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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 2:14 pm 
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Location: South Adelaide
sounds like you bought a coil for nothing...


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 11:53 am 
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hey guys. im replacing my breaker points distributor with the bosch 2 bluebird electric dizzy into my original 180B. ive bought a new coil for it. I see you guys are talking about a module? what is the "module" for? I don't have one yet, do I need one for the stock 180b?
also coming out of my old distributor is a blue and a green wire that goes into my wiring loom. which ones + and which ones -?
ive got my coil wired up and ready to go, but I just need to know what wires to connect on the new dizzy and hopefully im all set to fire up again!
cheers guys!


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 12:18 pm 
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Location: Adelaide.
The HEI as fitted to the SII Bluey has an Electronic Module, black box, attached to the side of the distributor body.
Attachment:
[ attachment ]
910 S2 Bosch dist..JPG [ 112.64 KiB | Viewed 2520 times ]
Wiring diagrams are here, just do a search.
On the 610, there can be a 2 point distributor which uses the L [bLue] and G [Green] wiring via the 2-point relay contacts.
Attachment:
[ attachment ]
610 2 point distributor.jpg [ 161.82 KiB | Viewed 2520 times ]
You will need to remove the relay and bridge the BW [Black-White] wire to either the L or G wires and that then becomes the 12v Ignition Supply wire to the Module.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2013 4:26 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 16, 2012 11:52 am
Posts: 26
Hey guys. Well it's done it again. No spark. I've even ran a wire from the positive on the battery to the positive on the coil. It winds over but no go. Is it normal for the coil to be so hot considering I've only been driving it for ten minutes.
I don't need any resistor thingo do i

I'm out of ideas as to why its done it again. I replaced everything possible
Cheers


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 3:25 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 16, 2012 11:52 am
Posts: 26
Ok we'll after a closer look once home. The coil casing has split open from been so hot I'm guessing.
So I replaced the coil and its going now but after about 3500 rpm it misfires heaps. But it's a second hand coil so who knows till I try another new coil.

But is this normal to be frying coils and ignition modules like this. Or is there another option for a better ignition system

Cheers


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 4:38 pm 
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Location: Metung, Victoria
Have you checked the timing?
What kind of coil are you using, (HEC715?)

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 4:46 pm 
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Posts: 26
Yeah that's the one I'm using hec715. Just changed the coil this arvo. Ran great revved properly and everything. Took it round the block a few times and died again. Coil is burning hand hot again.

Timing is advanced due to worked engine. Can timing cause this ???
I'm out of ideas hey


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 3:05 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 16, 2012 11:52 am
Posts: 26
Hey guys, i repaced coil with a new hec715, and redid all my earth cables etc, with the car running i did a few checks with a multimeter and on the positive side of coil im getting 13.6 volts and the negative side up to 16.5 volts while revving engine, so something isnt right there.
any ideas


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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 10:21 pm 
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Location: straya
I thought green to - terminal and pink to +, and remove resistor just connecting the bg to the bw wires together that just ran through the resistor?

That's how it worked in my previous car


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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 7:36 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 16, 2012 11:52 am
Posts: 26
Is it possible to run a mec718 coil, as the parts guys suggested that this is a better coil, still have no idea why its burning coils, doing my head in


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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 8:00 pm 
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Location: straya
I was given the same but returned it for hec 715.

I called Bosch for the Specs and they said they only recommend the hec for the bluebird s2


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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 8:02 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 16, 2012 11:52 am
Posts: 26
Hey mate, just had a thought, when i removed the ballast resistor should i have joined those wires together as i know that i didnt, if so what are the wires to join together, the only wires im using is the black and white wire to + on coil for the ignition 12v supply, then the red wire to + and the green wire to -
cheers


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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 8:06 pm 
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Location: straya
Im not 100% sure but following the wiring diagram I can't see why not. Im trying to confirm the same thing


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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 8:10 pm 
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Location: straya
you still using the suppression capacitor?

Sure you.havent got a pod and neg wire touching on the terminals


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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 8:16 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 16, 2012 11:52 am
Posts: 26
yeah ive got the supprosor thing which is earthed then goes to + on coil, starting to think now that if the ballast resitor wires arent bridged that this could be the reason im frying coils and modules, is there an aftermarket ignition option for the l20b


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