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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 5:27 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 8:51 pm
Posts: 136
Location: w.a
Hi all,

My brother and I have been building the datto for a period of too long that I would rather not mention. Some of you guys may not appreciate the path we have gone, eg engine choice, big wheels, modern colour etc. But this is what I envisioned before and as the project progressed. 99% of the work gone into the car car was done by us (mainly myself).

I have other build photos I will add when I find them as they were taken with older camera and will need to be scanned. The car was a Torana pinky purple when I bought it and had home made home handyman flares all round. The previous owner was a bit of a home handyman and had cut up some 1.0mm zinc and riveted it on the underlip of arches and used bog to form the shape, and blacked them out with underbody Schultz, nice. And was sporting a 1.8litre engine.

Have spent quiet a long time doing the bodywork. New old stock full rear quarter panels, new sills,new back end piece made by us and curved rolled by Rowe and so. I had plated the front doors but was not happy with them so I had a restore shop that specializes in old school panel work and panel making. These guys (Rowe and Sons) made full new door skins for the front two doors.

My brother and myself did all the rust repairs, I did the panel work and body prep , etch priming and high build priming and got the body ready for a friend of a friend to put the finish colour on. The colour originally chosen was what is still in the engine bay and needs to be rubbed back and painted the body colour. I have always liked the BA Falcon Phantom purple colour since they came out and I thought this with the chrome bumpers and dark chrome wheels would look great. It was a hard choice with the colour I wanted something different it was either Ford XY orange or metallic purple. I chose the latter.

Engine choice, again I like to be different I love rotaries, the noise you cant beat, the way they keep pulling throughout the rev range. Everything except fuel consumption oh and torque but who needs that? I have always had Rx7's, 1 series one and 2 series Four's. Originally at the time of fitting the engine I had my series four which was non turbo, I removed this engine to fit a half cut series 5 engine and box. And thought I would use the non turbo to fit to the datto and maybe fit a turbo later on. After about 6 months of driving all the work that had gone into the car did not warrant the non turbo engine, I did not want to port the engine as it would be a noisy thing to go cruising in (as much as I love hearing ported rotarys to actually own one is a different story). So out came the engine and I had Rotomotion build me a series 5 extend port TURBO engine. As I high mounted the turbo there was no room for the air flow meter, So I fitted and wired up a new microtech myself.

Cheers


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Last edited by rx510 on Sun Oct 02, 2011 9:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 5:58 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 8:51 pm
Posts: 136
Location: w.a
more pictures


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 6:09 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 8:51 pm
Posts: 136
Location: w.a
more picture 2


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 6:15 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 8:51 pm
Posts: 136
Location: w.a
more pictures 3


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 6:21 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 17, 2004 2:51 pm
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Location: Frankston Vic
Sweet! What kind of grunt is it putting to the wheels?

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 6:45 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 8:51 pm
Posts: 136
Location: w.a
MYDATO wrote:
Sweet! What kind of grunt is it putting to the wheels?
Thanks.

220 rwhp. Limited by injectors and fuel pump. If upgrade these can get 280 then standard wastegaste will become an issue. But for a weekender 220 is plenty enough for me.

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Last edited by rx510 on Sun Oct 02, 2011 7:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 7:12 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 8:51 pm
Posts: 136
Location: w.a
Interior build pics. 3mm ply with bracing here and there. I made all this and had a friend who is an auto upholster wrap it in leather. I did the door trims myself in vinyl with a heat gun but because of the stitching needed for the dash and centre console etc I thought it would be better to palm this off as I dont have a industrial sewing machine and the leather is very thick.

The staple holes, pin holes and screws were all smoothed off before upholstery was done and ply was sealed with 2pac paint. Also the 3 gauge hole surround pieces had body filler used to blend into console.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 7:14 pm 
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Location: w.a
One more I couldn't fit in my last post


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 11:00 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 22, 2011 4:15 am
Posts: 63
Location: Perth, Western Australia
awesome work on the interior. also think the wheels suit the car well, good job!

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rides:
'76 180b wagon - cruiser project
'93 Skyline Gts-t sedan

'72 1600 ground up rebuild - Sold/parted
'89 VN Calais 5L - Sold
'83 VH SLE ground up rebuild - Sold (further built and featured in Street Commodores)
'01 Subaru Liberty B4, 160kW at all four - Sold


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 11:39 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 08, 2010 10:50 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Central Coast, NSW
Mad, power windows?! How'd you go with retrofitting that?

