Hi all... I'm putting in some better front springs and figure while i'm doing that i might replace the strut inserts too if they are knackered. Just wondering how to tell if the insert is stuffed. I currently have Monroe Gas strut inserts in them. I know when I replaced some struts in another 1600 a few years ago, which still had the original oil type shocks, when i removed the spring the shock rod just dropped straight down and i knew it really was stuffed. This time i have gas inserts, when compressed they don't slowly spring out like other inserts have in the passed does this mean they are no good?
Also do manufacturers tend to stamp dates of manufacture on their strut inserts? Mine has "251090" stamped into them and i thought maybe that is a DOM, and if so means they are 20 years old.

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That number is more likely a Part Number, however it is no longer a relevant P/N.
The 510 does take 25-xxxx inserts so they have probably been superseded.
If you don't know how old they are, or if you doubt there effectiveness, just get some replacements.
Then at least everything will be new and predictable
While you have it all apart, clean and re-lube the thrust bearing[s] at the top of the unit and fit new bump stops and bellows.
New wheel bearings could be advisable too.
To prevent the inside of the strut tube from corroding, I suggest you pour some old sump oil for example, into the tube then insert the cartridge.
What gets pumped out is surplus and what remains should coat the tube and cartridge nicely.

Oh, I'm very good at spending other peoples money

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Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

Thanks Nissanman you always come through with the goods

Just a few questions... Does every strut require a thrust bearing up top? Because when i dismantled my strut it didn't have one and i was wondering about it.... i just thought maybe they didn't run them way back when. Also is the bump stop the thing that sits inside the dust protector? because they looked good, no need for newies... And yes, i will be fitting new wheel bearings as they were pretty far gone too and the grease around them was black.

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You got it. If gas ones compress and dont extend back again they are NFG.
New gas shocks straight out the box are hard to compress enough just to get the piston retaining clip off, so if yours dont extend out id buy new ones.
If you dont replace them you'll have a hard time when you reassemble the strut and springtop getting the nut back on the top of the shock...

Yeah I recon i'll be replcing them. I am in the middle of trying to sort out some steering and handling problems so i'm best to replace everything I can to eliminate things as I go.

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The thrust bearing is located in the strut top or bearing plate.
The upper spring seat is removeable and then you will see the bearing.


P/N 3 is the critical bit.
I wouldn't like to buy one but usually they will be fine to re-use.
Just check for nice smooth rotation and re-lube it with HTB wheel bearing grease

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Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

yeh my struts are definately missing the bearing. will hafta grab them from another set of struts i have.

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With no bearings up top I am not surprised

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Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

Yeah neither... Glad I found it now before i went any further.

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So, how go you with your steering/suspension re-build

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Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

Still waiting on getting some strut inserts. Called pedders and got quoted $193 each, does this round right? I was expecting that for a pair not each. So yeah haven't done it yet, but will soon. Started a new job and working 60 hours a week so little time but plenty of money coming my way

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Hey, if you're replacing the strut inserts and you say you've got lots of money, don't get cheap dampers!!!!! Get Konis or Bilsteins or something instead of Pedders.... And if you're using lowered stiffer springs you MUST use stiffer dampers to control the springs (you probably already knew that). Also remember that the damping rate also affects body roll characteristics (as well as just stopping the springs from bouncing up and down!)

I got some Koni to use up front, very nice....
the pedders are ok for a daily driver, but not realy suited to 'bottle o runs'


which is when the bottlo shuts in 3 min and youre 12.5km away, then the police give chase (with lights off) and think your car is stolen so they call for backup, then corner you in the bottlo and put you in handcuffs and then they get mad woindering why you are laughing at them.... cos you just unknowingly out run 3x VT commodore pursuit cars in a 'stock' mitsu Sigma.... with peter wherrit stickers for some reason haha (true story)

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R30 skyline hatch TURBO project

she's not a race car. Far from it. Just wanna get it driving in straight kind.

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I personally wouldnt pay that much for pedders, I got given an old set of konis and had them reco'ed and valved to suite my needs for $300 see if anyone has some second handies?? and i just dont like pedders, charged me $60 for 10 min labour from memory a new set of Koni's were 600 or was it 900 from top proformence

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My garage:
180b sedan daily (needs some TLC)
180B sss (under restoration)
180b Wagon daily
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