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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2009 7:16 am 
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Location: brisvegas
anybody got any photos of the whiteline/selby rally style (above the cross member) rear sway bars fitted ?


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 9:37 pm 
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Location: Redondo Beach.
Group3JDatsun wrote:
No worries; here's a shot of mine:

[ img ]
Wow!
Somehow I lost track of this thread.

Thanks for the photo. Nice set up. :thumbsup:

I am installing my 180B rear bar within this days. I believe the set up is quite different. It is a ADDCO rear bar.

Perhaps I can get an ADDCO diagram in the mean while, I will check. real photo of bar installed will follow. Here is a shot of the bar and components.

[ img ]

Here, the sway bar:

[ img ]

Sorry, these two shots can not be enlarged, at least my limited computer skills do not permit :(

Front stock bar and aftermarket one inch :

[ img ]
[ img ]

Soon photos of the rear bar mounted.

Cheers.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 11:23 pm 
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Group3JDatsun wrote:
No worries; here's a shot of mine:

[ img ]
just had a look at this picture. Anyone else notice something strange about it?

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 12:28 am 
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Location: Melbourne Eastern
You mean the braided brake lines not properly attached to the trailing arms yet?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 3:22 am 
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the axles look like they will come very close to sway bay once you have on the ground again. how much clearance is there?

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 11:03 pm 
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DATO4 wrote:
the axles look like they will come very close to sway bay once you have on the ground again. how much clearance is there?
maybe thats why they had to fit the drive shafts in backwards!!!!

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 3:51 pm 
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Location: ACT
I've had to remove my selby/whiteline rear swaybar as the car is too low. I had it mounted under the shafts previously, but now have datsport 1100lb springs and it doesnt fit :( (That said, it shouldnt be as necessary with the heavier springs)


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 9:04 am 
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Tyrie wrote:
I've had to remove my selby/whiteline rear swaybar as the car is too low. I had it mounted under the shafts previously, but now have datsport 1100lb springs and it doesnt fit :( (That said, it shouldnt be as necessary with the heavier springs)
you should not need to run a rear bar with 1100s.
If turn in is not quick enough , just crank in a bit more rear toe.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 10:43 am 
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Correct me if Im wrong, but the way I imagine it, mid corner the stiff 1100s will stop the outside from squatting but wont stop the inside from lifting off the spring. A swaybar would maybe help tie the in-side down...?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 1:12 pm 
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Tyrie wrote:
Correct me if Im wrong, but the way I imagine it, mid corner the stiff 1100s will stop the outside from squatting but wont stop the inside from lifting off the spring. A swaybar would maybe help tie the in-side down...?
Past US high speed slalom champion has reached the same conclusion that if the shocker/springs are right then a rear bar
will SLOW you down.
If I felt that rear bars were the way to go I would have been making custom rear bars years ago.
All the bars I have seen & fitted do not fit correctly or require modification.
If you have your heart set on a rear bar go for it. :cheers

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 10:33 am 
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What's a 2nd hand Whiteline swaybar for a 1600 worth theses days? I've got one collecting dust

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:40 am 
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Virtually worthless, i"ll give you $20. :wink:

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 10:09 pm 
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blind clown wrote:
DATO4 wrote:
the axles look like they will come very close to sway bay once you have on the ground again. how much clearance is there?
maybe thats why they had to fit the drive shafts in backwards!!!!
Close; its an old trick from the Bible to give a bit more clearance between the half shaft and the little bit of box section that runs just near the diff flange. My car's not as low as the Transam cars, however I figured it was a cheap and effective way to ensure clearance. It was actually born out after I managed to crush one of those braided lines between the top of the A-arm (where it sat at the time) and the chassis during a test session at Eastern Creek. I suspect it was happening through Turn 1, as the car started handling unpredictably if I held it flat (essentially not giving the rear any opportunity to unload).

In terms of the sway bar clearance, it actually follows a _reasonably_ similar arc to the half shafts. Still requires a bit of tuning, but its a simple enough process of remove the springs and wind the rear arm through its range of travel, adjusting the the sway bar turn buckles to get the necessary clearance. However once its set, its not a drama as the bar is obviously fixed to the arms.
Clearance sits around 10mm to the shaft.

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