i'm soon to be building a turbocharged engine for a mate of mine's car he plans to drag race. it's an, um...."older" straight six engine with pushrods and siamese port head.

so yeah, a 202. now please, i'm not looking for info pertaining to said engine, more on the assembly side of things and what to look out for, considering i have never built and engine FROM SCRATCH.

the head will be professionally machined with bigger valves (using the VK 12port head), Rhodes lifters and iskendarian springs.
a crow cam, pushrods and actuators are being fitted.
the bottom end is copping ACL HQ racing pistons with a 30cc dish machined in them to bring the CR down to 7.2:1, moly rings and ACL bearings.
block is copping sleeves in the water / oil jackets (and recesses in the head) and i'm not "o" ringing the block at all, just relying on a thin copper head gasket and good tune. rods and crank will be shotpeened and polished (like a mirror) with chamfered oil galleries.
other than that, nothing is being done except for a light hone and the journals checked for trueness.

i consider this a very budget build (except for the rhodes lifters), but as stated i'm going to have to put all this together myself.

when i have the machine shop work their magic, do they work out all the clearances? is there anything i have to worry about when bolting the bottom end together - like fitting the bearing shells and crank or is it all straight forward once everything has been worked out?

i do plan on getting a manual for this, but just after little tricks and snags etc etc

cheers

_________________
frankenstein projects R us.

The Republic of Western Australia -
Propping up the Nation's Economy since 1901.

Okay, you're not the only poor fool who's tinkered with red motors!

Get a manual for the simple reason that you'll have a ready reckoner for factory torque settings and clearances. And it can help jog the memory when the brain fade gets to you. Nothing fancy, just a Gregory's or Haynes.

What conrods are you using? Please use either aftermarket rods or Blue/Black motor rods. Red motor rods are best used as fishing sinkers. Use decent rod bolts too - I still have a beautifully balanced and polished Holden rod which is also terminally bent due to a faulty rod bolt.

Rhoades lifters are great, but really require a high-volume oil pump.

As with any engine build, be prepared to fit and test fit all the parts a few times - always double check the machine shop's work. Get some plastigauge for checking bearing clearances.

202's hate revving and vibrate like a dildo. If you don't want to see 6" long cracks in the block behind the lifter galleries, I'd advise getting all reciprocating parts balanced professionally as well.

The main thing you'll take away from this excersise is a greater appreciation of how tough good Japanese engines are!

Best of Luck,

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Chris [;-{)>

yeah the only red bit left is the block. blue crank, blue rods, black 12port head. ARP studs and a good balancing is mandatory. i'll have to run a high vol pump to keep pressure up to the mains with the chamfered oil holes, so no biggie there.

i told him to swap in an RB30 with an RB25DE head, but he wants a 202 - so be it.

the test bed will be an HJ kingswood and then we'll lose some weight and slot the combo into a starfire corona

_________________
frankenstein projects R us.

The Republic of Western Australia -
Propping up the Nation's Economy since 1901.

i've got a tip for you aaron... tell him about nissans

he's a holden man thru and thru.
i can get 400 rwhp out of a turbo 202 using a prepped factory bottom end so it's no issue power wise or $$$ wise.

he's building a slat flat racer style of car. satin black, lowered on redwalls, minimal interior etc etc.

i don't think an RB25DET or VH45DE would suit it really.

_________________
frankenstein projects R us.

The Republic of Western Australia -
Propping up the Nation's Economy since 1901.