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PostPosted: Sun Oct 23, 2011 8:07 pm 
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i love it, interior looks great lots of modern bits added, are they rx7 seats? and what indicator stalk/cover have you used?

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 11:03 pm 
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jasol wrote:
I love it, interior looks great lots of modern bits added, are they rx7 seats? and what indicator stalk/cover have you used?
Thanks mate. Yes the seats are FD RX7 seats and rails/runners.The indicator stalk cover is off mid 80's Toyota with tilt and reach.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 9:22 pm 
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Location: w.a
Been a while since last update. Finally got around to fitting my SSS dash with Speedhut tacho and speedo. I was never happy with where I had the boost gauge originally. Much happier now.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 11:30 am 
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Nice work mate, how did you go with gaps etc? I found it a pretty challenging thing to get right.. You have given me some ideas for the wiring :)

Cheers,

Trent

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2012 12:17 am 
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hailest wrote:
Nice work mate, how did you go with gaps etc? I found it a pretty challenging thing to get right.. You have given me some ideas for the wiring :)

Cheers,

Trent
Cheers. What gaps are you referring to? (a) gaps between face of gauge and back of plastic dash or (b)the gaps as in the surround gauge holes are not perfectly round and the aftermarket gauges are?

(a) I used a dremmel with the thin cutting discs to make these even.
(b) not much you can do about these but doesn't look odd or anything even with aluminium finished bezels.

I ripped your design off with the mounting of the tacho and speedo, I was going to mount these seperate as in how they originally mount to the dash frame, but as gauges were not heavy I thought this would be a much easier away to get a nice even gap. And also not having to think up and trial ways of mounting them saved time and second attempts :) cheers. I was not sure how you mounted the top part but I machined up some black plastic at work and used U-pol bumper repair glue to mount the plastic bosses.

I already had Autometer gauges for my other gauges and also boost so thought I would keep all the small gauges the same. They actually match up well.

With the wiring, the Speedhut gauges didn't say anything about what fuse to use so I used what Autometer recommend which is 3AG 1 amp fast acting fuses. With the plugs I used they were quite a bitch to separate. I recommend with a small toothpick or something applying dielectric grease around and inside each separation of plastic, trying to avoid contact the terminals themselves. This helps heaps.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2012 9:54 am 
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Trent,

One other thing with the wiring I looped the Speedhut gauge wire around so they can be removed seperately from the plastic surround (otherwise you would have to remove pins from main plugs if you know what I mean), where as the Autometer gauges plug straight into the back of there gauge.

Also I had problems with the GPS sensor getting a signal where you have yours mounted. So I have just places it in the corner on top of dash (metal part). Apart from that highly recommend the Speedhut gauges, look really good and some good features- 0-100 time, 0-400 time and in dash redline LEDs etc, and very easy to program.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 8:35 pm 
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Thanks mate,

When you say "I looped the Speedhut gauge wire around" putting a plug in? I have been contemplating making up some separate plug for easier removal of the guages, the thing is, is there more time in making up the plugs as opposed to replacing a guage if/when they fail... hmm, haven't made up my mind yet.

Heard the GPS sensor may not be great in the location I have. Hmm time will tell. I was thinking of making up a plug and testing in my normal car to see what its like.

Glad my design helped and you had some success with it. I ended up using some Nylon standoffs from Jaycar, the things they use to separate PCB's from the casing and then just glued them on with a plastic glue. Seems pretty strong.

Yeah I was curious about where the face of the gauge meets the plastic form the dash, I found that pretty challenging to get right...

Cheers,

Trent

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 2:22 pm 
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Trent, no worries.

I looped it around so I could keep the original plugs on the Speedhut gauges incase for whatever reason I need to remove a gauge separately. You could tidy the wiring up more if you dont do this but if you want to remove a Speedhut gauge separately you will need to remove the necessary pins out of the main plug which connects all the wires. No biggy really.

"Heard the GPS sensor may not be great in the location I have. Hmm time will tell." again no big deal trial and error.

Nylon standoffs, will keep them in mind for other projects, definitely would come in very handy.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 10:18 pm 
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Location: w.a
Small update. Finally got around to making up a unleaded fuel filler as always had problems with cap sealing properly when tank fuel. Not quite finished will get some more pics up when finished. Had the inlet Cadmium coated as the guys at the zinc coaters in Perth weren't very helpful and couldn't get the zinc down the inlet (were to lazy to put a anode down the tube.)

Welds not the prettiest, rather embarrassing actually. My auto helmet run out of batteries kept getting flashed. Had a friend weld it as I couldnt see through his normal helmet lense. Anyway not leaking and not seen.

Anyone in Perth wanting Cadmium coating done, I recommend Anthony at Aeroplate, excellent service, takes pride in his work, and very helpful.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2012 12:25 pm 
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Location: w.a
Fuel filler update finished pics. Not sure how others have done there unleaded filler conversion but here is mine. Filler kneck done in cadmium, filler pipe KBS coating inside and out. Will get a pic with cap off so you can see how cadmium has coated the inside too.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 12:24 pm 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
Looks nice and clean!

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 8:56 pm 
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Cheers, I used the original mounting holes so it could always be put back to original.

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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 7:30 pm 
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Location: w.a
Hi guys and girls,

Its been a while since I posted a update, been busy with other projects ie work and my house. I had a lot of pictures on a harddrive that was stolen from my daily driver a few years back, so I have lost many photos of the build plus other photos unfortunately. Someone out there has scored a harddrive worth F-all to them!

Anyways here are some photos I found on a old computer CD when I was tidying up recently. I have finally finished the door trim inserts, and also modified my FD jap import seat rails so they can slide further back another 70mm or so (there are threads on one of the rotary forums on how to do this).

Its a tight squeeze with the rotary engine. The neck of the steering rack had to be rotated, I had Rotomotion weld this for me and machine it. They did an excellent job at a good price considering the amount of time to set it up on the mill after welding. Also I had a friend of a friend machine and spline a longer extension at a good price (4101 steel from memory) from the column to the rack. Shorter steering knuckles were used as well to get maximum turning circle.

Recently I had the steering rack rebuilt with new seals etc (about $480 from memory?) as when I originally rebuilt it I accidentally damaged a oil seal assembling it. I thought I would save the labour pains and get a pro to do it and he can pressure test it and with warranty as well. The difference in steering is huge compared to the old steering boxes. I also stripped and painted the crossmember in KBS coatings which I am a big fan of (I have seen powder coating when it chips and moisture gets under it, it then gets surface rust and peels like a sheet of paper)


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Last edited by rx510 on Sat May 06, 2017 9:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 7:39 pm 
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more....


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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 7:50 pm 
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more...


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