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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 9:36 pm 
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Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
I bought a new one mate. But ill keep the rebuild kit for the old one just in case!

I'm hopeful that it'll sort out my pedal issue. 7/8 master and it just seemed to get hard at a certain point. Its not hitting the end of its piston travel, but doesn't seem to be ankle to get enough pressure on it. It certainly wasn't like that with my old brakes thats for sure. I know these are bigger up front, but that means ill just have to push the pedal further.

If not, I'll rebuild the calipers with new seals. I've had them sitting there for a while.

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2018 1:47 pm 
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Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
Attachment:
[ attachment ]
20180225_155704-1512x2016.jpg [ 687.89 KiB | Viewed 5861 times ]
Bit of work on the engine bay in Feb. New airbox and intake made.

Still a few little jobs. Getting there when i have the time.

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2018 2:58 pm 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
Looking good Ross!

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2018 6:54 pm 
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Great update Ross and wrapped to see you still working away on it!

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1600 Build: http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=22694


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2018 7:04 pm 
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Thanks guy's. Yep slowly! The airbox has been something threat i wanted to get sorted for a while. New Tig welds alloy really well.
Have added come side panels on the radiator to force the air through it rather than around to try and assist with cooling temps but it's not that effective. Might have to add a vent in the bonnet to let the air out.

Just have to finish the exhaust and wire injectors in and it's time for a tune.

Oh, also added some 256 cams. Sounds the same but it's changed the power delivery. Much better midrange and maybe even low down torque. Will love to see how it goes once tuned in!

How are your respective cars going?

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2018 7:17 pm 
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Great work Ross. A TIG is next on my list, hopefully this year. Which model did you get?

Mine is going well, I did some small updates and need to post some pics, I'm going to do an E85 conversion now :) So getting all the bits together in prep of that.

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1600 Build: http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=22694


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2018 7:35 pm 
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Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
Awesome mate!
I got the Lincoln 201 ac/dc. It's great. For the price i can't fault it and it welds as smooth as my mates Kemppi. Plus it's got pulse and the mma function is super smooth for stick welding.

When i get some space back again I'll do more work on the car. Update the things i don't like! Haha.

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2018 9:06 pm 
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RJB510 wrote:
...Have added come side panels on the radiator to force the air through it rather than around to try and assist with cooling temps but it's not that effective. Might have to add a vent in the bonnet to let the air out.
Hi Ross,

When you say it's not that effective, what results are you getting? The vent in the bonnet is only going to help when you are stationary as most of the air when moving will go under the car from the engine bay.

The temperature of my car stays pretty cool even on really hot days, but the 12" thermo fan kicks in quite often when I'm in peak hour traffic. Once moving, the thermo fan never kicks in. Track proven not just yet. Oil cooler will hopefully keep things cool!

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2018 4:54 pm 
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In 35deg days intake temp for the radiator sits at about 85 degrees.
I thought that was a bit high.
That's just cruising temp. When i accelerate it goes higher. I just don't think it's an efficient radiator. I thought that there might be too much positive pressure in the engine bay whilst moving? So not enough air going under the car?

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2018 4:57 pm 
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Ross, what fans are you running again?


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2018 5:09 pm 
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RJB510 wrote:
In 35deg days intake temp for the radiator sits at about 85 degrees.
I thought that was a bit high.
That's just cruising temp. When i accelerate it goes higher. I just don't think it's an efficient radiator. I thought that there might be too much positive pressure in the engine bay whilst moving? So not enough air going under the car?
Ok, assuming you mean the inlet to the radiator, not the inlet to the engine. If you are 85 degrees out from the engine then you are perfect.
SR's like to run with a temp of around 86-92deg C (from memory.. - could be wrong).

If it's the outlet of the radiator to the inlet of the engine, then that's not a bad temperature either. Consider that a typical radiator can only pull approx 5 degC out when under power...
(see:
http://www.enginebasics.com/Engine%20Ba ... 20Pg2.html

Come and talk to me when you hit 110degC.

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2018 5:10 pm 
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Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
Hey Martin, Big 16'' Spal mate.

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2018 5:14 pm 
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Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
Ah ok. I'd have to check again but it's been close to 100deg outlet of the motor.
No, that temp is definitely from the thermometer at the outlet of the radiator going into the motor.
I've got two temp sensors. The vdo one at the inlet of the radiator and the thermo fan temp controller at the outlet of the radiator monitoring temps going into the motor.

I've spliced in the oem temp probe into the vdo gauge on a switch, but it reads about 15deg high from what i can gather.

On a hot day I'm never giving the motor a hard time.

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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 Post subject: Re: Ross' New 1600
PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2018 5:16 pm 
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RJB510 wrote:
Ah ok. I'd have to check again but it's been close to 100deg outlet of the motor.
Sounds right to me...

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun


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