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PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2005 1:56 pm 
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Location: Perth
This whole conversation seems to be getting no where.

A properly built and warmed up 13B will last just as long as any thing else.

Mates of mine built a 13 B PP which was fitted to their Stanza autocross car.

Any how, this car/engine has lasted over 6 years of abuse, on dirt, and track work.

What is abuse you say.

Lets see any nissan engine, have 4 rough blokes using it non stop all day.

One has a go, next gets in, then the next then the next.

By the time all 4 have had thier turn, the next course is set, and it is back on again.

Most events are over 6 hours long, and the car never gets a chance to even be turned off.

Yes every event it gets seviced , new oil, only ever has ultimate 98 with a splash of redline 2 stroke oil in the tank ect ect.

Any how, this engine was made out of a pile of 13B engine bits they had lying around, just fitted new seals to the best bits they could find at the time.

I wouldn't say I would ever drop one into a Dastun 1600 though but that is my choice.

Another engine to look into if you want a cheaper non nissan engine, that is twin cam, fuel injected, turbo, or non turbo, very strong in my eyes you could not beat a Mitsubishi 4g64 twin cam out of a front wheel drive Galant 1989 era, small amount of work, and mitsubishis original 4g single cam? gearbox out of import turbo (mental blank :roll: ) two door sigma looking thing :P when I remember what is was called I will edit my post :!: will turn it into right wheel drive configuration, new exhaust manifild, and a computer, friend used a link in 1991 and the thing was unstopable, (was still going hard in 2003 used daily) and made great HP :P

This was fitted to a old Galant station wagon, and was removed to do paint the car, but owner lost interest, but we could go into his kitchen (yes kitchen) take the engine into the shed, bolt her back in, and thrash it for another 10 years if we wish.

Any how, I believe non nissan transplants in a 1600 is sacriligious, but hea, do what you wish with your car.
I just wouldn't do it.

_________________
1970 P510 SSS sedan
1971 P510 wagon + spare shell
197? 180B SSS Coupe
1981 910 SSS with Z18et, Leather interior


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2005 3:31 pm 
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Location: Melbourne, Vic
Sean,

A rotary does not produce the equivalent of 3924cc otto cycle engine.
Its more like 654 * 2 (number of rotors) * 2 (number of power strokes per two revolutions) = 2616cc. And one with relatively poor efficiency at that.

http://encyclopedia.laborlawtalk.com/Wa ... ary_engine

Thanks for the stimulus to learn more about rotaries, but next time, please don't make comments like that until you can really confirm what your saying. Oh and forgive someone not totally familiar with rotaries for following the manufacturers specifications, my mistake.

Dave

_________________
USA Daily: 2014 Nissan GT-R, very minor modifications for the track
USA Project: 1978 280Z, minor suspension upgrades, VK56DE conversion in progress. SOLD
AUS Race Car: 1973 240Z, L28ET, Autronic, GT35R. SOLD
AUS Project: 1972 1600, 3200km old S15 SR20DET, ground up rebuild. SOLD


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2005 6:32 pm 
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Ah, gotcha. I was just trying to get it to a point where a comparison with a conventional engine could be made so we could compare it with the other engines listed, ie based on rpm as you said. I'm sure you'll agree a 13BT doesn't behave like a 3.9L engine?

Oh and my personal thoughts on this rotary `reliability':

reliability to me has less to do with correct operating procedures and more to do with tolerance and strength in the face of adversity.

Knowing that if I overrev my engine, or if I don't do this magic `start-up procedure' (which I woudln't mind hearing about btw) I'm going to lunch my engine doesn't exactly inspire confidence, compared to say, the stories you hear about L-series tolerating abuse.

I think the key phrase from the link I pasted was that the engines are highly-stressed. I was using displacement as an indicator and a way of comparing it to engines I (and maybe others) are more familiar with. If they are highly stressed, as in, almost at the point of breaking, from factory, well, thats not inspiring confidence either.

I'm not trying to say every rotary engine will blow up. But pro, talking about stock engines being driven in stock conditions (I don't care how much throttle you apply) doesn't mean jack about an engine's overall reliability if we are talking about a serious (or moderately serious) performance application where modifications are going to be the order of the day, but let me rephrase my initial opinion:

13BT, questionable reliability in modified form

Dave

_________________
USA Daily: 2014 Nissan GT-R, very minor modifications for the track
USA Project: 1978 280Z, minor suspension upgrades, VK56DE conversion in progress. SOLD
AUS Race Car: 1973 240Z, L28ET, Autronic, GT35R. SOLD
AUS Project: 1972 1600, 3200km old S15 SR20DET, ground up rebuild. SOLD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2005 6:45 pm 
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Location: Perth
thehelix112 wrote:
Oh and my personal thoughts on this rotary `reliability':

reliability to me has less to do with correct operating procedures and more to do with tolerance and strength in the face of adversity.

Knowing that if I overrev my engine, or if I don't do this magic `start-up procedure' (which I woudln't mind hearing about btw) I'm going to lunch my engine doesn't exactly inspire confidence, compared to say, the stories you hear about L-series tolerating abuse.


13BT, questionable reliability in modified form

Dave
Magic start up is warm the thing up gently, you should never get into any car (never mind what engine) and thrash it while it is cold.

Rotors like to be warmed up properly, and also cooled down properly.

IE: dont thrash it non stop all day, and just shut her down, drive normally for a while so it cools down properly, just like turbo timers let turbos cool a little so you don't cook the oil.

Most people who modify 13B t's don't freshen them up, they just add bigger turbos, lean them out and thrash them.

Most people who buy SR's and Fj's rebuild the engine before they bolt them in, or go silly with bigger turbo's and heaps of boost,ones that don't blow them aswell.

I actually know of more turbo SR's FJ's Ca18's Z18 det's that have had super short engine lives.

Reason is the same, they buy a import engine, drop it in, thrash them, add bigger turbos lean them right out, and boom there goes the pistons, rings and even heads.

Please remember low import engines are normally thrashed in Japan, where and when possible, as they don't expec the cars to live for 30 years.

By the time they get here, they do need a freshen up, before being dropped in and thrashed.

_________________
1970 P510 SSS sedan
1971 P510 wagon + spare shell
197? 180B SSS Coupe
1981 910 SSS with Z18et, Leather interior


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2005 9:15 pm 
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Location: Perth, out in the sticks
Wow wat a response cheers for all the responses fellaz that was what i was after. And datto_boy get **** i didnt want to search the forum and get no where thats why i posted this topic quote: dipshit. Everyone else cheers for the replys it has enlightened me on my engine choice.

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Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2005 5:41 am 
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Location: Melbourne, Vic
Locked. Shitfighting will not be permitted. The offending parties have been officially warned.

Dave

_________________
USA Daily: 2014 Nissan GT-R, very minor modifications for the track
USA Project: 1978 280Z, minor suspension upgrades, VK56DE conversion in progress. SOLD
AUS Race Car: 1973 240Z, L28ET, Autronic, GT35R. SOLD
AUS Project: 1972 1600, 3200km old S15 SR20DET, ground up rebuild. SOLD


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