just seating the rocker arm tip in the pad so I couldn't accurately try more. Do you think just order one more with another .050 on top or do I need to order 7 and keep stacking the last 1 til it reads correct?

Man its up to you, you can wing it on the last one till you get it right the seven will be the same I think thats what your saying and add what you think is needed on the last one. (best guess, Hail Mary what ever you want to call it

Yeah to easy man thanks heaps for your patience. In the end it was as easy as it seemed just had absolutely no idea it would need so much added to it. Must've been pretty damn ticky that even before cam was reground was over .0450" out lol. Surprised it even ran.

Slow and steady.

I usually put the front cover on first before putting the pan on not to ruin the oil pan gasket. when its on a engine stand. also try not to pinch the head gasket also in the corners

If you have any doughts if pinched do it now while its on the stand. Oil pan gasket is cheap. Than having a new motor leak everywhere

Oil pan was undone to fit timing cover. Was only on to keep dust out of bottom end while assembling the rest of it. Backed all the bolts out to a half turn in them. Timing cover easily slid in place to secure don't think I've damaged anything its how I usually do it n haven't had one leak yet.

Yet... Hopefully this motors finished teaching me lessons and doesn't teach me anymore before its done.