The reverse sensor is the one closest to the front of the gearbox. I just went through the same process myself with mine, I used the same gearbox and still don't know what the other 2 are for...!

Digging the Cragars on your car, looks the part!

Thanks Snoozin, Ozconnection had already told me but thanls for reafirming

I think you might find the other 2 are to do with the emission control. Some manufacturers used to control the advance I think in the lower gears when cold.

Cheers, I've neatly tied those 2 others up and out of the way.

Four EFI manifold bolt holes drilled and tapped. Injector ports die grinded out.



L20A EFI header fitted. Not going with extractors this time but will go with a 2.5" exhaust.



L20A EFI manifold resting in place but not quite in the right position.





This is the air bypass valve I think? It's hitting the aircon unit preventing the intake manifold from bolting up to the head. From looking at the aircon pump I believe it's aftermarket so it's fittings are in a different spots to factory. The ABV isn't even hooked up, when I removed the manifold from the donour car there weren't any wires dangling or taped up. I was thinking of just removing the ABV and fitting a blanking plate since the donour car drove fine before I stripped it.

I think that thing hitting your AC pump is to allow air and gasses out of your crank case. When you have a little blow by past the rings the crank case gets positive pressure which needs to be released. I think that if you block that up your dip stick may blow out, pending on pressure.
Mick

Wow, good progress. The thing hitting your A/C compressor isn't really needed, you could remove it and build a blank off plate to cover it up. It's been so long since I've done this, double check that a plate to cover things will work! (its a cold engine, keep the revs up type of thing, stops when the engine is warm ie EFI choke or air bypass valve if you prefer)

A P65 intake....has the reputation of being a torque monsta manifold. Theory has it that it has very very long runners that give lotsa torque for the little L20A engine to push around 'big' cars. On an L26.....wow! I'm super interested because I have the same manifold here but have never used it. I have every intention to, but it seems like you'll beat me to it!!

Keep up the great work!!

_________________
1971 240C P230 coupe L28 10.5:1 comp. N/A Haltech Elite 750. ITB's, tuned exhaust, 6 speed manual trans 4.625 LSD

'Nissantiques - Join the Club'

Hi Mick, are you talking about the blue pipe coming out of the side of the block? That's actually not hitting the A/C, but is close. I'm actually going to cut it down to half it's normal length before I hook it up. I'm talking about the black thing with the green label under the throttle body. Definitely an air bypass as it has a hole either side of the butterflies.

If I blank it off I'll leave the plunger inside to keep the hole behind the butterfly sealed. On the other end of the manifold is a pipe that goes from the intake manifold to the header, I'm assuming an emission thing to put fresh air in the exhaust? I'm also thinking of removing that aswell, blanking it off and getting rid of those two diaphragms that open and close it.

Ahh yeah I see now. Yeah I was looking at the pipe hanging out the side of the block.
Sorry my bad.

All good =)

Anyon know if the different coloured injectors is normal? There's green, pink (may have been red) and lime green or dirty yellow.

This is a mock setup of the MAF sensor, I'll be using a short K&N pod which should fit without hitting the aircon canister. I know it'll be sucking in hot air but there's not much I can. Ideally, it would be good if I could copy the 280ZX setup which is having the airbox/pod outside the engine bay behind the bumper, but to do that with the Cedric would require cutting of metal.



If the charcoal cannister and that little reservoir inside the fender weren't there I could have half a pod sitting inside the fender.





I had to cut and shut a length of the original Cedric accelerator rod to make it work with the 280ZX manifold. It was the right length but it needed to be twisted slightly. If I had an oxy torch I could of just heated it up and twisted it to the correct angle cut I don't, all I have are my trusty angle grinder and arc welder.





Thought I would throw this in, the tag of the import 280ZX that I wrecked.

I'm getting ready to do the fuel system, I just wanted to figure out a few things.

The factory fuel supply hard line for the old carby is 6mm inside diameter, is this acceptable to use for EFI?
If not I'll have to run rubber fuel hose the length of the car, but is 8mm or 10mm inside diameter the better one?

Also, I'm having some issues with the 280ZX clutch pedal. It sits nicely but the master cylinder fork won't reach it. What clutch pedals are you guys using in manual conversions?