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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 10:16 am 
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Posts: 1423
Location: ACT
is it 1.9mm toe in or 1.9mm toe out? I assumed negative meant toe out?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 8:04 am 
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Location: Narangba, Brisbane
Sorry for the hijack, but where do you get your rear swaybars?

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 3:23 pm 
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Location: ACT
got mine off a member on here, but its a whiteline/selbys job.

So I'm going to get another alignment this week, this time I will tell them how I want it set up, was thinking:

Camber: 3-3.5degrees (fixed)
Caster: 4.25deg left, 4deg right
toe: 1mm out

sound reasonable?


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 6:04 pm 
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Posts: 113
Looks reasonable IMHO.

We prevoiusly ran:

Front:
Camber: 3-4 degrees neg, depending on track and conditions
Caster: 4.5 positive castor
Toe: 1.5mm out total

Rear:
Camber: 1.2 degrees neg
Toe: 2mm in total

New suspension and modified cross members mean some of that may change marginally.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 6:24 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 17, 2004 2:51 pm
Posts: 3521
Location: Frankston Vic
I'm runing
Front
Camber -3.5 each side
Castor +4.5 a side
toe 0 total

Rear
Camber 0 both sides
toe 2 in total

Hooks up great and turns in great.
I find over 210 KPH the front gets a bit skatey but that could also be body lift due to no aero on the front.

If you are going to a local shop that does daily drivers you are going to the wrong shop. You need to go to a track alignment specialist. You will find it may take a few times to find you preferred setup to suit your driving style but, going to a place that deals with race cars is the key to a good alignment.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 6:54 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 29, 2003 5:21 pm
Posts: 706
Location: Perth
A few things I have found with my car.......

Toe - depends on how the car turns. If you dont have any understeer, its actually nice to run some toe in. 1-2mm either side (2-4mm total) is good. Reason for this is, as the cars front end squats under braking the the wheels will toe out. So if you start with some toe in you can get it nice and straight under heavy braking. If however you are suffering from lack of turn in (understeer), then some toe out can certainly help.

Camber - depends on the tyre. I used to run 5 degrees with the A032 Yokohamas, but when we went to the A048's only needed 4 degrees at the most. Again, the less camber you run the better the car feels under brakes and less chance of locking a front under heavy braking. Best way to tell is with a pyromoter immediately after you come off the track. Measure in three places across each tyre (Inside edge, centre & outside edge). If the inside edge is higher than the rest you may have too much camber, if the outside is higher, you may need more camber. If the centre is higher your tyre pressure is too high.

Castor - The sunny has 6.2 degrees of castor. If i drive at any less than 90% the front end will shake so bad it has actually ripped the wheel out of my hands! Castor however in a lot ways is more beneficial than camber, so the more you can run the better (but the steering gets bloody heavy at slow speeds). On the street though, you probably want to stay around 4-5 degrees if you can get away with it.

Lastly, don't forget about your tyre pressures. Measure them as soon as possible after coming in off the track. You will find they work best at a certain pressure. For the A048s on my car 32psi was the magic number. If they were higher when I came off the track I would adjust them while they are still hot. This meant that the car a bit sloppy when you first hit the track next time round, but when the pressures come up it was great. After you have you get them to the right point, check them once they have gone cold (next morning is best) then you can right the numbers down as a starting point for the next time you attaned the track.

Hope that helps,

Mark.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 9:49 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 17, 2004 2:51 pm
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Location: Frankston Vic
Top advise datman :D

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 1:47 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 9:50 am
Posts: 1423
Location: ACT
I called the highly recommended race car aligner here in canberra and he said he didnt want to touch it, too modified. local jax ftw


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 2:19 pm 
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Location: Frankston Vic
What a pussy....

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 5:29 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 23, 2009 9:51 pm
Posts: 31
Location: Albury nsw
Datman55 has it spot on
when setting toe on the front you also have to take into account the flex in the rubber bushings unless your front end is rose jointed. As the car speeds up the wheels start to toe out from the force applied to the wheels going forward, so a bit of toe in is better.
Also on the rear you never want toe out only toe in.
Hope this helps


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