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 Post subject: twin webers
PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2005 8:17 pm 
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Location: melbourne
hey guys,
i am currently in the process of building a 1600, i have a L18, with an a87 head, and have a set of twin 45 webers (choked to 38s) in the shed and was wondering whether they are worth putting on. i have heard that require too much maintenance and aren't worth the hassle for a road car. :?
thanks
scott reeves


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2005 9:36 pm 
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i never had any problems with my twin 45's. they sound awesome too :twisted:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2005 6:51 am 
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Whoever told you that is a damn fool.
SU's require more maintenence then Webers.
You tune Webers ONCE & thats it. :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2005 11:11 am 
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thanks guys, i am just about to get my engine rebuilt, so what sort of head work would i need if i decide to put the webers on???? i dont wanna go too overboard (being 17, money isnt that plentiful!) and dont want the thing running like a pig...... :P

cheers
scott


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2005 11:14 am 
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Depends on what comp ratio you are running and the type of cam you have?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2005 11:20 am 
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i am not sure of the specs, but i know the cam is similar to the sss cam. The engine was out of a rally car, my dad put it in years ago, so, i dont know if any work has alrwdy been done! it did have a really lumpy cam, but we changed it i will try and find out the specs and post them....
thanks
scott


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2005 2:44 pm 
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Hey man,

As you will need to be running a different manifold to facilitate the twin webers I think at the very least you should get the head match ported to suit the new manifold.
If you want to get the most out of the 45's you should start thinking about bigger valves, a ground cam, and a polish. But this might be something to think about when you get some more cash.
Maybe you could test the lumpy cam once you've changed to the 45's. It wont cost you anything....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2005 7:17 pm 
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Lurch wrote:
Whoever told you that is a damn fool.
SU's require more maintenence then Webers.
You tune Webers ONCE & thats it. :wink:
Correctly setup and maintained SU's(new/rebuilt) will be just as reliable as webers.
The same can be said about webers, correctly setup and maintained they require no extra involvement. Old and shagged they need rebuilding.
Sure on SU's you need to top up the damper fluid but if they are new or rebuilt this isn't really an issue.

Enough of the SU bashing.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2005 7:29 pm 
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Location: melbourne
thanks,
i was talking to my dad, and he said that the car the engine came out of was a rally car and running twin webers, so i am guessing that some head work may have already been made to accomodate for this??? the current cam is a 130A grind, a bit more than a sss one....
thanks
scott


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2005 7:58 pm 
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Location: S.E Melbourne
Quote:
i dont wanna go too overboard (being 17, money isnt that plentiful!)
...well, with petrol at $1.20 a litre and rising, you sure you want to be pumping it through twin gas guzzlers at all? Might be a lot of fun; but if its you're only car its going to be pretty costly to run....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 11, 2005 12:43 pm 
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Location: Canberra
I actually found that my 180B got about the same economy with twin webers as it did when it had the standard carby.

I guess the chief difference being that it was running stupidly rich with the standard carby, and I got it properly tuned when I put the webers on. Yes, it cost about $400 to dynotune it and get the jetting right, but once it was right, the thing was magic.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 11, 2005 6:32 pm 
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Datsss73 wrote:
Lurch wrote:
Whoever told you that is a damn fool.
SU's require more maintenence then Webers.
You tune Webers ONCE & thats it. :wink:
Correctly setup and maintained SU's(new/rebuilt) will be just as reliable as webers.
The same can be said about webers, correctly setup and maintained they require no extra involvement. Old and shagged they need rebuilding.
Sure on SU's you need to top up the damper fluid but if they are new or rebuilt this isn't really an issue.

Enough of the SU bashing.
Mate, I'm not SU bashing. I was simply generalizing.
But the simple fact is SU's DO require more regular adjustment to keep them performing at their peak performance.
I know this because I run 180B SSS SU's on my L18 and have 240Z SU's on my 260Z.
Both sets were rebuilt (by Carburetor Services in Melb.) but they still require fettling from time to time. I love SU's - they are so easy to work on.

Webers on the other hand are a hell of a lot harder to tune by the 'home enthusiast'. It?s because they require far more parts to get the 'tune' right - e.g. chokes, main jets, idle jets, airs... etc. Therefore they are also more expensive to setup. They are also more complicated & have finer tuning parameters per choke, main jet, idle jet, etc. combination.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 11, 2005 9:50 pm 
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Hmmm, I bought my 1600 SSS 7? years ago.

We filled it up with fuel, I drove it home, I drive it regularly, I have never touched the Su's on it except to add a bit of dampener oil.

When ever I remember to check it that is, and it is normally empty.

Never even notice they were.

I have no idea who is rebuilding your Su's, but please don't send people there.

Come to think of it, if you set Su's up, tighten, there is nothing that can go out of adjustment.

Needles normally don't drop out by themselves, idle should stay set, I have no idea why people hate Su's or Hitachi's soo much, I have always had hassle free driving with them myself.

Webbers and in the old days V8's good old Holleys were a pain in the arse.

My 32/36 on my wagon never seems to have hassles with tuning, hense why the extra set of hitachi's I bought years ago still havn't been fitted to it.

But yeas I have ad 45's and 40's on Fiats in the past, I hated them :evil:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 11, 2005 11:52 pm 
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Well Rick, perhaps its just me trying to get every last .001% HP out of my Dattos...
Quote:
Needles normally don't drop out by themselves, idle should stay set, I have no idea why people hate Su's or Hitachi's soo much, I have always had hassle free driving with them myself.
WELL OK Rick. I bloody hate damn SU's :evil:
There the most stupid carb ever invented.
God knows why the Japs ever fitted them to Datto's.

FFS... :roll:

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