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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2005 8:42 am 
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James,

The Interior (cabin) was only bead blasted in the areas I told the guy to do it for the seam welding. Engine bay, and Boot area were all attacked with the plastic beads.

The sound deadening tar doesn't come off with the bead blasting, and you have to remove it by yourself with a scraper and a spray bottle of metho....(lots of work) I left the sound deadener where the passenger seats go (pads of the stuff) but everything else went. I removed most of it around the boot area but wasn't to pedantic with it, as there was only pristine panel underneath. Likewise with the deadener underneath the car, because I had the car on a rotating frame I could access the deadener and remove most of it in the critical areas for the seam welding.
A word of advice, REMOVE IT ALL!!! Nothing annoys me more than painting deadener over existing deadener and then having the old stuff fall off!!!

As for the cost, I would have to refer back to the receipts, but I think a bonnet was around $60, and the boot was a little cheaper, so around $600.
BTW, that is just a bare shell, with no glass, chassis components etc.
PLUS, doors were paint stripped, and the bonnet and boot where bead blasted.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2005 4:08 pm 
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I have fitted a sealed battery to my boot,

Here are a few photos showing the detail.

I used 35mm^2 BOC gasses Welder earth wire.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2005 9:39 am 
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Location: Sydney
Question in regards to the straps. Were they two pieces when you bought the box? The battery box I have has just the one strap going around it. Did you modify your strap?

Iggy


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2005 10:58 am 
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That's a good question mate!

What I ended up doing was modifying the straps so they would join onto the aluminium anchoring holders. So yes the strap was cut in two, and I got a place which specialises in canvas sewing to sew them up with crosses for strength.

The only reason I ended up doing it like this is to allow the strap to go all the way around the box, but at the same time not actually going underneath the box and the aluminium tray.
Plus with this design, the box really doesn't move around that much on the aluminium, but if it does, it isn't removing any paint!!! The aluminium holder was designed to pretty tight tolerances to hold the plastic box.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2005 11:09 am 
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Thanks!

Now I can successfully 'borrow' your design! :thumbsup:

Iggy


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2005 11:13 am 
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No worries mate,

Just make sure you get someone who can weld aluminium well.

OH, and don't forget to drill the holes through the rear chassis rail under the boot (where there are two steel layers) as this will stop the thing from ripping out when you get airborne, or hit up the back etc.... Alternatively you can use some plate underneath the car for strenth, or some really big washers...

PLUS, make sure you use a sealed battery... It's easier.


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 Post subject: nice nice nice
PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2005 12:44 pm 
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Location: Geelong, VIC
VERY NICE. :D :D :D

that is some inspirational body restoration.

if you don't mind me asking, how much would you estimate you have spent getting all the body repairs done? including painting?

looking forward to seeing more progress pics :shock:

cheers

tommo


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2005 3:56 pm 
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I have no idea on exact figures... (probably a good thing)

I think it cost me around $5-6k. BUT I would really have to add it all up AND I did alot of the work myself (including paint prep etc.), and the painter was fairly cheap too. I think I ended up paying around $170 for a day at the booth. (mates rates) and the painter was around $30 an hour.

This price would include:
Fish oil
Wurth rust preventative
Clean and Strip disks
Bead Blasting
Paint stripper (and the strippers.... :lol:)
Body filler
Welding wire/gas etc
Sheet metal
Thinners/Turps/Metho (for cleaning car)
Paint -Primer, Final coat, Spray Putty
Painter
Sikaflex sealer
Body deadener
Rubber grommets... (ha ha)
New glass (front and rear)
Rubber kit (full kit)
New head liner
Carpet

and anything else I forgot to mention.
Oh and I have $5K of motor (SR20DET) sitting there waiting to unleash it's 167Kw...

I should warn all that are out there, that this figure is fairly conservative, and like I said, I did everything properly. (so it will never have to be done again.)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 1:59 pm 
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hey sr20 just reading your build up again

So awsome the detail is so good

Do you have any more pics you wanna share

U said you had pics of it bare metal??

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 2:39 pm 
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Yup,

Bare metal on the rotisarie... Still have to find them and scan them in!

Got heaps of pics, but just have to wade through them all and put 'em in. Still trying to remember what I had on the last members ride post!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2005 9:23 pm 
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For those who are following at home:

I have fitted custom Trico windscreen wiper arms. This allows me to purchase the current style of windscreen blades and just clip 'em in. These arms have a slightly uprated spring load, and blade to glass angle over the arc of wipe. This should mean that when the S14 Turbo motor is in, I should be able to hit some pretty good speeds before I get chatter.

Thanx for these must go to the Test House guys at Trico Products Australia in Springvale Victoria (I used to work there as an Engineer). Pity the company is sweeping up and shipping out to China.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2005 9:28 pm 
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I have also fitted a C210 Skyline rear view mirror.

This bad boy was fitted with a new re-silvered glass because most of the C210 skyline rear view mirrors are pretty poor around the edges. The silver ends up falling off around the edges.

Re-silvering cost me around $22 from Varga Bros in Nunawading (Melbourne) These guys did a TOP JOB! And I would highly recommend them for their quality work.

The good thing about the C210 mirror is it's NISSAN! and secondly, SHE JUST BOLTS IN! -fully sik! :wink: looks factory AND you get the DIPPER!!!! :shock:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2005 9:40 pm 
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One of the best 1600 resto's I have seen. A true testiment to your hardwork and attention to detail, keep the pics coming. :applause:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2005 9:44 pm 
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Posts: 2620
Location: Lonsdale, South Australia
Nice job there, looks very very neat.
attention to detail has its rewards. 8)
love the visors :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2005 9:54 pm 
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Location: midland, perth, W.A
honestly man what the ****

looks like you got your hands on a 2006 model datsun 1600 a bit early...

I envy all your work excellent attention to detail

Whats you secret...

Jealousy doesnt give any justice how i feel towards your project

Please guide me to success "OB1"

Keep it up

_________________
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