This was the first run, before I worked out what tyre pressures worked best. I was still running the same pressure I use in hillclimbs (where the tyres don't have time to get much heat in them). Interestingly, I dropped a couple of seconds a lap by reducing the pressures for subsequent runs.

Any comments on how to improve my times are welcome - I'm still working it out even though this was my third trip down to Wakefield . A change in diff ratios is next on the cards - on quite a few corners I need a gear in between 2nd and 3rd.

I was happy enough - even set a PB of 1:23 and lapped consistently at 1:24 for the latter half of the day.

Photos of new radiator will follow when I find the cable to get them off the camera

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJgjdJfLr6Q

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

The old 1600 (and me) made the trip to Wakefield again yesterday for the Rotary Enthusiasts of NSW track day.

Only real change to the car was fitting an LSD (still 3.7 ratio, which still needs changing ) and bump steer spacers (which necessitated chopping 10mm off the end of the lower control arm as it fouled on the brake rotor). The LSD made it a different car to drive - no more buzzing the inside rear on most corners. Also seemed to reduce the excessive rear brake bias, although that may have been imagination. First time at Wakefield that I haven't managed to spin it anyway, usually caused by locking the rears. Best "feature" of the LSD was that I could get the car up my wet, slippery dirt and clay driveway, which has always been a challenge in the past Hard to tell if the bump steer spacers made any difference, as the track has been re-surfaced since I was there last. No more bumps !!

Still waiting for final official results to be posted, but was down to at least 1:22 on the times posted on the noticeboard throughout the day. And managed to beat a Porsche Boxter , although he may not have been trying THAT hard

Here's a video from another competitor in an RX7 chasing me down - the 1600 really lifts the front inside wheel going thru the "fishhook" left-hander (about 1:50 into the video).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tsBEBw0qAeI

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Dave,
Ive also have had problems with bumpsteer spacers and hitting Lca's,
just wondering what brakes your running and how much chopping you had to do...

Cheers,
Dan

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Dan.
Official organisor of Thursday nite pizza.

240K struts / brakes. Its only a real issue once the bump steer spacers are fitted, previously they didn't touch (well, maybe just a little touch as there was slight marks where the dust cover had been pushed against the rotor).

I had to trim it back so far that the "hole" for the ball joint is no longer a hole, but a "C" shaped opening.

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

NIce work Dave, my mate was down there in his series 6 rx7, think his best was a 1.13,
IM keen to go to one of these days once mine is finished

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1972 Datsun 1600

The RENEW boys have running these days down to a fine art - for the last two track days they've run, I've got around 40 timed laps in each time, plus more track time in the untimed passenger sessions. Very efficient and well run, and very friendly (even to a non-rotary owner). I'd highly recommend coming along to one of their days. I believe they have another day booked in at Wakefield later in the year, plus days at Eastern Creek and Oran Park.

And at the risk of offending the more Datto-centric people amongst us, some of the rotaries are damn quick

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Well, "Datnats" time means "working-on-the-old-1600" time

Latest updates are a nice new set of Toyo R888's , rear sway bar to try and stop it lifting the inside front wheel in turns (and the associated understeer), getting the windscreen wipers working (after a supersprint a few weeks ago at Oran Park in the pouring rain with no wipers ), fixing up the few minor bits of rust it had, AND AS OF TODAY, ITS ON HISTORIC REGO .

So, it will finally get to hit the streets again for the first time since 1998

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Fark yeah Dave, how'd you manage that ?

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Stephen,
Tanilba Bay Tyres & Mechanical - 4982 3599
Formally "Datsun_16_Hundred".

Thy Beast 1600
Datfusion

Although it looks a bit ordinary, its actually in pretty good shape. It has very little rust (and I've now fixed what rust it did have). Its surprisingly original, only runs an L18 with twin SU's. Its in excellent mechanical condition. It has an engineers certificate for pretty much all the modifications (and these were listed on the old rego papers I took with me). The paintwork looks tatty, but a lot of it is actually the original Datsun factory paint.

It was actually fully and legally road-registered in its current state in the late 90's.

Anyway, its all sorted now and all perfectly legal

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Quick thread hijack (sorry).

That's why I'm going for a rotary in my 1600

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What would you attempt to do if you knew you couldnt fail?

13B N/A powered 1600 racecar build (Built, not bought) http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=12316

Munch Munch, L series pistons for lunch

Not much work happening on the old girl lately (mainly because it just doesn't break, go the L18 )

Made the trip down to Winton a month or so back, for a best time of 1:52.

And earlier this month got to try out the new driver training facility at Marulan, south of Sydney Very tight, twisty and technical track where my top speed was only 98kph. Great facilities, great staff, well worth at least trying it once

Here's a few quick vids from the track day organised by the Sydney Datsun Club at Marulan. First one is on semi-slicks, best time 49.0secs.

Second one is the last session of the day, by which time I'd changed to old road tyres (got sick of wearing out the semi slicks, need to save them for a trip to Oran Park in December ), and trying a bit too hard :wacko:

Oh, ignore the subliminal images of dancing girls - my camera plays up occaisionally and doesn't correctly record over old tapes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkL2XgYZl4I

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=urxSQuSkDhM

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

hey Dave, did you have any thoughts about reducing the strength of the LCA by cutting so much off it, especially since you have to remove the lip? I am having the same problem with mine although evidently not as bad as you, and was considering hammering the end of the LCA back a couple of mm rather than chopping it. Thoughts?

I did think about it, but the 200B LCA's I was mucking round with at the time look even less robust than my "chopped" one so I thought it would be OK. Not exactly the most scientific way to work out if its strong enough, but its been OK so far (and its copped a hammering on ripple strips, etc at various track around the place)

Here's what 200B's have - the ball joint hangs out the end of the LCA.

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

I have cut every 1600 LCA I've ever owned due to the rotor rubbing issue never had a problem. Many others I know have also done the same thing. Engineer didn't care either.

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

engineer didn't care and engineer didn't notice are two different things tho haha

yeah trimmed a few in my time, sweet as

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LAGWAGON gracefully retired... LAG 510 - the next generation