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PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2011 12:52 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 01, 2004 10:13 pm
Posts: 82
Location: sydney
WARNING essay ahead....

Can i throw in some thoughts and questions Dat04?
From the sounds of it you havent dont too much drag racing in a 510?
Also have you done much driving in a 510?
Basically these q's lead too what you want out of the car. It sounds like you want to do a bit of draging.
Sure its great to talk about exact spring rates to suit this and that.
But how often do you actually push the limits in these different situations?
Do you want a comprimise spring rate for all or biased towards draging? Or are you happy to spend $150 more and 30mins each time you want to change springs?
I suggest the latter.

Next on the agenda...
I disagree with the numbers Troy has told you.
He is saying 250-275 drag coilover and 200-225 street coilover.
He says it will be drifter style with the 275's in.
By drifter style i assume he means the back will want to step out all the time?????
This makes no sense and is very relative to your front setup.

My experience with standard type rear springs with the 50 odd passes ive done are the tyres are very much the limiting factor.
I am yet to do a pass with drag rubber so cant comment if thats what you are going for.
The softest tallest ie standars 180b or 1600 springs have netted me the best 60' times. This is with camber adjusted for less neg, so the static camber is +ve and sweeps through neutral to neg at launch.

I run 300lb front springs and 1000lb rear for circuit. This gives the best balance for turnin etc track or street, but is very bumby on the street.
When in not circuiting i used to put 700lb rears back in and was a great comprimise on the street.
Now i just leave either the 1000's in if ive been circuiting until i drag it, then i leave stock springs in until i cuircuit it again.
On the street with the stock springs its a bit floaty but i just drive a to b these days and dont really try and hook it in at speed...

With full slicks or decent drag radials i imagine that harder rear springs with static neutral or slight +ve camber would be of benefit at the strip.
On the street if your making 200+rwkw the softer setup will give you more traction for sure.
I did a few tuning pulls the other day in 3rd before Wakefield track day with the stock springs. 2500rpm flat road floor it. Pulled through the boost transition fine.
Then i put the 1000lb springs in and on the same bit of road, same tyres (225/50/15 Kuhmo v700) and it lit the rears consistantly coming onto boost.

Ive got some m/t 225/50/15 radials that will hit the track in the next few weeks and ill be running stock springs, ill keep you posted.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2011 11:06 pm 
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Location: over crowded Sydney
- Never done drag work in an IRS rear end,
- This 510 I'm building is my second one, but again no drag work in first 510.
- more than happy to swap springs out at WSID just to race, as its only a 10 min job.
- I intend to push this car fairly hard at the strip only. the FJ will easily pump out 400hp at wheels, and I'm chasing a mid to high ten second time slip.
- I'm only posting up hard on this thread to get advice. the obvious cost setup in changing out springs and shocks continuously until a happy medium is found is not really in my budget. Would rather waffle on and ask a million questions than spend tons of cash in r & d.
- I can't comment on the advice troy gave me. Hes obviously got a lot of experience with 510's, but whether he has good advice with dragging or understands want I want out of my car is open to question.
- I'm only ever planning to run drag radials when going to WSID, so hopefully tyre issues will be limited.

One thing I have learnt so far, thanks to members like you, is how much rear camber (if any) to use. Once I get the spring rate down pat, I think my launches and 60ft times will become a lot quicker.

If you could keep me postsed on how you go with setups, that would be appreciated.

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1600 with FJ20 & Simmons. something different.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2011 10:07 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 14, 2009 10:21 pm
Posts: 69
Location: Melbourne
Picked up my parcel today from Techno Toy Tuning. Got to say the quality "looks" fantastic. I'll try and get the rear coil overs in this weekend and the bump steer spacers and tension control rods next weekend. I have attached pics below.


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Another Datsun Project...........
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2011 9:34 pm 
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Location: over crowded Sydney
i already have T3 castor rods. they look good.
just a suggestion, you may want to consider re powder coating the red bits as the arms will stick out like dog balls when looking front on at the car. i did mine gloss black....

[ img ]

[ img ]

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1600 with FJ20 & Simmons. something different.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2011 10:15 pm 
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Posts: 49
Hey DATO4, can you tell me are these mods all legal in NSW?? Very horny lookin BTW!!!!!

