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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2003 11:48 am 
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HI People,

I was having a discussion with a mate and oils came up.
Now I've always used Penrite, but some of these synthetic oils are supposed to be pretty good (considering most builders reccomend that you dont run an engine in on synthetic oils).

Also that castrol magnatec, supposedly sticks to the engine parts.

What's everyones opinion on synthetic vs mineral oils?
Does anyone use magnatec, is it any good?

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2003 2:56 pm 
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Firstly, I'm not a fan of magnatec. It seams like a bit of a gimik to me. What I say is just warm you engine up a bit before you take off and thats plenty.

Secondly, I am a big believer in synthetic oil for newer engined cars.

I've heard that castrol synthetic R 10W-60 is really good. In melbourne theirs a place called RacePace Motorsport that build (not import modified and retune) 600 plus kw GTRs etc etc that have a real reputation for nissan engined cars and they swear by castrol synthetic R 10W-60. And thats good enough reason for me to use it...
Other than that, Mobil 1 synthetic 0W-40 is also very good. :wink:

Mineral oil tends to brake down in terms of carbon to carbon chains (year 11 chemistry) when under high temps and pressures which is what turbocharged engines go through. They lose their lubricating properties once it starts to brake down and that?s prolly why you hear of engines lasting along time with synthetic....

That?s my understanding and explanation for it anyway

However, On my daily driven old l20b datsun, I'll stick to mineral based oil. I've read that for older engines that havent been rebuilt etc that synthetic is a no no :roll:


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2003 7:06 pm 
I've spoken with Penrite techs at length about this Q. Their view is that synthetics are best for high load/temp situations. So if you're car does lots of heavy towing in high temps, or is a high output turbo for example, then best use a synth. In most cases tho, a quality mineral oil is more than good enough. Of course, you won't loose anything except some money by going with a synth oil.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2003 7:24 pm 
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I guess it goes without saying (then wyh did I say it ... :lol: ) that very frequent oil changes using mineral based oil will be just as good on a low stress motor as using a synthetic oil changed less frequently...

I make it a religous event to change oil every 5k :wink:


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2003 5:06 pm 
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I posted this on another thread...

My opinion for what it is worth, is that you should run a synthetic engine oil. There is a difference between the viscosity of an oil and it's wear protection properties. Synthetic oils have less imperfect molecular chains in the oil, hence better wear protection (the oil molecules can handle higher temperatures and pressures). The viscosity can cost you HP. The oils they use in F1 cars are extremely thin but still offer amazing wear protection. I would use Mobil 1.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2003 10:43 pm 
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Cuz (XPLOSV) wrote:
I make it a religous event to change oil every 5k :wink:


this will throw a spanner in the works for you, and boy is this gonna be a sticky thread.

i make a habit to NOT change a synthetic oil any less than about 60thou intervals. *crowd goes silent....sparrow farts* there are VERY many harmful alkalines in synthetic oils that do more damage than good in any engine. if you run a mineral based oil it's not so bad, but there are still more alkalines in them than years gone by. (saying that i would never ever put mineral oil in my car unless it was an excel or something) i change my FILTER ONLY at 5thou intervals, and the oil in the filter gets thrown with the filter. i then top the new filter up with DIESEL oil and put it back on and awayeee i go. diesel oil has a mild amount of detergent in it that de-carbons the whole engine. obviously if you run full diesel oil it'll be blowing smoke in a week, but a little bit helps a hell of a lot.
and before you ask "where's the proof?" and muttering things about me being crazy and PMing each other about me behind my back, i have just witnessed the rebuild of a Holden 202 in a friend's stock standard LH torana with a speedo reading of 562,657 who followed this exact procedure since new and the bores were almost perfect, with very minimal carbon and bearings that look like those i've seen in 150thou engines pulled apart for a freshen up. the reason for the rebuild? dropped a valve while towing. otherwise it would still be running today with 105-110 psi in each cylinder, using 1 litre of oil every 20thou klms due to a leaky sump gasket. :roll:

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2003 10:48 pm 
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sorry i just re-read my post and realised i fkd up.
i dont put diesel oil in it EVERY filter change, just when i change the filter AND oil. at filter change time on 5thou intervals, i use the oil matching that in the car.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2003 12:24 am 
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Yeah When I said I change oil every 5k, Its mineral oil. Synthetic lasts longer. But I fail to see how changing it frequently hay harm the engine...

Quote:
there are VERY many harmful alkalines in synthetic oils that do more damage than good in any engine


If this was true, would changing oil less frequently eliminate this problem? How?

Oh and regarding the diesel oil in the filter...I to have heard of this and will prolly start when I get a my next car which isnt a stock l20b :wink:

What I do though is change oil every 5k and change filter every 10k. I used to change the filter every 5k and every time I look inside (closely with a torch etc etc) I see nothing but clean steal. So now, I change the oil and instead of changing the filter every time, I change it every second time and replace the air filter on the times I dont change the oil filter.....
:lol:


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2003 12:28 am 
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Damn!...sorry. The forum is playing up for me and I've posted the same thing :oops:


Last edited by Cuz (XPLOSV) on Wed Jun 25, 2003 12:31 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2003 12:29 am 
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Damn!...sorry. The forum is playing up for me and I've posted the same thing :oops:


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2003 2:50 pm 
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alkalines are worse that acids in oil. there are two types of corrosives, acids and bases. an alkaline is a base. (getting into Yr 10 Chem now, excuse me if i get a bit muddled).

the alkalines burn off as the engine oil heats up. so changing your oil less often means less corrosives in your oil. that's why after you change the oil in your car, heat it up to running temp, and take the cap off to smell the sump fumes it'll burn your nostrils good and proper. it takes about 3 - 5thou klms to burn it all out, so changing your oil every 5thou means you're always running a corrosive element in your oil. not good.

put it this way, do you run coolant or water in your radiator? same difference in operating life.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2003 2:23 pm 
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pro240c thats a very interesting bit of information you got their...

Have you got any links or possibly references to books that I can grab off you...Might be an interesting read.

P.S these alkalines you speak of, are they present in synthetic oils too?

Cheers


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2003 4:26 pm 
all synthetics and really cheap mineral oils (due to the cheap-er manufacturing processes and additives)have a significant amount of alkalines. good mineral oil has very little alkaline in it, as do most semi-synths like 2stroke bike oils, but enough to do damage over say 200thou if oil is changed every 10thou (funny that, that's when most engines need a reconditioning....never noticed that until now!).
i don't have any websites but i can give you Ray's email address if you'd like to discuss this option with him further....?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2003 5:02 pm 
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Nah thanks anyway but I was just after an intersting read.

Its a very Interesting bit of infomation though. Something that I was completely unaware of :shock:

Cheers


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2003 10:37 pm 
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Thanks for that peoples.

I think I'll be sticking to the penrite. I only change my oil once a year, but the thing is off the road for 9 months out of the year, so thats plenty for me. (someone said to me, 'if you wanna go fast get a bike'. so I did and ride that in the other 9 months)

So as far as lubrication goes the synthetics are better, but as far as corrosion goes a good quality mineral is the way to go. Is that a fair summary?

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