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PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2017 10:11 am 
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Hi Trent,

I'd be very interested to know how you go with the head rebuild. Port and polish maybe? :D

My car is drivable now which is good, but I need to get a wheel alignment and fix minor things (windscreen wipers linkage is catching somehwere, tacho lights have fallen out, weld up my catch can,
I think my tyres are out of round (flat spots) which is causing a vibration.

Not yet ready to race just yet... Gotta update my fire extinguisher, harnesses, and a few other bits and pieces which is easy.

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2017 9:11 pm 
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Thanks Lurch, sent through a request for more information today

Get it ready Nik, it's been years :D. Looking forward to seeing it on the track again!

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 9:18 pm 
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Hi All,

Not a lot of action on the forums however getting lots of use out of the car. It just works :) I actually ended up selling my new RS, it just didnt handle as well as the datto and was slower around Sandown... yeah that safety thing... anyway, the Datto has spoilt me for cars, damn you Baz!!! :)

I have some ideas in the works, new coil packs, new tires. BTW, the bucket divider thing with the air filter works a treat, im building some electronics at the moment to measure the temp difference, should have that complete in the next week or so and ill post up the results.

Cheers,

Trent

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 06, 2017 4:21 pm 
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Hi Trent,
What kind of tyres are you thinking of? Same again? I've been thinking of getting a new set too as mine aren't round...
Why new coil packs?

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 06, 2017 5:22 pm 
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Hey Nik,

I have the Toyo Proxes R1R & love them. However I was going to try the R888R just for fun. My coil packs are looking tired. I'm trying to replaces some of the older components bit by bit as things pop up. The engine is about 20 years old....

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 06, 2017 6:14 pm 
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R888R sounds like a great tyre. Treadwear rating of 100! Soft!
I would be interested to see how you go with them. I was looking at the Kumho V70a, but I like the sound of the R888R.

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viewtopic.php?t=6579
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 5:58 pm 
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Hi All,

Datsun upgrade time!!

This one I have to give full credit to this guys write up!

https://sr20tuning.net/mods/ignition-upgrade/

For those who don't want to read through my post. Results = amazing!

So, lets start with the basics, my car started to miss when it was running for about 15 mins. Only at part throttle, a sign the coil packs were starting to play up. They are 20 years old so you cant blame them right!!

So after doing some research, confirming the numbers on the guys site I decided to embark on the upgrade. Unfortunately my phone camera is broken so I only have a few pics after the upgrade. A mate and I did this in about 2 hours total.

1. I purchased the igniter bypass from the US, I could have made my own however for the price 35USD it just wast worth it. I might have saved only a few $$
2. Purchased some brand new genuine Toyota coil packs, was able to get them for $50 each. #90919 - 02240
3. Purchased some brand new plugs for the coils
4. Purchased a second hand loom for the SR coil wiring ($70 too expensive in my opinion) anyway it did the job
5. I had some carbon fiber for the brackets to hold the coils
6. Needed to get an M7 Tab for the carbon

All up the conversion was about the $350 mark

The reason I went down this path instead of going the genuine SR ones was the bigger spark, proven conversion and ease of access for parts. It also eliminated the ignightor from the original SR loom! One less part to break.

Notes:
1. I had to grind down one of the coil packs for the first cylinder to fit
2. ECU tweaks were done by a mate of mine in 5 mins
3. The second hand loom I purchased was quite brittle. I ended up stripping it all down and rebuilding the whole thing. Next time I'd just source the correct plug for the SR side and make my own
4. The trigger wires in the SR loom are big, to get them to fit in the new plugs was a little tough so I soldered as well. (Not a big fan of soldering these) however should be OK
5. Used an M6 tap for the first cylinder and a smaller bracket, you should be able to see in the pics
6. New coils are a great fit
7. 3d printed a spacer to allow me to cut 1mm of rubber from the end of each coil pack, yes the spacer was removed after cutting off the rubber

Performance:
* Car runs MUCH better
* Boost seems to come on earlier
* Throttle response is much better
* Pulls like a freight train
* No traction in second at all anymore!


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 6:15 pm 
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Additional Pics


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2017 2:30 pm 
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Hey Trent im just wondering why you choose the toyota coilpacks over a LS coilpack conversion?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2017 2:33 pm 
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Easy, the LS coil packs look terrible.

The Toyota ones fit under the factory SR plastic cover. I have seen some mods with the LS coils stuck on the top and it screams DIY :)

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2017 5:36 pm 
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Fair enough
A coil pack conversion was something i had on the cards for my 1600 and i want to convert to e85 aswell


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2017 5:37 pm 
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Hey mate, it's a good idea. I'm now at the point that it has enough power so I think i'll just be in maintain mode :) Good luck with your conversion.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2018 1:42 pm 
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Any updates Trent?

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2020 11:45 am 
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re INDICATOR LAMPS

Love your work, and I am in awe of your dedication to the task and attention to detail.

I've had several Dattos and after a while the front indicator lamps become damp inside and eventually gather dust which becomes mud and rust, and they stop working. I have opted for a fully sealed, submersible LED indictor and park lamp assembly the same size as the original indicator lamp, but rectangular: 175x50x24mm. These are Australian-designed, Taiwanese-made for fitting to bull bars. Note that these are definitely NOT the cheap imported crap ones with "ears".

On the plus side: clear and bright LEDs, fit very neatly into original locations and look really smart, no visible screws, crystal clear (like man modern cars, indicator becomes amber when powered), and most importantly ain't gonna to fill up with mud and stop working.

On the minus side: rectangular; up close don't look original; being only 24mm thick need to be mounted on a frame that locates the front of the lens where the OEM lens was. I achieved correct locating by cannibalising a couple of old indicator metal back plates, added a couple of postage stamp sized plates to screw into to attach the LED lamp backing plate (lamp clips into a stiff plastic backing plate). The frame was then painted in black satin epoxy paint. The end result has the correct standoff and mounting angle relative to the bodywork for the correct lens positioning, and retains the OEM bolt hole positions.

Whilst obviously not the genuine item, IMHO if you had never seen an original Datto you could be forgiven for thinking these are worthy of being original equipment, albeit in a modern guise.

Please excuse my photos which do not include the headlamp surrounds, stainless steel eyebrow mouldings, grille and lower stainless strip moulding.

Alan


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2020 12:19 pm 
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Hey mate,

Wow, it's been a while since I have been on here. Thanks for the kind words and love your work with the indicators. Keep the updates coming :)

I'm about to get my car back from the panel shop in the coming weeks and will start back on some projects and updates.

Current thoughts are:
* Traction control
* More 3D printed parts in Nylon
* Aluminium IC piping

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