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PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 7:40 pm 
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As per title..

Short question and the long question...

SHORT QUESTION:
Does anyone have any tricks or ways to make it easier.. to put the rear a-arms back onto the crossmember of a datsun 1600 with datsport ARC...

LONG QUESTION/STORY:
I've just fit my own datsport adjustable rear crossmember kit and as I thought, there is not much tolerance when welding on the slotted tabs, as to how far they can flex to let the bushes and a-arms be pushed back onto the crossmember (between the slots). The factory one (I assume) acts like the rear crossmember diff mounting tabs where the diff bolts to it, the tabs are flexible enough to spring back open a few mm, or not even that, but enough to let you slide the (diff in) and the (a-arms in) then when you tighten the bolts the tabs flex enough to give a tight clamp.

With the datsport, they are 5mm thick steel so there is no chance of that happening. The rear a-arms are pretty hard to put back in. My only thought is to grind off a bit of the bush and inner metal sleeve in the bush (about less than half a mm, just enough for it to slide in), because that seems to be hitting and not sliding into the datsport tabs. So, tomorrow, before I go do that and spend all day frustrated and swearing, does anyone have any tricks or hints as to what to do... or any other ideas?

Thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 10:14 pm 
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check the sleeves for fit first, if the brackets have "pulled when welding,
you can put a block of hard wood against the outer edge of the braket and give it a clout with a large hammer.
depends which brand of bushes you are using as some are not correct length.
compare with caliper original inner sleeve with the ones you have.
correct by linishing the sleeve or clouting the bracket.
then hang your arm off the shocker & push up into position.
this is a one man job & very easy.

http://datsport.com/Rear_crossmember___rear_arms.html

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 11:49 pm 
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Thanks baz

The bushes were in there before I bought the kit, so they do fit..

I might just sand or grind a tiny bit off the bushes and inner sleeve to allow them to fit.

I'll try bolting it to the shock and lift it up, I was just trying to push it into place as it was. however im on the ground and it probably wont make much difference.. its resting on the ground at the moment

Thanks again.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 10:14 am 
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I sympathise with your fitment, and found the BEST way is to SWEAR repeatedly. Then before you know it, they are in. Drinking helps too. :lol:

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 12:51 pm 
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they'll fit
i'll swear
spend all day on this and they'll go in

also glad your sig has changed from 99% to that..


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 5:14 pm 
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come on guys its only 10mins a side full install. :P

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 5:18 pm 
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Baz, you probably know better swear words... :lol:

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 12:17 am 
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The a-arms went in pretty easily on the Datsport crossmemeber I bought. However, getting the crossmember in used every swear word I know including new ones composed for the job.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 7:46 am 
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well, theyre in..... took a little while

Baz, if you read this, or anyone else, what are the actual ranges of camber and toe adjustments for a typical lowered 1600 with the datsport ARC kit?


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 1:39 pm 
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Initial wheel alignment specifications.
Toe in 1mm each side total 2mm. referenced from the front. Camber 0.5 neg. This setting is for high performance street. Will give increased traction for high output engines.

For racing use, or fine tuning for street.
Increasing the toe will increase turn in. Excessive toe will induce oversteer. Best to experiment by increasing toe each side a small amount, ie quarter turn per time untill desired handling is achieved. Then recheck settings on aligner & record for reference. Note! check tightness of adjuster bolts frequently until desired settings are finalised. Then loctite nuts on adjuster bolts for security. Toe in for racing can be up to 12mm total. Increasing neg camber will decrease toe in. So if turn in is too quick increase neg camber a tad.

this info is now on the fitting instructions.

http://datsport.com/fitting-instruction ... tions.html

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 2:43 pm 
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Baz, i know that reduced camber is great for drag racing as more tyre on the road etc etc,

but what are the consequences of having excessive rear camber on a lowered, low powered Lseries car being driven on the street through the hills and occasional fang?

Basically what are the handling problems with a seriously lowered car without your kit. (not for drag racing).

Cheers, chris

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 4:24 pm 
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chris1818 wrote:
what are the consequences of having excessive rear camber on a lowered, low powered Lseries car being driven on the street through the hills and occasional fang?
Tyre wear on the inside edges...


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 7:19 pm 
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i just swapped over to the kit

major tyre wear on inside tyre, from 50% new to bald in a few thousand km's from the excessive toe out. cost of tyres = ??? 300-400 every so often?

The other thing from my limited knowledge of car handling and suspension talk, is major oversteer, you will turn into a corner and you can feel the back of the car trying to turn aswell, like its being steered from the back. Have you ever riden a bike backwards, its kinda like that in a way.... It feels crap :)


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 7:24 pm 
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Also baz,
Thanks for the info thats more than I wanted! :)
What are the limits that the kit can take the wheels to, ie, whats the MOST negative camber you can run, and whats the most toe IN you can run with these kits. I know it depends on how low your car is etc but for a typically lowered 1600... do you have any numbers?


This is kinda unrelated to the datsport stuff but,
How do wheel aligners get the wheel alignment you want, camber and toe wise, on the rear wheels, when the car will have to be in the air, and the readings they receive are with the wheels at full droop, so when they put car back on the ground, the settings will all be changed again? Do they just keep trying trial and error until they get it right on the ground? For the front wheel alignment i suppose it wouldn't change wit hthe wheels in the air so once it's right in the air, the wheels will have the same toe on the ground?

Cheers


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 11:54 am 
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1onenil0 wrote:
Also baz,
Thanks for the info thats more than I wanted! :)
What are the limits that the kit can take the wheels to, ie, whats the MOST negative camber you can run, and whats the most toe IN you can run with these kits. I know it depends on how low your car is etc but for a typically lowered 1600... do you have any numbers?


This is kinda unrelated to the datsport stuff but,
How do wheel aligners get the wheel alignment you want, camber and toe wise, on the rear wheels, when the car will have to be in the air, and the readings they receive are with the wheels at full droop, so when they put car back on the ground, the settings will all be changed again? Do they just keep trying trial and error until they get it right on the ground? For the front wheel alignment I suppose it wouldn't change wit hthe wheels in the air so once it's right in the air, the wheels will have the same toe on the ground?

Cheers
4 wheel alignments are done on a 4 post hoist. all wheels are level.
front & rear wheels are referenced.
This is the main reason we changed our adjusters years ago.
Levering and trying to rotate cam adjusters was a fail as this kept altering the settings
as the car was lifted or pulled down when turning the cams.
Just make sure the place you get the alignment has 4 wheel alignment capability.

re the max/min settings. no we do not have these as you said it varies due to ride height.
No probs tho with sane settings.

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www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT


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