I am thinkin of maybe updating the L16 with a bit more get up and go.
I was thinkin either a 13B rotor as there arent done to death.
Or a SR20DE or T
Or a RB20DET

I am after reliabilty, performance, fun and fuel economy.
What are peoples thoughts on these engines?

Cheers
Ryan

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Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something.

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Nissan Bluebird - S15 SR20DET
Nissan R30 Skyline - RB26DEmassiveT Project car
Nissan R32 GTR - RB26DETT

what he said

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frankenstein projects R us.

The Republic of Western Australia -
Propping up the Nation's Economy since 1901.

yeh not much help

_________________
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something.

SR20, done to death
RB20, torqueless and a lot more things to buy if you want more power (6/4 times in fact)
13BT, not reliable

Choose your poison.

Dave

_________________
USA Daily: 2014 Nissan GT-R, very minor modifications for the track
USA Project: 1978 280Z, minor suspension upgrades, VK56DE conversion in progress. SOLD
AUS Race Car: 1973 240Z, L28ET, Autronic, GT35R. SOLD
AUS Project: 1972 1600, 3200km old S15 SR20DET, ground up rebuild. SOLD

if i had my time over i'd have gone an FJ, but i found a Z18 at the right price and i figured it would be the easiest conversion. but in all honesty by the time you put in new fuel lines, intercooler and lines, radiator and lines, turbo and lines, it really wouldn't have taken much more work to put in an SR or FJ.

they can all make similar power, like dave says, choose your poison.

FJ - old skool brute power, bulletproof
Z18 - old skool, still makes decent power
CA - smoooooooooth, more 'high-tech' than an SR, but capacity disadvantage
SR - join the crowd, but there's a reason everyone does it
RB - a masochist's delight - only do this if you really want to be different and want the hardest conversion possible, lack of torque, and will only make similar power to an SR. a full-house FJ will annihilate it.
13BT - dunno much about rotors, but i know they make shitloads of power

and without being a rude prick, if you have to ask, you probly can't do it. just pick an engine, any engine, and figure it out as you go

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1971 Datsun 1600 - Z18ET
1996 Suzuki RGV250 VJ22
1996 Suzuki RGV250 SP VJ23

Just to pick a single point out of the advice given so far, you asked for something economical as well. That rules out a 13bt at the very least, and pretty much any turbo engine if you're looking at running big boost.

You listed SR20DE as an option - it'd easily be the most economical out of all the options provided, and still have more get up and go than the L16...

Otherwise, what everyone else has written is a pretty good summing up.

oh i'm dying to hear the reasoning behind this, dave...

rotors aren't unreliable. the meatheads driving them are.

these same meatheads are quite capable of blowing up ANYTHING put under their right foot.

my 13B was 100thou old when i bought it, and i leant on it everyday after for 3 years and another 160thou before it needed resealing.

why? because i followed my warm up procedure to Mazda's letter, used quality mineral oil and filters every 5000ks and STUCK TO A FUKCING REDLINE.

winding 20psi into an unprepped 13B import engine and expecting to run 11s all day will result in that "grind-ping-pop" sound that so many misinformed rotor owners experience at the drags.

if you put 20psi into a wreckers CA18DET and launched at 7000 with flat changes for 400m for a whole night trying to run 11s you too would end up with an engine bay full of hot shiny bits.

so please - no more about rotors being unreliable unless you have

a) owned one and
b) driven one and
c) followed the correct operating procedures.

then AND ONLY THEN will you be in the boat to criticise them with any kind of merit.

that said, if you want fuel economy + a rotor, the 13B six port engine is a good one to use with a jetted 600 vac sec 4barrell edelbrock carby.

about the same outrigth power as street port (extend port) but with much more "round town" economy than an RX7 12A (and subsequently less primary power - open up the secondaries though and YEEEEHAAAAH).

anything other than that combo and you might as well throw the word "economy" out the window.

_________________
frankenstein projects R us.

The Republic of Western Australia -
Propping up the Nation's Economy since 1901.

They still sound like sh!t, tho.

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Recommended trading: datto-510

maybe it's just me, i like the sound of a brapping bridgeport on full noise

thay sownd ful hektic ay bro'

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frankenstein projects R us.

The Republic of Western Australia -
Propping up the Nation's Economy since 1901.

thats the sorta info i was after rather than a stupid forum search. I was just putting the question up to see wat peoples thoughts were on engines. i was thinkin SR20DET conversion maybe next year if i have the moolah.
Cheers for the help and a decent response.

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Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something.

Ive seen a few VG30's in 1600s

But thats economy out the window
When you think about it, everyone has done everything, so its hard to be different. Try a RWD VTEC and rev it to 11k Or a EVO motor and make it 4WD? Or Suby flat 4 and have that H3KtiC burble

And if you have a car like that with any one of the engines put foward so far... fark fuel economy, you'll be driving it hard everywhere you go


And for the record, Rotors do sound good and are reliable if you know what your doing

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Chris.
Lost the Datto bug... But ill still hang around here and annoy you all!

The reason you got a "forum search" was because things like this have been answered a hundred fuking times dipshit.

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Nissan Bluebird - S15 SR20DET
Nissan R30 Skyline - RB26DEmassiveT Project car
Nissan R32 GTR - RB26DETT

pro,

I just read http://www.rx7uknet.dircon.co.uk/rx8reliable.html, the thing is that its apparently a high-stressed engine. Maybe if you had a 5.0L rotary it would be different, but its 1.3L. Would you consider this engine: http://www.datrats.com.au/A13RACE.htm ? If not, then thats all the reasons why you shouldn't bother with an 13BT. I don't see that going down in displacement and asking for more power is going to make it more reliable.

Dave

_________________
USA Daily: 2014 Nissan GT-R, very minor modifications for the track
USA Project: 1978 280Z, minor suspension upgrades, VK56DE conversion in progress. SOLD
AUS Race Car: 1973 240Z, L28ET, Autronic, GT35R. SOLD
AUS Project: 1972 1600, 3200km old S15 SR20DET, ground up rebuild. SOLD