Hi all,

so my shell is jacked right up on stands, with no suspension, drive train, lines etc etc. Nuthin, nada, zip.
Adam (sutho510) picked all suspension up today, making some much needed room, thanks mate.

Anyway, my thread is about asking for advice from anyone who have done ground up rebuilds. I'm starting with my suspension this week, i.e;
- x member
- k frame
- front coilovers
- castor rods
- control arms
- traling arms
- maybe the R200 if i have time

Apart from the very useful pages supplied by Datsport, on how to install certain items, anyone got any extra hints & tips on how to install these items, or more importantly..what not to do??

Any notes would be greatly appreciated

_________________
1600 with FJ20 & Simmons. something different.

- With when doing up any fasteners that involve bushes tighten them fully when the car is on the ground. Or jack up the suspension on each corner and tighten every thing up. I have a set of ramps that I place under the wheels to allow me to get under the car to do this kind of work.

-Don't do stuff up super tight.Use locktie of the important stuff (as in if the bolts fall out you will crash kind of stuff).

- With your new shocks before you install them give them a few full compressions.

- Make sure you put your springs in the right way up (especially progressive springs). Sometimes some springs are supposed to be installed with the writing upside down.

-Clean up any used bolts and threads with a wire wheel on your bench grinder

- Use plenty of grease and make sure everything is clean.

-If you are not sure about something ask.

_________________
1928 Model A CC Pickup

Could I persuade you to run your fuel and brake lines before you bolt the rear suspension in? Makes it a hell of a lot easier to get around the K frame. I just bolted my rear suspension in today. Mine is up on the rotisserie but height wise not too dissimilar from on stands. Assemble the swing arms onto the K-frame and lift the whole thing with a trolley jack onto the Mounting points in one move. Don't put the diff in yet. SO very much easier doing it this way, then tighten it all HARD once its seated on the ground.

Then do the springs. Rears need to be rotated so they sit in the saddle properly (the bottom Coils where its uneven should be on the inside of the A frame saddle), and the machined flat part of the spring is on top with rubber perch. Then tighten up your bump stops and fit your shocks.
Then run your hand brake cables or at least get them roughly right. Should see you set for easier time in the rear suspension department.

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

i bought a pipe bender and flaring tool for the fuel lines. dont know how i'm going to go with it.

bend....mount....look and become unhappy...remove....re bend....re mount....think again (x40)

RJB510...really critical that k frame goes in after lines?? what dramas did you have?

_________________
1600 with FJ20 & Simmons. something different.

The lines run under the rear x member and it can be a bitch sometimes to get them right.
Another tip would be to buy new nylock nuts as most of them you have from your under your car are probably the original nuts. A 40+ year old nylock isn’t going to perform how it is supposed to. Rip them out and work out how many you need, sizes and threads etc. Head down to a bolt supplier. They don't cost much and it’s the piece of mind when doing quick speeds that everything is well secured.

_________________
1928 Model A CC Pickup

I'll get a photo today and show you. Its a pain in the ass if you don't do it first. Bending 3/8th Fuel line is not exactly easy even when the car is on its side. Let alone lying underneath it and trying to fit around suspension components...

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

Check pic of the fuel lines and brake lines and how i've run mine, You might choose to do it differently, but trying to get these into position after fitting the suspension will leave you with more than a headache i'd imagine...

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

yeah righteo then. glad i started this thread. thanks

btw, where did you get those line clamps??

_________________
1600 with FJ20 & Simmons. something different.

I made them.

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18