yeah some body places over here are going to SPC and Golden Valley and getting all the plum/apricot etc kernels, crushing them and using them instead of the plastic. much cheaper apparently but you need a fair few more of them.

bicarb blasting is cool - you can strip the paint off a coke can without warping it.

but yeah, plastic beads are the way to go. some yutz on Ausrotary had his RX4 BEAD blasted (like the sh1t they use for boats and older wartime vehicles) and his panels came back looking - well, unuseable.

_________________
frankenstein projects R us.

The Republic of Western Australia -
Propping up the Nation's Economy since 1901.

I ended up sand blasting alot of the sections on the 1600 with just some garnet and a portable sand blasting gun. It was really handy as you could remove all the rust without spending hours with an angle grinder and wire brush. Made it really easy to weld over too!

You are right though, panel warpage is a pain. It does take ages to get it right again.
As for the RX4 dude, I guess he should've started with a datto!

I only hope my car turns out as nice as yours mate.

I only had the areas sandbasted that woudn't warp. (All underbody,wheel archs, engine bay and door jams) The place that did my blasting does heavy duty blasting for industry and uses a very coarse grit.
I only went there cause they are 10 mins from my house and the painters.

I'm going to use your recomended "anti rusting" techniques on my project.
I don't wanna see rust for another 10 years atleast.

Top car you got there SR20Datsun.
You should be very proud.

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1975 P610/180B SSS ex PRC3 Rally car (parts car)
1974 P610/180B SSS (parts car)
1972 P510/1600 Currently sitting untouched
1977 P610/180B Wagon Daily Driver

Thanx mate,

I think you are heading in the right direction.
My paint still needs the final prep, but that should be done pretty soon. Should be able to do your hair in the reflection (well as good as white paint can go)

The tried and tested (well maybe not tested) SR20Datsun rust preventative measures will ensure your 1600 will stay rust free for the life of the car. (how's that for an advert?) Should be bullet proof. (well maybe I need a disclaimer on that one)

Thanx for the compliments mate, likewise with your car. She's looking sweet. Mate, anything to draw attention to our members ride section must be a good thing, so keep up the photos/spending money on your car!

-Nik

Moneys there to be spent.
might aswell spend it on what I love.

Is there any Brand of Fish oil that you would suggest I get ?
or is regular "fish oil" good enough...

I'm going to buy a garden pressure sprayer, the pump up kind and enlarge the nozzel hole for the fish oil. Then I can squirt that stuff into every oriface of the car.

any new photos of your car for us to drool over ???


Dave M

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1975 P610/180B SSS ex PRC3 Rally car (parts car)
1974 P610/180B SSS (parts car)
1972 P510/1600 Currently sitting untouched
1977 P610/180B Wagon Daily Driver

Alrighty then,

Here is the rear reinforcing section (should anyone wish to rear end me) which I am leaving on the car to give me a bit of weight in the rear end. (MMmmmm 50/50 weight distribution... here I come) It used to be a rear tow ball assembly, but I have removed the tow ball!

Looks ok, and is hidden by the rear bumper!!!

No major news at the moment, but now designing up a rear cross member.

As for fish oil, I recommend the K&H, as that is what I used on the doors, but the Wurth rust preventative is the ducks guts, and that is what I used on the chassis. The fish oil is good because you can thin it down using Turps, and spray it into all the hard to reach places, then grab the panel (door/bonnet/boot) and rotate it around so the oil gets into everything. I then leave it as it would be in the car for it to seep into all the places water would get.

Here are a few shots showing the current interior.
Geez that steering wheel is funny..
The seats are out of a turbo pulsar.. I am not 100% sure what model. But they are nissan, and didn't bolt in. I had make up brackets to fit 'em in. Still they should get me by until the Sparco Pro 2000's go in. (thanx Sean!)

You will notice that the carpet actually is just in the front upto the seats. This was done to make sure that fitting the roll cage wasn't going to get in the way!
Who wants passengers in the rear of the car? All they do is effect your spring rates, damping ratios and power to weight, and last but not least the clear view of the car you just toasted at the lights. (and maybe the smoke from the tyres, and the blown drive shaft that you just managed to snap....-hahaha)

The rag is factory...

Another shot of the interior showing the new paint! Plus the late model heater box assembly. (not to mention all the wires dangling in the background...)

Yes there is no firewall heat insulation. I removed it... We'll see how hot she gets, and then when the SR goes in, I'll possibly change it... At the moment, it's L18 glory in all its boominess! (plus the SU howl when you open up the side vents!)

Here is a manifold my old man 'knocked up' (engineering term) for his car. The one on mine is exactly the same but for an L18 motor instead of the L20). This allows direct fitment of an 1 3/4" Volvo SU to your L18/L20 motor. This gives good economy and torque, but the old man is going to make a twin SU intake for his car at a later date. So this one might be up for sale later on... (just not the SU!) Plus putting the SR in my car means that my SU manifold might be up for sale too!

Just make sure its "deodorised". My father used to work at the dockyard here in Newcastle and had a drum of industrial-strength non-deodorised fish oil that he used on his boat trailer.

I used it in the Datsun once, and it smelt like fish for months

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

DAVE!

Thanx mate for reminding me!
YES it MUST be deoderised!!!!
I keep on forgetting to add that when suggesting to use the fish oil... Hope no one has bought the non-deoderised stuff....

In addition to this you can add your own aftershave... (hahah)

DROOL..........

love that interior mate.

also whats up with the factory rag.....

Bring on Datnats 2007 I say.
I can't wait to see this car in the flesh.


Dave M

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1975 P610/180B SSS ex PRC3 Rally car (parts car)
1974 P610/180B SSS (parts car)
1972 P510/1600 Currently sitting untouched
1977 P610/180B Wagon Daily Driver

I wish I had Datto's as nice as you two guys...

_________________
Classic Auto Fabrications:
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=31659

http://www.lescollinsracing.com/

oh come on Lurch... your Z is nice.

I wish I had a 260Z.

Infact after my 1600 is finished I might consider a Z as my next restoration project.

_________________
1975 P610/180B SSS ex PRC3 Rally car (parts car)
1974 P610/180B SSS (parts car)
1972 P510/1600 Currently sitting untouched
1977 P610/180B Wagon Daily Driver

i must admit these two cars are both very very nice. I do prefer the whole car painting approach but understand it is silly if you are going to be spraying sound deadening all over it. still both of you should be proud and thanx for sharing the pics. motivates the rest of us.

keep them coming too.

which late model, would the heater box assembly be from??

Both you guys are doing things which most of the rest of us would like to be doing. Looking forward to seeing the finished articles some time. (well DatNats next year I guess!). Anyway I enjoy your commentary and photos. You have the hottest things going on Ozdat ATM!!

Cheers, Neil.