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1972 Datsun 1600 4 door, SR20DET
1970 Datsun 510 2door import (USA) L20b (4 now)
1969 Camaro 454
1955 Chev 2Door 383
1932 Ford Roadster 350
1977 Triumph Bonneville

And a Garage thats NOT big enough!!!


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2011 11:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 07, 2009 6:03 pm
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Location: Metung, Victoria
DATO4 wrote:
[ img ]
looks like your 1600 is hidden in a batcave or some shiiite haha

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1979 Datsun Stanza Coupe
1979 Datsun Stanza Coupe Project
1979 Datsun Stanza GX
1982 Datsun Stanza GX
1966 Nissan Cedric Custom Six
1972 Volkswagen Beetle
1974 Toyota Landcruiser Stallion (SWB)
EziAutoParts


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2011 7:02 am 
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Location: over crowded Sydney
^ LOL. Feels like a bat cave sometimes.

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1600 with FJ20 & Simmons. something different.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2011 7:09 am 
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Location: over crowded Sydney
bad016 wrote:
Hey DATO4, can you tell me are these mods all legal in NSW?? Very horny lookin BTW!!!!!
Thanks mate :thumbsup:
I don't see why it would be illegal? You're not changing the structure or factory design, just like if you bought an adjustable panhard rod or adjustable sway bar kit for a commodore.
They're in there now, they not coming out!

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1600 with FJ20 & Simmons. something different.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2011 8:21 am 
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OK, sweet!! Deff looks very niiiice!!

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1972 Datsun 1600 4 door, SR20DET
1970 Datsun 510 2door import (USA) L20b (4 now)
1969 Camaro 454
1955 Chev 2Door 383
1932 Ford Roadster 350
1977 Triumph Bonneville

And a Garage thats NOT big enough!!!


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2011 2:08 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2011 7:16 pm
Posts: 41
I need a tissue..... drooling to much


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2011 4:05 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 04, 2003 10:18 am
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Location: sydney
None of it is legal in NSW without engineer's report on the specific components used including strength testing etc.

Sure you aren't changing the basic suspension design but the components are all manufactured differently. Spherical rod ends like those on the castor rods cannot be engineered at all and are completely illegal for road use.

_________________
1971 Datsun P510 SR20DET 276 rwkW
2005 Mercedes AMG E55 350 kW
1969 Datsun P510 L20B EFI 95 rwkW
1975 Ford XB Fairmont GS Wagon 179rwhp
1980 Escort Van SR20DET unfinished
2002 Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa 185hp


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2011 4:13 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 18, 2008 2:47 pm
Posts: 49
Thanx 4 the tip turbovan! Wasnt quite sure??

_________________
1972 Datsun 1600 4 door, SR20DET
1970 Datsun 510 2door import (USA) L20b (4 now)
1969 Camaro 454
1955 Chev 2Door 383
1932 Ford Roadster 350
1977 Triumph Bonneville

And a Garage thats NOT big enough!!!


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2011 10:35 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 02, 2009 9:48 pm
Posts: 797
Location: over crowded Sydney
turbovan wrote:
None of it is legal in NSW without engineer's report on the specific components used including strength testing etc.

Sure you aren't changing the basic suspension design but the components are all manufactured differently. Spherical rod ends like those on the castor rods cannot be engineered at all and are completely illegal for road use.
all depends on who engineers your car :giggle:

so really, just engineer and register your car with standard parts, then switch to the goodies.

_________________
1600 with FJ20 & Simmons. something different.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2011 11:34 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 03, 2006 12:05 am
Posts: 92
Location: Brisbane
Hi,
I might have missed something but do the rear coil overs mount in the old rear spring position on the arm with a turret fabricated above them in the shell, or do they just mount to the shocky mount locations. Personally I wouldn't like the latter because the standard shock mounts weren't designed to take weight of the rear of the car. Just shocky forces.

Cheers
Kev


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 12:03 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 11:11 pm
Posts: 2240
DATO4 wrote:
turbovan wrote:
None of it is legal in NSW without engineer's report on the specific components used including strength testing etc.

Sure you aren't changing the basic suspension design but the components are all manufactured differently. Spherical rod ends like those on the castor rods cannot be engineered at all and are completely illegal for road use.
all depends on who engineers your car :giggle:

so really, just engineer and register your car with standard parts, then switch to the goodies.
That's fine until you kill someone on the road and they go over your car.


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