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 Post subject: Big Bore Grunter
PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 10:07 pm 
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Location: Melbourne
Hi Guys

Just thought I'd share my project with you all. It been a long time in the making (14 years) but It's oh so close to being finished.

The body was a rusted out POS when I first got it back from the bead blaster, usal places totally gone rear quarters sills where the front guards mount on etc. Anyway with a lot of phone calls and favours called in I managed to purchase 2 brand new full rear quarter panels from Nissan Australia. The car was sent to the panel beater where they proceeded to unstich the origanals and replace then with the replacement items. Other rust was cut from the car and then painted in Ford Midnight Blue with a slight metalic tone thrown in.
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As i'm running a FJ20 I've fitted maddat cross member. The engine it self is at the stage of being dummy assembled. It consists of a billet crank 91mm stroke with all the good stuff done to it, through B/E lightening holes riffle drilled ultra lighted straight shot oil system. B/E dia is 48mm. Total weight of the crank is 15.4kg around 3kg lighter than stock item. Rods are eagle Toyota 3SGTE items around 550 grams each.
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Bore size is 92mm, it took a few blocks but in the end we found one where the bore wall thickness would accomadate a piston of that size. Pistons are JE's that will push the compression ratio up to 10.8 Mains have been line honed to clean up a few low spots in the tunnel.

The head has been lightly ported just to inprove the flow. Valves are std Dia as we are going for faster air speed through the ports. I've got Kameari valve springs ready to be fitted. I can't remember cam specs i'll post tem later but lift is around .420" inlet and outlet. I'm running adjustable cam gears, doweled not slotted.

Gearbox is FJ20T item but i'm running Kameari Close ratio gear set 1st 2.4 2nd 1.6 3rd 1.2. Bearings, sinkro's and gaskets have all been replaced with the front bearing being replaced with a larger bearing from another nissan box. (I think 260z)Driving the box is a twin plate tilton clutch with a light weight flywheel. The flywheel weighs around 5.5kg could be lighter but I wanted to keep it thick so it won't get heat affected.
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I purchased a blow up FJ from Paul at MD spares (FJ powered alfa) for spares but mainly for the injection setup. It is a custom made 2" throddle bodies retro fitted to FJ inlet runners so they could use std injectors and fuel rail. The headers are maddat but I asked for larger dia than off the shelf item.
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Things to do:
1. Run Dry sump lines from rear.
2. Fit front and rear seats
3. Fit gauges into dash
4. Exhaust
5. Mount clutch master cylinder and brake oil pots.


Last edited by DATTOCAM on Thu Sep 29, 2011 11:01 pm, edited 9 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 10:12 pm 
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Just a few more pics.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 10:38 pm 
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Location: Adelaide
Nice dude thats going to be a total screamer, will be like a trumpet symphony :thumbsup:

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 10:44 pm 
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Location: PORTLAND VIC
:thumbsup: Nice one man like the injection setup, what are the throttle body's off or what brand are they?

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 10:48 pm 
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Thanks guys,

I don't know who made the injection setup as they came with a blown engine that I purchased. I'll call the previous owner tomorrow and PM you if he can remember.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 12:25 am 
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Location: Melbourne, VIC
I have dry-sump & quad throttle body envy! great job man, can't wait to see it finished, it's gonna sound unbelievable on song :hail:

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 10:11 am 
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Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
Hmmm. Like. What colour was the car originally?

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 1:56 pm 
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Car was off white... But I only used 2 of the original doors as somebody had spent a lot of time boggin the rust.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 10:28 pm 
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Just a pics of some more work.

Things have been a little slow on the build of late, just had my first baby so spare time is few and far between. Had a boy so theres someone to pass the car onto now. :cheers Anyway the fuel pumps/filters and swirl pot are mounted so tomorrow i'll start running the soild lines.

The brackets are way overkill but fun to make and I think they look good.

Enjoy


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 11:53 pm 
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Hey Gents,

Just a few progress Pics
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File comment: As I'm running a davis craige water pump I made a blanking plate to cover the hole that will be left.
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File comment: 2 extra sets of trumpets.. When it gets dyno'd i'll try all 3 what ever makes the most power will be used. I only want to dyno it once and not have an after thought of "what if a shorter/longer trumpet would make more power"
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File comment: I wasn't happy with the weight of the standard wheel so I put it on a 12 x 24mm hole diet.
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File comment: Pulley and drive setup complete in order of assembley L-R
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 11:59 pm 
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File comment: Have the tilton and F/W sorted now 9.4kg in total.
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File comment: As the pan was second hand, a sump spacer was needed to enable the extra stroke to not fowl.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 12:22 am 
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I've had alot of grief with the inlet manifold... I found head side that there was about 1.5mm of bowing along the clamping face. So after disassembling the trumpets and butterflys This let to the next problem, the 2 butterfly shafts weren't lined up about 1mm of height difference. I machined both ends to true it up.

Fear got the better of me so took apart the butterfly assembly's and found that 1 shaft had been growled out by the bearing due to the misalignment... So after around $1400 I now have a reconditioned inlet system, new injectors, fuel rail, throddle linkages, TPS, throddle cable, butterfly shaft and shaft bearings. Oh and 2 extra sets of trumpets.

The engine will be finished assembled next week with only the sump pump bracket to make I can't belive how long these things take :oops:

As for non engine updates since the last update I finally got my M48 pro motec unit, found some door cards and fitted them, ran the internal alloy fuel lines fitted front and rear windows.

I'll post some more pics of the other work soon. (With the engine fitted :woohoo: )


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 3:33 pm 
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Location: Adelaide
Looking good :thumbsup:

Will be interested to see the differences with the different trumpets...

Chris

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 6:01 pm 
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The FJ looks like it is going to be a grunter alright.

I am building a similar L series at the moment. Never build a dry sump system so have got a few queries
I got my dry sump pump/balancer/pulley and pan from rebello in the US. good stuff but pricey
I have got to sort out my tank and lines now
Where did you get your Oil tank from? has it got a centrifugal de-airator inside?
Are you going to run two scavenge lines from the engine bay to the pump?
Are you going to run a vacume limiting device on the block/head breathers?

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 10:56 pm 
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lampy wrote:
The FJ looks like it is going to be a grunter alright.

I am building a similar L series at the moment. Never build a dry sump system so have got a few queries
I got my dry sump pump/balancer/pulley and pan from rebello in the US. good stuff but pricey
I have got to sort out my tank and lines now
Where did you get your Oil tank from? has it got a centrifugal de-airator inside?
Are you going to run two scavenge lines from the engine bay to the pump?
Are you going to run a vacume limiting device on the block/head breathers?
Hey Lampy,

I purchased the tank from Ebay usa. The brand is champ pans, I just kept waiting until the right volume came along. I have a 12ltr unit. It came off a 4cly dirt track car it has a Z shape baffle inside to de-air the oil. It's more like two z's ontop of each other. All up with shipping it cost $320 when the dollar was at .88c (I did spend alot of time cleaning the inner and outer of the tank)

As it's a 3 stage pump I'll scavange 2 from the sump through the pump then 2-1 manifold and pump back to the tank. I won't be running a vacume limiting device on the block/head breaters. Honestly I don't know what you mean by "vacume limiting device"

Get back with that and i'll answer your question. I'll take a couple of photo's of the inner of the tank when I'm at the car next.

Cheers Cam


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