All sounds good to me.

I would wait as long as you can to allow the fish oil to go hard. Just follow instructions and factor in cold weather.

I would also make sure you use some zinc based primer over the rust repair sections.

I would prime again when you rub through to bare metal before putting body filler back on. (seal the panel). Repeat this step for as long as it takes. (layer by layer)

Other than that, I reckon your heading in the right direction.

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Yeah, the aim is always to bog on primed metal. And always have a primer down.

Hmm. I do have a gal primer. Thats something I didn't think of.

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

Well. 3 wire wheels on the angle grinder. 1L of paint stripper, half of Stockton beach in the sand blaster and 2 days solid elbow grease. And you get an engine bay free of paint. So clean you can eat off it.
Stay tuned, tomorrow's job is primer. There are a few bits of paint left that I just couldn't get rid of. And not sure what to do with the galleries where the bonnet hinges dock. Other than that, its soaking in rust converter to let it do its thing. Then tomorrow its gonna get primer and seam sealer and bog up all the dents. Its in progress.
Need to talk to find out what primers I should use though.

Next few days, I need to decide on a colour.

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

I'd take the opportunity to start seam welding some of the body before primer?

_________________
1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Honestly, I had thought about seam welding it. Initially I had planned to seam weld around the strut tops and down the strut towers on the engine bay to reinforce that section. But as its a road car I decided against it. I would have had to do the floors also which i've already painted because the shock if i had an accident will only get transferred along the chassis. Instead, I'm going to strengthen all of the components that will occupy most of the forces. Front arms, rear strut towers. Apparently the R31 skylines have plates that bold from the rear sub-frame onto the chassis which strengthen it also for the suspension components, and anything else I can find along the way.

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

Looking good Ross you need to get your intercooler mounted and pips ran so you can cut what you need out ,so you are not cutting new paint.

If you are going to run an SR20, you might want to remove the piece of sheet metal on the firewall that sits above the gearbox/bell housing near the clutch. Clearance around here is tight.
Also, i'd cut the hole for the loom while your there.
Routing the heater hoses (if you are doing something different), it might pay to cut the holes for that.
Finally, if you are running a "large can" brake booster, an indentation in the wheel well now will save you the headache later on down the track. (and re-painting as well!)

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Yeah, I know. All good points, but unfortunately I need to shift some of the stuff around my car before I start buying more things. Old suspension and brakes etc. I don't have the IC yet. OR the motor. I'll get to it shortly.
I'm going to leave that panel in place on the drain. But i've removed the brake distribution bracket on it for clearance at the back of the motor. I suppose I could remove it, what do you think Todd? Did you remove it on yours too Nick?

I have just bought some Epoxy primer that i'm going to pray all the engine bay with and POR15 for the water galleries and bonnet hinge docking spots. Inside the drains and anywhere that will rust.

The plan is to primer it all. Then do the body work. Then when i get around to it, I'll get my IC and cut the holes for that and do a bit of touch up of primer, then i'll paint it. I have no idea what to do with the heater hoses yet. And brake booster is a small can 180b. I wanted a large can one. But I can't be bothered buying one now that I have this already. What do I need to do for the loom? Will it not fit in the normal hole? Do I need to enlarge it? To what size, i can do that now.

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

Just remove the drain. It's just another thing to clog up.
I removed mine, and it's fine.
IC is cheap. Just buy it now!!! (i bought my hybrid one for around $250). You'll have to buy the 3" to 2.5" 90 deg bends as well.

You don't have to buy a NEW large can booster right now. Go and get a second hand one first, make the indentation now, and then chuck it out or get it re-coed by Datsport. (they paint it too) Easy!

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Yeah, I have a 200b booster up in the shed from my last 16, So i might make that dent now then. IC I just need to find my size. But will probably go the 450mm core size. Removing the drain, I'm undecided upon that. Guess you won't see it.

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

Ok, my time left in the afternoon was hindered by poor planning and prep work. So I decided not to spray the primer just yet. Instead, I had to wash and dry with thinners and wax and grease remover the pockets where the bonnet hinges dock, to paint them with POR15.
I did this, and used a brush to paint it on. However, I'll use a spray gun tomorrow for a second coat. I realised that the fish oil I had used in the chassis rails before i started stripping had caused the sand from the sand blaster to stick to it. SO, before i could paint the inside of the water tray. I need to pressure wash that out.

So tomorrow morning i'll hit that with a combination of hot water and anything else I can think of to remove it that way i can spray on the final coats of POR15 and inside the water tray too. At the same time, wash the acid from the rust converter off the rest of the engine bay for primer. Then apparently Its best to wash it with metho. Then air dry it and then... Finally I can paint the primer down. Which has its own Zinc rust inhibitor in it.
Epoxy primer.

Anyway, this was all I did today. Oh, and Spandex's door handles are finished now too. If you're still keen? If anyone else would like a set, PM me and i'll see if we can work something out.

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

I suggest you use Mineral Turps to remove the fish oil. I wouldn't use water IMHO.

_________________
1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Rust preventing before primer.

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

So after finally acid washing (rust converting) the bare metal, I left it for a couple of days before painting on my top coats of POR15 onto the area's I didn't want the car to rust. Inside the bonnet hinge spots, along the seams of the wheel arches to the firewall seam. Along where the lights join. Down to the chassis rails, then onto the Water tray inside section and along the inside seam in the cabin where the firewall joins the water tray.

This had 2 coats, and on the second coat it was left to go tacky so that I could coat a primer on top and have it stick (it told me so on the tin and the paint guys) left it so that it wasn't completely dry - about 2-3 hours dry time. This gave me time to final wash down the acid metal as was advised for me to do. It was said to do it just with water, but i'm a tad anal about these things. So my method was:

• 1. Rub down with Wax and Grease Remover.
  2. Rub that over with thinners.
  3. Rub that down with water and let air dry (as was told to do by the paint guys and on the tin).
  4. wash that down with metho.

This had then prepared the surface all clean from contaminants (mostly) and gave a great base for this: You need to leave it 10 hours between coats apparently. So will give it another coat tomorrow morning or not. I'll see, then will seam sealer it, bog all my defects then high fill over the top of that, and then she'll be ready for a final rub down and then paint!
But at least and long last I have the engine bay in primer!

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

Full report on how the Epotec goes, please - how it goes on, how it fills, how easy to sand, how much of a mess the overspray makes etc

I'm looking to use it on mine as well.

I found the "mist coat while POR15 is still tacky" worked really well, better in fact than using their own product (Tiecoat) over dried POR15. I wasn't completely happy with the Tiecoat's adhesion to 18month-old cured POR15 where I tested it on one section of the floorpan, and ended up sanding it back off followed by sanding the whole floorpan with 600 wet & dry to knock the gloss off and get the next coat to "key" to the POR15 (the POR15 is extremely tough by the way, very hard to sand back). Its OK now, but the inside of the floorpan, which I did with the "mist over tacky POR15" technique, ended up a better job.

Looking very nice . I'm getting keen to get mine all one uniform colour.

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady