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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 9:24 am 
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Yeah, that's what I thought, but damn it, they are 13mm.

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (190-210kw @ 15-16psi.)
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6579
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 10:47 am 
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I don't think I have ever come across an M13 bolt! Good luck, hopefully you get the car driving and can have a little bit of fun over your holiday.

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green200b - aka Alistair

The fleet:
'80 200B GX - the green200b - hibernating
'81 RX-7 - 12A turbo, coilovers, 4.11 Torsen LSD - daily
'74 RX-2 - 13B bridgeport, 4.44 LSD - cruiser
'82 Hilux - 350 Chev, 4.3 Detroit Locker, 33s - 4WD

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Green200B has forgotten more about 200Bs than we will ever know.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2017 9:48 am 
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So I have finally made some progress with the newly assembled Y31 Cima diff from Les Collins.
Les removed the Cima pinion flange (larger diameter PCD) and replaced it with my R200 DR30. During this he also removed the ABS sensor.
Backlash was measured at 0.004"

I painted the diff housing, pressed in the side seals from my old R200 and spent a day cleaning and assembling up the rear ready for final assembly into the rear.
The suspension assembly is now assembled into the car, but I haven't had a chance to drive it just yet, due to some tweaks to the front end and not having easy access to tools required at the moment.


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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (190-210kw @ 15-16psi.)
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6579
M35 Axis Autech
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2017 9:58 am 
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Man, that backlash figure is great! the diff must hardly have been used. Best i got was 0.20mm but i don't have access to custom spacers either.

What's going on with the front end?

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2017 11:03 am 
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RJB510 wrote:
...What's going on with the front end?..
Trying to fit a 16 row oil cooler in the front of a Datsun that already has an intercooler and radiator and limited space without cutting a heap of stuff has proven difficult.
The radiator/intercooler is currently out of the car,
I modified a few of my existing radiator ducts trying to get the oil cooler to fit, but then decided that wasn't going to work. So I have to remake them and put the radiator back in. Before doing this, I will be finalising the oil cooler position, ducting and associated brackets for mounting.
Then assemble the whole thing and drive it.
I will also move my oil filter remote mount, and add in the oil thermostat.

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (190-210kw @ 15-16psi.)
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6579
M35 Axis Autech


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2017 11:17 am 
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Hopefully this diff doesn't give you any issues. even when you get a project registered and driving its never truly finished good to hear you are always trying to tweak things


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2017 11:25 am 
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You might not like the idea, but some of the hot datto's I've seen have the oil cooler in front of the drivers strut tower where the battery used to be?

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2017 12:34 pm 
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Yes I have seen those. They use a light removed when they are at the track.
It's a good idea for sure, but I want something that works all the time and wanted the low COG too.
I will be doing something similar to Turbovan and mounting in the gap near the engine on the passenger side just above the sump. Some creative ducting and she's done. I will be picking up air pressure from the front of the air dam using a duct made out of steel/aluminium (TBD). flows through a connector through my undertray then up into the shrouded oil cooler...


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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (190-210kw @ 15-16psi.)
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6579
M35 Axis Autech
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 9:42 am 
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Spent some time working on folding up the brackets for the oil cooler.
Seemed to work pretty well.
I am waiting on some parts to come in which will allow me to use a brake duct hose to provide cold air from the front of the car. The duct hole still has to be cut out along with fixing the duct inlet.
As per previous, I designed it up on SolidWorks and then printed out the flat pattern drawings in 1:1, stuck it on the aluminium sheet, cut it out and folded it. Works a treat.

Also spent some time re-making up the sheet metal guide/duct from the front of the car, under the intercooler and connects to the front of the radiator, stopping me from loosing all that nice high pressure air that was just flowing past. It was designed to pressurise the area between the intercooler and radiator and hopefully get some better temperature control. Seemed to work previously!
I modified the old one to try and place the oil cooler in a different position, but resorted to keeping this duct in place, so a new one was made up.


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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (190-210kw @ 15-16psi.)
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6579
M35 Axis Autech
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 9:50 am 
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I also purchased a Pare composite front spook spoiler in carbon fibre from Tony (who owns an orange datto on here).
Unfortunately the fit just wasn't right, so I had to resort to <cutting> it up to get it to fit. I decided to use aluminium brackets that are epoxied onto the carbon fibre. I contemplated using fibreglass to hold the aluminium brackets in place, but decided the epoxy was quicker and probably just as strong. (this is the 4000psi JB weld steel reinforced stuff). 4 brackets were made up in total and allow me to sit the spoiler in place without cracking the back off it.

I dummied them up with some race tape when fitting just to make sure it was all going to work and then glued them in place. There are 4 countersunk holes allowing a good bond of the epoxy onto the bracket and through it. I'm contemplating leaving the orange stripe that Tony painted on for that Mercedes AMG look... Lol :lol: I can use some thinners to remove it if I want.

I also drilled and tapped my remote oil filter to accept the VDO temperature sensor I was using in my sump. I am hoping this will allow me to monitor engine oil temperature better as it will be the oil coming straight out of the block, slightly cooled as it passes through some tubing, but closer than sump temperature to the real oil temp. It will be interesting to see how the temperature goes, not only on the road, but when I start venturing out on the track.


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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (190-210kw @ 15-16psi.)
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6579
M35 Axis Autech
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2017 8:33 am 
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Amazing work as usual Nik!

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2017 2:49 pm 
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Love your work, Nik. Looks like you're well versed in both forms of CAD - Computer & Cardboard :lol:

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2017 9:21 am 
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Thanks gents. Cardboard CAD is surprisingly good. I downloaded a license from a weetbix packet. Luckily I didn't loose my previous training from grade 1. I passed the 'cut on the line' exam. Been using it ever since!

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (190-210kw @ 15-16psi.)
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6579
M35 Axis Autech


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 25, 2017 9:19 am 
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Love your work Nik! Is this thing back on the road yet?

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 9:17 am 
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Thanks Trent! I think it's pretty close for some shake down tests to check the diff and check for oil leaks from the oil cooler!

Busy couple of months working on the car. It has been interesting working on this thing trying to figure out locations for everything.
I have completed mounting:
1. Remote oil filter (Aeroflow) which is what I was using previously, but just moved it.
2. Remote oil thermostat
3. 16 Row Setrab oil cooler
4. Numerous oil fittings and tubing routed to try and minimise rubbing and maximise ease of assembly.
5. Small undertray with a duct to allow plumbing from the front into the oil cooler. When I get time I will plumb this into the front spoiler somehow... The undertray fits around the SR20 sump and connects into the original under tray bolt in areas. Seems to do the job so far. Should also pull a bit more heat out from under the bonnet.

I'm pretty happy with the way it has all worked out. Second one should be a heap easier! (HAhaha)


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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (190-210kw @ 15-16psi.)
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6579
M35 Axis Autech
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