wow.. just read through this whole thread.. amazing machine mate, best of luck with it!

Nice project, looks great! Any chance you will part with it?

Every time I check up on this thread I love this car even more. I'm looking foward to seeing it in the flesh a Datnats 07' . Top work mate

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

Well,

Progress is slow at the moment. Design is all finished for the rear end. Got the parts laser cut up, and I'm going to be welding them in hopefully in the next couple of weeks (depending on work load ). Should turn out well..

Bought a couple of bits (understatement of the 21st century) from Datsport. Will post pics later on.

I've got a whole bunch of photos being taken, but I won't post anything until I have a complete set of the rear end finished!!!

Dean350, NOOOOoooooo...... Never!

Thanx for the feedback guys!

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Alright... Sorry for the long time between posts, but considering I am approaching the bottom of the members ride page 1, I thought it would be time to post the progress pics and whet your appetite, and show you what I have been doing for the past couple of months...

I have been designing an adjustable rear cross member. The pictures so far show the cross members being drilled out (using a radial drill) and a 4" hole saw. (102mm dia). Due to the depth of the hole saw, the inside of the original hole had to be oxy cut so two attempts at getting through the cross member could be made.

(Thanx neal for the cross member!!!)

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Using one of those magic 1mm cut off wheels removal of the exhaust holder section is a piece of cake...

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Now comes making the 4" section that gets welded in.

Basically (being a pedantic bastard), the first photo shows a flat piece of 2.5mm sheet metal, and the rolled (YES ROLLED!) section that has been tig welded right next to it. Basically I couldn't buy a section that was perfect for what I wanted and fit correctly, so I ended up cutting a section to length and rolled it until I got the right shape and then welded it with the TIG. It fits perfectly and isn't too much work. Plus you don't have to cut the ends to get it to size.

The section was welded in using the stitch timer function on the MIG.

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Looking good Nik!


Though someone needs to practice there oxy-cutting skilz...

Lurch runs.

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Classic Auto Fabrications:
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=31659

http://www.lescollinsracing.com/

I might be jumping the gun, but do you plan on removing and re-attaching the trailing arm pivot brackets to remove any distortion in the bushes when you adjust the suspension ?

ie work out what plane they should be in when the suspension is set up roughly how you want it, then re-attach them in that plane ?

Just curious, as I've got plans for my 180B's x-member that involve doing this.

Hope that made sense

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Lurch,

Yeah, you don't really care when it gets cut out! Plus sticking a torch in there is bloody hard considering the size of the damn thing, I really struggled.

Patience Dave, all will be revealed!
Pretty much yes... But wait and I'll post some piccies..

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Looking good Nik.... no worries with the crossmember (you paid for it!) glad its working out. I know you do everything 100%. Keep the progress pics coming.

Cheers, Neil

just read through your whole post.

sweeeeet.

cant wait to see the motor in there. will you stick with original turbo?

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sideways is the onlyways

Yeah, at the moment sticking with the T28. Will upgrade after I get the engineers. I'm going aftermarket ECU with a slightly larger turbo. Not 100% sure about what at the moment, but thought it would be best to do it all in stages... At the moment, i'm just trying to get the driveline sorted ready for the SR20!

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

More progress piccies,

Removing the brackets for the addition of the adjustable rear end was a real pain in the behind as I didn't have access to a 9" angle grinder. They really do make life easier for ripping material away quickly.

The basic method I used (just itching to cut something...) was to Oxy cut the existing brackets off as best I could (using a bloody big tip...) and then finishing the job with an angle grinder. Let me just say that I don't think it's the best way of doing it. In fact, I'd never do it again, and recommend nobody else (unless you are bored) to do it just because of the time involved...

Oh and Lurch, no comments from you about the oxy cutting!!!

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Alright, alright, enough of the stupid pictures of boring stuff, removing material (this is what I felt like when I was doing it!)

Note: The brackets are only tacked it place in these following photos. I have already welded the brackets in place and the assembly is nearly ready for powdercoating (just needs some cleaning up.)

Here's the goods...

The method of adjustment is basically similar to a mazda MX-5 or 1987 Nissan Skyline R31 import (with the IRS) or even a commondore etc... The Mazda has camber/toe adjustment on the A-arm suspension, and the Skyline import only has toe. Needless to say it works really well.

The IRS design I made has a slightly different roll centre which was pretty much designed around a lowered 1600, and of course adjustable camber and toe. Not to mention a few other modifications which I prefer not to mention at the moment...

The whole thing basically works by rotating the cams to adjust either the camber and toe depending on which side you are adjusting. The CAD model shows the direction the adjustment is (this model is showing camber) and the hex pattern surrounds the high tensile bolt head (no welding needed). So to adjust, you simply put your socket/spanner/wrench over the head of the bolt and rotate to your desired camber (in this case). It is basically neat and tidy, and hopefully works really well.

<more to be typed here when I can...>

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun