SVD,
Thanks so much for the comments. It has been and continues to be a mammoth undertaking to fit in with everything else in life but a source of great happiness

-pete

_________________
"Cheating gets it faster"

I guess it's time i updated hey?
Well not a whole heap going on atm... well there is a whole heap but no dramatic changes in the car. I'm slowly working through all the machining etc required to finish this ITB conversion and also my new top end... should be unreal. i dont want to jinx myself but hopefully it will be ready for datsun day in november.
At the moment I'm just going though the car and cleaning up various bits to get it nice and clean and trim and in shape for a big drive down to the deni ute muster at the end of the month... anyone going?

Overall the Car is running like a champ with a good solid IGN and fuel tune atm... I'm thinking i should hit the dyno soon to have a baseline for the ITB swap.

I went for a short drive with a friend of mine the other day who took these photos... it certainly does the dash more justice than my rotten shots.
Also I know its really lame but I'm quite proud of solving my tacho problem... it was a bit of an epic electrical dilemma but for the first time since I've owned the car all the dash instruments are working tip-top




Now the big question... a 72 or 74 degree cam? opening the polls!!!

Cheeers,
-pencilhead

_________________
"Cheating gets it faster"

Lookin' good Pete!

Cam selection is yours to decide. I don't think there's much difference between the two you've mentioned though, is there?

The new head should flow well, so does the head really need a cam that'll move the torque curve to ever higher rpms? If you run a 4.3 or 4.6 diff, then cool, do it. I ran 4.8's in my 9 inch at one point in time and it was ballistic off the line but it was torque multiplication that did it, not the torque (or lack of it) at low engine rpm's which what I really wanted. With 4.8's around the back streets...excellent.... but on a drive to Newcastle for example it sucks. Big time.

Don't forget we've got 1.5 tonnes of Cedric to shove around Pete! On the other hand, it does sound cool to be lumping around, I know, but really?

There will be those out there that'll recommend the big cam route but ask them how heavy their car is. Guys with Sunny's, 1600's and 200b's are too light and even the 240K's C210's and ZX's are a couple of hundred kilo's lighter. Their cam choice will be different for that very reason.

There you go, my two bob's worth.

_________________
1971 240C P230 coupe L28 10.5:1 comp. N/A Haltech Elite 750. ITB's, tuned exhaust, 6 speed manual trans 4.625 LSD

'Nissantiques - Join the Club'

Mark,
I completely agree and understand everything you have said... however I'm still tempted to chase the screaming monster...
The problem is, after going to the JCCA show in tokyo this year I have the hots for these fire-spitting NA l6's, JDM rims and all-around japanese badassedry.
I actually picked up a 3.89 diff recently to help with longer drives but the car is never going to be a practical cruiser... i mean, that's just not what I've built; its a whale on steriods and amphetamine.

It actually handles pretty well at current and my current cam lasts well beyond 6k now that I have the EFI to support it - It's a pity I don't know the spec of that cam as it would be a great starting point, I only want just a smidge more top end top be completely nuts...

Here's a shot of my recent work on exhaust ports, I've spent a bit of time discussing the port design with Peter mac in victoria who is just a top bloke... this is the result. there's alot of reshaping there that should help de-restrict the L6 exhaust me thinks without encroaching on the water jackets.




-pedderrrrr...

_________________
"Cheating gets it faster"

I'm looking forward to going for a drive with you again when your engine work is done. That'll be cool.

Put your machine on the dyno, that's a good thing for baselines. I like the G-tech too because you can test your machine anytime. After the initial costs, it's probably cheaper but each has its advantages and disadvantages.

That head is looking good bro. Has that seen a flowbench at all? And its an R30 E88 too isn't it from memory?

Are you going to the Datsun Day again this year? Dave has told me to pull my finger out and get the 'other' car there this time. Ha....I'm trying!

Mad brought this quote home today from a friend at school....

"Obstacles are things a person sees when he takes his eyes off his goal"

_________________
1971 240C P230 coupe L28 10.5:1 comp. N/A Haltech Elite 750. ITB's, tuned exhaust, 6 speed manual trans 4.625 LSD

'Nissantiques - Join the Club'

Hey all...
Long time no post! Well I've been heaps busy recently however today was my birthday and as is customary for my birthday I like to drop a datsun bombshell... so here it is:




I'm still fabricating the fuel rail. hopefully have that up by the week and the new cylinder head in at the same time.
I've farted around with a lot of induciton combinations for this car.. the hope is that this one will be good enough that I shouldn't feel a desire to change in the next few years. The GTR manifold fits right on in cast i want to turbocharge!
I've been challenged by generating vaccum for the brakes and sensors - i'm running a vacuum line form each TB to a small vacuum chamber for this purpose but am open to alternative suggestions.

Big day today. Bed time.
Big thanks to all datto maniacs for sunday

-pete

_________________
"Cheating gets it faster"

Wooooo! Lookin good.

PM sent.

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1973 H230 Wagon, 'ILL-260'
1975 911S Targa
1978 Torana Hatch
1999 GXE10

Fantastic!

Yep, I think what you're doing with the vacuum issue will work just fine. Vacuum tanks are available, I know another of my mates, George, who runs an XA with a 351 and juicy cam and has one.

It's gonna sound awesome dude!

Yep, Sunday was sick....lets do it again ourselves and lets not wait until the next Datto Day. I;m thinking a national park where we can all meet and have a BBQ lunch or something...Lane Cove NP perhaps?

_________________
1971 240C P230 coupe L28 10.5:1 comp. N/A Haltech Elite 750. ITB's, tuned exhaust, 6 speed manual trans 4.625 LSD

'Nissantiques - Join the Club'

That sounds awesome Mark. hope you can catch me before i have to leave town...
Today I pulled the old cyl head off and drilled the throttle bodies for vacuum lines.
I've positioned the vaccum about 20mm behind each throttle. I hope this is far enough to maintain a good vacuum - it was the neatest place out of sight and clear of the exhaust- Thoughts anyone?

-pete

_________________
"Cheating gets it faster"

mmmmmm, tasty, nice work there buddy!!

_________________
1971 240C P230 coupe L28 10.5:1 comp. N/A Haltech Elite 750. ITB's, tuned exhaust, 6 speed manual trans 4.625 LSD

'Nissantiques - Join the Club'

so i had a bit of time this afternoon between exams so i put an hour of work in to put the new cylinder head on.
Everything lines up well. still need to adjust lines, linkages, fuel pressure, oil and coolant. Hopefully everything will just turn over smoothly but since there are some many variables (fuel pressure, throttle settings, and cam timing) I'm planning for a bit of a struggle with 1st start.




i'm a little curious as to what to do with the lower crankcase vent, this normally runs to vaccuum... should i run to a vacuum catch can or is it okay to vent to air?

Overall the new head looks clean and matches the intake well me thinks

_________________
"Cheating gets it faster"

I love what you're doing here Pete!

Crankcase ventilation is one aspect of engine performance that I'd like to persue along with windage.

I believe the vacuum extracts fumes and works to keep for a cleaner engine internally. The minor negative pressure helps to reduce oil leaks so therefore I would be looking at ways to retain it .

The greater the vacuum in the sump/crankcase area the less likely the oil is going to cling to the rotating crankshaft. The rotating crank creates a low pressure area so some oil is encouraged to 'cling' to the crank because of this. If you can lower the pressure in the crankcase, then there's no reason for the oil to clink to the crank. Oil whip consumes power, so I've looked at crank scrapers too. I have one ready to go into my stroker engine that I'll start to build 'soon', probably next year.

But what you have there looks awesome mate!!

_________________
1971 240C P230 coupe L28 10.5:1 comp. N/A Haltech Elite 750. ITB's, tuned exhaust, 6 speed manual trans 4.625 LSD

'Nissantiques - Join the Club'

I just started this thing up...
ignition timing had to be backed off ridiculously to get a smooth idle but it runs nicely now... and oh my god it's nuts!!! The induction noise give the impression bypassers and small birds may be sucked in and shredded when you blep the throttle.

The head itself is quite aggressive - A r30 e88 head with tomei valve springs, cc'd @10:1 compression, l28 valves, 40mm intake ports, a 72* cam from SW motorsport. The head was prepared by Graham wilkins who assembled the valvetrain geometry and also touched up the porting.

This thing should be a monster. I just need to finalise my throttle cable and clean up my wiring and should be able to test drive. Hoping for some aggressive dyno numbers on my original l26 block!

Might have a video up soon... we'll see how it goes

-pete

_________________
"Cheating gets it faster"

its raining out so no video yet
I have been doing some basic tuning on this car. I'm slowly getting there but since this is entirely unlike anything I have run on the car before I having to generate entirely new maps for both spark and fuel - which is time consuming. I've slowly progressed from stumble at throttle to drivable response. This has allowed me to take the car for a drive to day - generating more data (yay data!).
So far I haven't hit any detonation. My AFR's are getting messy especially when there is initial throttle. also I am modifying the vacuum piping subtley to attempt to clean up my map signal(which is quite bouncey meaning i'm depending on TPS enrichment quite alot). I'll let you know how this goes. MAP signal issues are a pretty standard ITB issue and there are multiple approaches to dealing with this.

I would also Like a good water pump if anyone knows a source? I want a pump with a cast impeller not a crappy sheet metal one.

Overall In order to get more power I think I need to clean up my Accel enrichment values and really hammer the ignition - but i'll move the latter incrementally.

Filters and trumpets arrive from the states will post photos/video of complete setup soon! one of the thing I'm very happy about is the idle is very smooth. A big cam and ITB's is supposed to be a headache to idle, so far its been a smooth 850rpm dream so a pleasant surprise there - another win for fuel injection.

I'm also thinking I should push my fuel pressure up >42psi. Anyone have any thoughts on this? I'm hoping it might help stabilise my accel enrichment response which is initially very lean on throttle atm(but comes down after the MAP gets a signal).


I will conquer ITB's and make them sing.

_________________
"Cheating gets it faster"

I have those water pumps you're after Pete......

Good to see you again on the weekend mate. Glad to hear you're progressing with the ITB's. Fuel pressure isn't the whole answer, you may only get the response you're after using the TPS as your main signal base for tip in response ie accel enrichment, followed by MAP signals but you're a lot more familiar with Megasquirt.

Hand me a screwdriver and a few jets and I'm at home.

I'm looking forward to trying megasquirt myself, a new harness is on its way to my place as we speak. Hey, why not, I'm not that old.

_________________
1971 240C P230 coupe L28 10.5:1 comp. N/A Haltech Elite 750. ITB's, tuned exhaust, 6 speed manual trans 4.625 LSD

'Nissantiques - Join the Club'