[quote="Warps"]I have a V8 240K (that was regoed in QLD) and is going to receive a pair of turbos.]

If my current diff is better than the wrx then I'm the idiot I suppose. R200 LSD it is then.
What have you done to your brakes, diff, suspension and engine mounts Warps? also what engine is in it?

I'm now certain that my 240k booster is stuffed as my old valiant with no power assit at all stoped quicker than my 240k and I used to sail the val around town, it would linelock one wheel at 1100rpm and always had right of way on roundabouts. I'm putting the 318 engine out of that into the datto.

IMAGINE THIS
You have 2k to upgrade your 240k front suspension, brakes and steering. What do you do?

you visit http://www.hoppers.com.au, that's what.

and info on the different models can be had at http://www.datsunworld.com

_________________
frankenstein projects R us.

The Republic of Western Australia -
Propping up the Nation's Economy since 1901.

Thanks Pro that's what I wanted.

Anyone got any good leads on an R200 lsd?

P.s I bought my convertible for $1000 57000kms on the clock unregistered and not rolling or running but with engineers certificate. Cost me $2000 to register and do the head, calipers and carbies. I've clocked 190kmh in it down foreshore rd botany, it still had more left but ran out of road.

R200 LSD will cost you a grand at least. A cheaper option is a welded diff (a bit rough on the street, good on the track, and opinion is firmly divided on their safety for normal street use)

You can upgrade the front brakes by fitting Hilux or Landcruiser 4 spot calipers (bolt straight onto 240K struts) and vented discs (out of a Magna, some Hondas and Peugeots - depending on the strut / caliper combo). That's probably the cheapest upgrade that will give you a big improvement over standard.

Use a 7/8" or 1" master cylinder (some patrols and 280C had the 1" MC). Rear discs can be either R31 or R30 skyline - both will need a custom bracket to mount the caliper.

To improve handling, a good set of strut inserts (Koni, Bilstein etc) and good heavy duty lowered springs (bearing in mind the extra weight of the V8 ) will work wonders, along with poly bushes and good geometry (negative camber, positive caster). You can go for coilovers if you want, but the extra cost may not be justified unless you want to run at the front of the pack.

I have a P76 4.4L alloy V8 in mine, which weighs less than the L24. I'm replacing it with an EFI 3.5 Rover engine, which will receive the turbos. I'll be redoing all of the engine mounts and gearbox mounts, as I'm not at all happy with the existing design. It's a very long term work in progress.

hey warps could u post up a pic of your engine, be cool to have a look at a v8 in a 240K
cheers

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'77 240K GL

..Rare? Yeah you could say that.

i want to see the photos of this convertible

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Pro240c

Thanks for all the advice, you all have saved me from making some big mistakes. I would like to see a photo of you engine too warps, how far back does it sit?

I'm thinking of cutting into my firewall to give the engine more space would love to advoid it but I'm after 50/50 weight distribution so my engine needs to sit as far back as possible.

How difficult would it be to do the coilovers yourself?

I'm not a mechanic and I really like giving things a go but on the other hand I don't like things that are really fiddly and I'm not short of a dollar so I'm left wondering what I should do myself and what I should source out. I have a nice workshop and nearly all tools needed to complete the job in it's entireity.

I don't want to build a show car just a go car.

My budget over the year build will be about 14k.

Any more advice would be appreciated.

i have a lexus V8 with L6 datsun mounts, tiptronic controlled auto to match with an L6 datsun mount and a pair of turbos with all flanges i could sell you if you're interested...?

_________________
frankenstein projects R us.

The Republic of Western Australia -
Propping up the Nation's Economy since 1901.

Mals 1600 (was in readers rides) had 240K rotors with the twin sumitomo calipers. relaced them with his R31 brakes, std pads & claimed the R31s were better around town & superior when fanging tho the mountains.

Link to a previous discussion.http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.ph ... r31+brakes

but then again a 240K with all that extra weight
IMHO this would certainly fail the adr brake test, with either
340K or R31 brakes.

warps has suggested 4 pot calipers. follow his advice.

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"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

You're right Baz, brobably a bit extreme of me to say that the R31 brakes wouldn't be better. They're vented (so immediately better for heat dissipation), but smaller in diameter than the 240K brakes. Also, they are harder to upgrade because of the integral disc / hub setup.

You can upgrade the standard struts with the Hilux / Landcruiser calipers, and 11" vented discs off the shelf (again, which disc you use depends on the exact combo of strut and caliper).

Coilovers aren't the sort of thing your back yard mechanic can build himself. If he has a lathe (or access to one), and good welding equipment and talent (or access to it) then it can be done.

Because the V8 is shorter than a 6, it it sits about the same distance away from the firewall as a standard L series. It gives a lot of room at the front of the engine for a big intercooler and radiator, without things getting too toight.

Thanks for the offer but it's too late for that now, I have a centrifugal blower that moves too much air for the little toyota v8. Even though that engine was the sensible option with ones going for the price of my 318 stroker assembly alone I still choose to go the nonsense way of the old school mopar. Just think of the sound when it's a blown 390ci I'll change my name to 640k then.

In regards to the brakes I think I'll use the hilux/landcruiser setup maybe with some cross drilled discs although I've emailed hoppers as you suggested and am looking forward to hear what they say. Probably that I'm crazy like most do.

I've seen the light with the diff so will use the r200 unless it brakes with the blower attached.

Can't wait to get it out on the track but there's sooooo much work ahead I've just pulled V8 to bit's to rebuild and the datto is still 100% together.
I'll have some burnout videos for you all soon.

[quote="pro240c"]you visit http://www.hoppers.com.au, that's what.

Hoppers got back to me with prices ranging from 1100 (smooth rotors) to 1250 (crossed drilled) using BA disc and AU3 twin piston alloy calipers bolting onto standard 240k strut. 1" master for $200 using 240k booster.

When you take into account the price of a new brake booster (mine does nothing too small) the koni/bilstien shocks and new springs were above 2k and still on the standard 240k suspension.

I'm can't help but think as my car is now 30 years that I should change all of the suspension.

Thoughts Pro / anyone?

R32 struts?

all hoppers kits come with an engineer's report too, don't forget.

factor that into any other swap you do and i guarantee you hoppers will come out on top.

stick with the 240K suspension - it'll be fine.

_________________
frankenstein projects R us.

The Republic of Western Australia -
Propping up the Nation's Economy since 1901.

just get new springs and new inserts, and nolathane bushes all around and it will be 200% better than it is now. the hoppers kit is a great idea aswell.

looks really cool aswell the old convertible

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120Y Coupe- longest build ever!

The kit sounds good I admit but wouldn't r32 front struts/brakes be better?
Engineering isn't a problem for me so that bonus doesn't really count.

I'm not bothered if they were supra struts I just want (nearly) the best result possible and would prefer to install it all myself.

What about R31 rack and pinion steering? pro's con's?