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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 1:42 am 
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venetians...their cut. hubs caps...cut. harsh suspension feeling and too heavy clutch because Ive been too used to driving a little buzz box for the last 3 years and I'm getting older...Doh!
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might have to darken those wheels somehow as they look great when I photoshop them a bit darker but not black.
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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 12:44 am 
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it was time to change the clutch as I didn't need and got sick of the heavy duty one as it wasn't dis engaging right and would be clunking into some gears. it was ok after re bleeding but then would get clunky again soon after even with new M/C's etc etc. so the engine is out for the first time since putting it in 7 ish years ago.

whilst it was out I thought I would tidy the engine bay. re paint touch up etc etc. not to be fussy but it looked awful. also I had the old spear column so i changed that for a 180b one whilst I had the opportunity. I couldn't find a 1600 one. 180b ones are 40mm longer so i will be trying to get a shorter boss kit or alter the one I have to bring the steering wheel back to where it should be.

as things usually go while your there you do way more than you thought you were going to and I found a small leak from the brake M/C so got a new one and replaced all the front metal lines. a few bits of wiring were corroded and loose connections too so the wiring loom has been out so I can fix.

the engine has been out of the car for almost two months and I haven't even bolted the new clutch on yet as all the other stuff takes a lot of time.
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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 8:52 pm 
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Good work! Looks much nicer than before.

Cheers,

Trent

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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 8:55 pm 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
Looking Tough!
Dark wheels seem to go well!

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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 1:52 pm 
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Location: Bkk,Thailand
MangaNOID wrote:
hey all, here is my 1600...

bought this in 2001 as a semi rusty original that hardly drove around the block. so straight into a rebuild, which was the plan when I bought it anyway.

no pictures of that rebuild until it was finished in 2002
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all in all a nice 1600. but just a little boring :( especially as I put in a ca18 twin spark from a R31 wagon. but I don't have pictures of that...what a shame.

also I skimped on the rust repairs as I ran out of money and got a lot of the rust lead wiped. the rust showed up again very quickly.

anyway I drove it around like this pleasantly everyday but always wanting to do more exciting stuff to it. which slowly happened and is still currently happening.
Nice ride.


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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 4:03 pm 
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thanks guys. although i was reluctant to do that much to it I am glad I did in the end.

the finish looks way glossier also because i used KBS diamond clear over the paint. i just brushed it on so when you get close you can see brush marks. it was supposed to be self leveling but dont know what went wrong. ive already had small spils of brake fluid on there and no damage occured, just wiped right off.

BUT!...

I got a small amount of black paint overspray in a small section, being the careless 'get it over and done with' worker I sometimes am, and thought i'd just wipe it off with paint thinners as the kbs stuff is solvent resistant, well thats what the info said but the diamond finish just freaked out and peeled off and disintergrated straight away!


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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 7:44 pm 
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Location: Melbourne Eastern
Ouch!
That'll need repainting now.

If you ever get a bit of overspray, there's something panel beaters call overspray clay (detailers call it detailers clay) which is the first thing to try removing it with. If that fails call me on 1300 661 833. I'm happy to advise you on doing things yourself.

If you need an expert I'm in Melbourne but have expert paint restoration contacts in Sydney, Brisbane, Perth and Adelaide too, if you need them.

Cheers.


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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 8:08 pm 
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I wouldn't worry, can't have a perfect Datto ;) Can you paint some more clear over it? Light sand back?

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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 11:29 pm 
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yea I'm not too worried my car is far from perfect albeit a bit peeved that the KBS doesn't stand up to what it is supposed to.

yes, just a light sand back and another brushed on layer will be fine as it was pretty much under where the wiper motor will sit.


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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 3:28 pm 
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here we go again although I'm doing it this time.
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even though the tyres are still 195/50/15 they are beefier than the ones i gave to the rust shop to originally make them fit under the rear guards. :( live and learn. I didn't notice any rubbing until i had some back seat passengers on some bumps. I've had to chop out a fair bit more metal to make them fit.

only a couple mm clearance so will have to watch when i seal it up after welding. don't really want to dial in more camber.
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not finished yet but looks like an Ape welded it. meh. if its strong I don't mind. it will all be covered up.

takes a long time though. no wonder rust repairs are expensive.


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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 4:05 pm 
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Location: Melbourne, VIC
Good on you for giving it a shot, I'd love to do this to my car in the future. Is it enough to just do the front half like that? Or do you need to do the same thing towards the rear of the guard (in the boot)? Hope that made sense.

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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 6:20 pm 
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yea i had to cut into the boot section a bit.
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not alot but it was still a little scary. this is with standard bump stops.

I have some 7.5" rims that i was going to try with the 195/45 profile as it leagaly fits and should stretch it away from the arches. but too many ground clearance problems to keep that low look of the tyres near the arches. it seems like you know about that though :D


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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 7:43 pm 
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man that looks scary! how are you welding that bit in the boot section, head in the wheel arch?

haha yeah my ground clearance is pretty woeful but it's just the exhaust really, everything else is fine, stiff springs help.

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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 11:10 am 
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yes a very uncomfortable position with welding sparks dropping on my shirt and burning through. I cant see very well because the welding helmet is too big for the arches.

weld, weld, weld, let it cool, wire brush. weld, weld, weld....
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tedious stuff.

should I really neaten the welds and fill every hole with weld and smooth it all out, or just seal it real good with anti rust coating (like kbs) and seamsealer and a rubberised overcoat? doing that would be easier and as long as its sealed, its ok right? sometimes my welds make more holes :oops:


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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 10:56 pm 
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I spent most of the Easter weekend having scones, cholcolate, Tea and finishing the body work.

cleaned up the welding and was quite happy with it in the end. I'd rather not weld upside down again though. unfortunately (but good timimg I guess) I found some small rust holes when I wire wheeled back the old undercarage paint, so had to fix that up as well.
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I also put a few layers of KBS rust seal on both sides of the repairs (yes yes i sanded the crap out of the metal first) then covered it all with Raptor ute bed lliner which i had some left from doing the interior floor a while ago.
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came up quite well with a skim of filler and a lick of paint. there is only a few mm clearance with the door corner but thats all it needs.
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now I can have fat wheels and fat passengers :lol:


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