Well I was fiting an electric dizzy today went to crank it no spark thought I might of had it hooked up the wrong way disconnected the pink wire from the negative side of the coil and poof a hole heap of smoke from the wires in the picture .now there's no power to anything but the head lights replaced ignition solenoid fuse as it was blown still nothing help me! !!

Maybe you need this :

_________________
1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

No Dave, that is LUCAS smoke, he needs HITACHI smoke

_________________
Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

What about Bosch smoke? I can't see any pictures if you've uploaded any but check the fusible link wires, they go from your positive battery terminal to the black relay cover on the drivers' side of your engine bay. Failing that check your fuse box, it's in the drivers' front footwell.

_________________
green200b - aka Alistair

The fleet:

Australia:
'80 200B GX - the green200b - hibernating
'81 RX-7 - 12A extend port - daily
'74 RX-2 - 13B bridgeport - cruiser

Europe:
'93 200SX - CA18DET - tourer

It's a 200b, bold assumption there's any footwell left.
correct answer would be check the rust holding together what was the drivers footwell

200b with no power and smoking?
I don't see the problem here, that's how they came from factory...

Anyway, as Alistair said, your fusible link from your battery has burnt out.
You need to replace it in order to start fixing your problems, a company called "NICE products" make these, and if your model isn't listed the catalog has pictures of everything and just match it up.
Otherwise you can buy fusible wire, just buy with in the same colour and use the same length and put connectors on the end and replace the destroyed link (there are other options such as inline fuse but its up to you)

Anyway the real problem here is in the electronic distributor.
There are 2 screws that hold on the cover that houses the ignition module.
Undo these 2 screws and make sure all 4 connectors are connected to the module properly and in the right order.


edit: just re-read the post... was the engine turning over before you took the negative off the coil?
what makes you assume there was no spark

_________________
1979 Datsun Stanza Coupe
1979 Datsun Stanza Coupe Project
1979 Datsun Stanza GX
1982 Datsun Stanza GX
1966 Nissan Cedric Custom Six
1972 Volkswagen Beetle
1974 Toyota Landcruiser Stallion (SWB)
EziAutoParts

In the twenty-odd 200Bs I have owned I am yet to have one with rusty footwell!

I'd check the fusible links first then follow Trav's instructions with the dizzy. Let us know how you go

_________________
green200b - aka Alistair

The fleet:

Australia:
'80 200B GX - the green200b - hibernating
'81 RX-7 - 12A extend port - daily
'74 RX-2 - 13B bridgeport - cruiser

Europe:
'93 200SX - CA18DET - tourer

Yeah come on Mick, its obviously because of the electrolysis from the fuse box, rust prevention.

_________________
1979 Datsun Stanza Coupe
1979 Datsun Stanza Coupe Project
1979 Datsun Stanza GX
1982 Datsun Stanza GX
1966 Nissan Cedric Custom Six
1972 Volkswagen Beetle
1974 Toyota Landcruiser Stallion (SWB)
EziAutoParts

[quote="travm182"][quote="green200b"][quote="unfamilia"]It's a 200b, bold assumption there's any footwell left.
correct answer would be check the rust holding together what was the drivers footwell[/quote]

In the twenty-odd 200Bs I have owned I am yet to have one with rusty footwell![/quote]

Yeah come on Mick, its obviously because of the electrolysis from the fuse box, rust prevention.[/quote]

Out of 20 200bs yes you haven't had one rusty foot well, must be 40 of them

Electrolysis trav, if that's what you girls use on you facial hair tell me more????

I'm guessing the fuseable link is the red wires in the picture

Also I have these to wires left over witch were bolted to the points dizzy I'm guessing the blacks an earth but what's the blue

The red cables running over your little finger in the top picture are the fusible links

_________________
green200b - aka Alistair

The fleet:

Australia:
'80 200B GX - the green200b - hibernating
'81 RX-7 - 12A extend port - daily
'74 RX-2 - 13B bridgeport - cruiser

Europe:
'93 200SX - CA18DET - tourer

One of the wires is the ground and one is the wire that goes to the condenser. I just put heat shrink over them and tied them out of the way they are not necessary for electronic ignition.

_________________
1979 Datsun Stanza Coupe
1979 Datsun Stanza Coupe Project
1979 Datsun Stanza GX
1982 Datsun Stanza GX
1966 Nissan Cedric Custom Six
1972 Volkswagen Beetle
1974 Toyota Landcruiser Stallion (SWB)
EziAutoParts

I'm jinxed , got starting issues too now.
Put newer battery in last week. Power at all key positions but not at start.
so lights etc work. drove it last night got petrol and did it at servo. Jiggled key pulled fuses and battery terminals. It started. won't start ttoday

No click at starter when key to starter. 12 at battery.

Is it starter? Ignition switch? or something else. All smoke on wires still so I'm good there.

Highly likely it is your Ignition Switch.
You can test that it is good/bad by using the following: - The upper circuit with Ignition Resistor is applicable.
The START terminal goes directly to the starter solenoid: - As a temporary measure to bypass the Ignition Switch contacts, you can use a jumper wire to bridge the solenoid to battery.
If the starter kicks in EVERY time with the jumper, then that points to the START contacts or the wiring at the Ignition Switch.
The jumper wire need only be a short length of 10A wire with either alligator clips each end or just stripped bare.
TAKE CARE not to ground the wire since it goes straight to the Battery positive terminal!

_________________
Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

Ok so pos on starter to pos on the solenoid (where the other wire usually connects yeah?)

I have a remote starter from an old tune up kit. Never used it though.