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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 12:31 pm 
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Location: Perth WA
Hi,
As per heading: My charge light is coming on after about 20 min of driving.
It does not come on under acceleration, only when I back off.
I have changed the battery, as It was time for a change,
I have changed Positive and Negative Battery terminals as I found the Negative one had cracked.
Battery mounted in boot in secure box
This problem has never occurred before.
Could it be an Earth, resistor or alternator issue??
I have searched the forum, finding that it may be an earth issue?

Any thoughts before I go tearing bits apart and have to get a professional in would be greatly appreciated!
With thanks :D

_________________
2010 Landcruiser (work)
06 CAT24M Grader - daily
2011 White Subaru Impreza - daily
70 1600 White Old School with L18
77 200B SX Stock Blue retired to pickapart VIC


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 12:47 pm 
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Location: Cairns
do you have a multimeter? test the voltage going in and coming out off the alternator


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 12:50 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2011 8:22 pm
Posts: 54
datblusx wrote:
Hi,
As per heading: My charge light is coming on after about 20 min of driving.
It does not come on under acceleration, only when I back off.
I have changed the battery, as It was time for a change,
I have changed Positive and Negative Battery terminals as I found the Negative one had cracked.
Battery mounted in boot in secure box
This problem has never occurred before.
Could it be an Earth, resistor or alternator issue??
I have searched the forum, finding that it may be an earth issue?

Any thoughts before I go tearing bits apart and have to get a professional in would be greatly appreciated!
With thanks :D
If the belts not loose or stretched only drive for 15 minutes


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 1:08 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2003 4:58 pm
Posts: 2637
Location: Adelaide.
As mentioned ^ check what terminal voltage you have when the Charge lamp comes on.
Barring loose belts or electrical connections, I would suggest that the alternator brushes may be worn down resulting in lack of spring pressure on them.
That causes them to "float" and thus reduce the efficiency of the exciter winding, resulting in reduced output.
They should be easy to check and cheap to replace.
If not worn, then the next suspect would be the Voltage Regulator.
Do some voltage checks first though.
Battery voltage at rest - 12V.
..........."...."....... idle - 13.8-14.2V CONSISTENT!
..........."...."....... driving speed - 13.8 - 14.2V CONSISTENT!

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Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 2:48 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 12:04 pm
Posts: 171
Location: North Nowra/Winmalee
The same thing happened on my old magna. also when driving at night the head lights would not be as bright fading on and off and it was the alternator.

Cheers,

Richard.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 2:56 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 18, 2009 10:38 pm
Posts: 19
Location: Perth WA
Thank you all for your constructive and prompt replies.
Multimeter will be sourced,
Voltage checks to be done.
Cheers

_________________
2010 Landcruiser (work)
06 CAT24M Grader - daily
2011 White Subaru Impreza - daily
70 1600 White Old School with L18
77 200B SX Stock Blue retired to pickapart VIC


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 1:55 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2004 9:17 am
Posts: 807
Location: Covington,Wa USA
When Possible get a in car volt meter(NOT AMP METER) so you can always monitor the voltage while driving and under load with accessories on. it will give you a indication of whats breacking down way before the IGN light come on.

There are even some cheap plug in Cig light type ones now that work pretty good that I have used before

most like as Nissanman said its the brushes as Mine would do the same. Work at High RPM


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 1:28 am 
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Location: South Adelaide
banzai510(hainz) wrote:

most like as Nissanman said its the brushes as Mine would do the same.
My thoughts too.
To prove it, when your lights go dim while the car is running, tap the rear of alt body firmly with a rubber mallet etc and you should see the lights go bright again and the voltage jump up to ~13.5
Common fault...


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 9:39 pm 
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Location: Perth WA
Quick update:
Taking all the advice of you fine people on board I got my alternator serviced.
New brushes, bearings and regulator.
Fan belt tension to correct play

Re installed just now - CHG light coming on at idle :cry:
Battery voltage at idle 12.3 Volts consistent.

CHG light goes off at engine speed
Battery voltage at 2000rpm 12.3 Volts consistent.
This is obviously too low as it should be around 13 - 14V as Graeme posted before.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

_________________
2010 Landcruiser (work)
06 CAT24M Grader - daily
2011 White Subaru Impreza - daily
70 1600 White Old School with L18
77 200B SX Stock Blue retired to pickapart VIC


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 9:47 pm 
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Location: Adelaide.
Hmmmmm!
Is the alternator internally regulated or externally?
If It is EXTERNAL then that box may be schtuffed!
I have very recently been down this path.
My Voltage Regulator was epoxy sealed at the rear, cork gasket on the lid, totally corroded electronics on the inside!
Moral: As Archimedes once said, "You can seal moisture IN but you can't seal it OUT!"

_________________
Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 9:51 pm 
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Location: Perth WA
Nissanman wrote:
Hmmmmm!
Is the alternator internally regulated or externally?
If It is EXTERNAL then that box may be schtuffed!
I have very recently been down this path.
My Voltage Regulator was epoxy sealed at the rear, cork gasket on the lid, totally corroded electronics on the inside!
Moral: As Archimedes once said, "You can seal moisture IN but you can't seal it OUT!"
I sent you pics of my alternator Graeme, can you tell from that?

_________________
2010 Landcruiser (work)
06 CAT24M Grader - daily
2011 White Subaru Impreza - daily
70 1600 White Old School with L18
77 200B SX Stock Blue retired to pickapart VIC


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 10:31 pm 
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If you have a metal box mounted to the front of the rh side strut tower in the engine bay its most likely externally regulated.
That box is the regulator...
[ img ]


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 10:12 am 
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It looks like it is internally regulated, that black box on the rear looks to be the brush holder and regulator.
The voltages you quote are battery voltage, the alternator is not outputting.
Make sure the D+ connection is tight, that is the Charge Lamp lead.
If you have no joy, take the entire car to the place where the alternator was reconditioned and ask them to do a check of the charging system.
This should be a freebie.

_________________
Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 10:57 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 07, 2009 8:23 pm
Posts: 48
Just take off the small wire for the charge light, tap a wire from your +ve battery post to that terminal on the alt, then put the wire back on.


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