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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 2:51 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 04, 2013 6:31 pm
Posts: 4
Hi,

Just purchased a Stanza Rally Car. Have just started rewiring it as it blew a fuse and broke down on its first drive home :lol:
Currently has battery mounted behind seats with heavy + lead to the starter and an isolator switch inline. Output lead from alternator runs smaller wire back to starter/battery connection. Alternator feed then goes into the factory wiring harness with similar smaller (original?) sized wiring.

Plan on running direct power to a fusepanel in cabin for intercom, tripmeter, uhf etc.
Another ignition switched fuse panel in cabin for fuel pumps, radiator fan, demister fan, heater etc.
Fuse panel under bonnet for items triggered off relays.
All other items will be run off the factory harness and fusepanel

- What sized alternator should I be running? What mounts to an L series?
- What sized wiring should I be running from alternator to starter/battery connection. I have some 4g and 8g wire.
- Where should I be running circuit breakers? Plan on running them for each extra fuse panel. One for the alternator feed to the factory wiring. What should I run for the alternator to battery connection?
- Could i use a relay triggered off the ignition to power up switched fuse panel in cabin. Or should i just mount Circuit breaker in Cabin and turn it off when not using.

Sorry for the lengthy post. Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers
Anthony


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 4:46 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 8:11 pm
Posts: 2121
Location: South Adelaide
Your alternator should be sized on the maximum current draw your car might use. This is dependent on the total load of all of your electrical items like lights, pumps and fans etc. This current draw is usually expressed as Amps.
There are alternator upgrade threads on the forum if you search for them.
Id look at wiring the alt with a cable that can hack the max current output of the alternator. This means if you pick an alt that puts out say 100Amps, then you will need to use a cable that can carry 100Amps of current without melting.
Try and position all of the fuses/breakers so that the cabling to the load (ie lights) is as short as possible. This will reduce voltage drop and save weight and money from excess cabling. Also fit breakers and fuses closest to where the power is coming from. This will ensure that the cable is protected from shorting for most of its distance running through the car.
Dont use a circuit breaker as a switch. Use a switch (can be your ignition switch) that triggers a relay to supply power to wherever you need it.
Search around on here more. There are some good discussions on alts and cabling to remote batteries. Also speak to an automotive electrician as they will give you plenty of ideas to run with.
Wiring is something you want to do properly so nothing melts, blows or catches on fire in your Datsun...


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 7:50 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2003 8:38 pm
Posts: 1135
Location: straya
Was this dangeros off ebay with rhe bike carbs


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 8:43 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 04, 2013 6:31 pm
Posts: 4
Thanks for replies. Bit more research to do. Attached a pic of car. No bike carbies on this one. Just a couple of Hitachi SU's.


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