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RA23 Celica - 18RG, Twin 40mm Webers, Coilovers, rolling on SSR mesh 15x7 0s.
douglasamills wrote:
1600s arent the only datsun


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 7:54 pm 
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Posts: 136
Location: w.a
DRiproject- Cheers mate. Yeh I had the side on pic with the 15" stockie wheels up on photoshop and played around with a few different wheels, very happy with wheel choice 17" and I dont think they look huge (height wise). Of course the car was dropped on its sills in those photos :)

Imago - cheers, I wouldn't recommend doing it the way I have done. The fitting of the motor was easy it was the stuffing around to make the door trims as light as possible out of ply all hollowed out at the back and using the original clipping system with four added screws at each corner for extra support which was a lot of work not worth the hassle. I used toyota corona electric motors which had a scissor action (same as datto) and cut and shut motor mounts to datsun scissor mechanism. I found also at the wreckers older Mazda 626 used same motors and scissor mechanism. So I have a few spare motors at home as I only did the front doors, my way wouldn't work with back doors. Also the original datto doors needed extra bracing to cope with the force of the motors and microswitches.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 12:10 pm 
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Location: Belco, act
brap brap, munch munch, yummy yummy, pistons for lunch...

my dats got a 13b in his 929, atm 260 but will kick 300 hopfully soon

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1979 Datsun Sunny Wagon 13b Turbo conversion: http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=28890


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 2:03 pm 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
Aircon, Custom interior and an egg beater! Love it.
Wheels look good too.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 5:25 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 22, 2011 8:28 pm
Posts: 26
Location: Geelong Victoria
Nice car mate and i like the rotary ! I'm tossing up a few engine conversion ideas for my project at the moment and the 13b is one that keeps popping up. Is it a hard engine to fit, do you have to modify the firewall or transmission tunnel at all ? I'm toying with the idea of a N/A 13B Bridgeport as the car will only ever be a weekend car.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 1:46 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 8:51 pm
Posts: 136
Location: w.a
Thanks for the kind words guys. I will try get some more photos up soon.

Matt1600 regarding fiittng the 13b Keg. Length wise is shorter then the in-line 4 cylinder so obviously your okay there. But the Keg is quite wide. The only way I could see to mount a rotary into the Datsun 1600 is to front mount the engine. Series 4 and later engines use side/bottom mounting originally. So you have to swap the front timing cover off a earlier rx7 with front mounting mounts, easier enough to do. Also remove the mounts form original 1600 crossmember.

I made the engine and g/box mounts myself years back (I think I overkilled with these, when I can be bothered I will trim some metal off and cut some holes to lighten them up a bit). I know Maddat have 13b/13bturbo engine and g/box mounting kits available now. Not sure how low and close to the firewall there kits sit.

Do you have to modify the firewall or transmission tunnel at all? yes will need to definitely modify tunnel by making up new section, and you will also need to slightly modify or make up a piece to clear clutch slave/clutch lever near tunnel opening in firewall. (as the clutch slave is mounted on L/H top side of engine). Datsun clutch master operates Mazda clutch slave no problem there.

The exhaust on a rotary is on the opposite side to Nissan 4 cylinder. So I remade all the fuel and brake lines on the opposite side of car (L/H). Also as the exhaust is on the opposite side of car you will need to make custom extractors to clear steering box/arms (I still have the extractors I made 2" going into 2 1/2" stainless steel if you are interested only done about 600km discoloured from heat). You will also need to mount a electric fuel pump. Best to make up surge tank setup.

Also if your going bridgeport i have been told by a member on this forum you will need to run premix in the fuel as the original oil metering pump cannot handle the revs a BP produces. He was selling his car recently maybe that might be an option for you.

To get maximum power out of a bridgeport you need to have a good flowing exhaust if not you will be strangling power from it. You will probably get a lot of attention from the fuzz. Your car will chew a sh#tload of petrol and you will have to add say $10-$15 of premix to that. If you really want to go N/A, have you thought about fitting a RX8 renesis engine? I heard a couple of years back there were Rotary places in Eastern states fitting these to 808's, Capellas conversions etc.

Anyway a few options if for you to think about.

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