I'd say your build is a slight step above mine. The body mods on your car are what I should've done to my 1600.
Still we all have to start somewhere!
Keep up the good work. You'll get there in the end, and it will take you ages to wipe the grin of your face when you drive it..

_________________
1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Phoarr,
anymore waiting and Ill have forgotten about this thing.


As mentioned, the chrome bumper has been axed in favour of a glass unit from japan. chopped for cheaper postage reasons. Still has bolts and seams molded into the glass version. Odd. They will be smoothed over.








Hard to see, but I borrowed Glenn MArtins front spare gaurds and copied the rearward support for the glass gaurds on mine, as they lacked sufficient support close to the door. Feels solid on the car now. The front wupport looks way out, but a little shaping and urethane will sort it.









I picked up a pair of racetech wide's in glass with Ally mounts from Mr Black in Chch, who has helped with a great price. Seats were fresh off the press and sent that day. They fit me well, but not the car well. We will remove all the exisiting seat mounts in the S30 chassis, and look to make a section of floor lower than the rest, so my head&helmet has clearance to the roof. Ill detail this next time. The steering wheel is close enough to me, probably not requiring movement rearward, or replacement with a dished wheel.
A sliding rail will sit below the alloy side mounts to give some fore/aft adjustment.



















The front gaurds had no face to bolt the headlight buckets to, so a steel equivalent was made and joined to the gaurds, bogged over. This will allow me to run the stock lights, buckets, chrome rings for the factory look.












The gaurds are on and shaping work started. They need more work around the lower edges, but generally there.
What an effort tho, chopping up the steel units would have been easier. Need to move that front bumper edge away from the flare, its too close.






















Inspection flaps cut back in. We had placed an oil filter and washer bottle accessible under them, so thought Id better get the flaps back in. Cut/place.
A new catch has been made - area in red in pic.














New old stock chrome S30 mirrors from Japan.














To avoid the bonnet pin crap look, aerocatch install planned. Since the bonnet has its structural rim on the underside that covers over where I was planning to put them, another catch will be made, similar to the inspection flaps closing mount. Thye are lockable, fit almost flush, and seem to look OK on other customs Ive looked at.










The front requires some 'air giudance equipment'. i.e. make sure we get sufficient airflow across the desired areas, its a pity the bonnet swings back into it all when opened....
The front inner part of the nose has been strengthened up, as it wasnt able to support itself in the right shape. The numberplate mounts will go.

this things gonna be such an animal. Progress looks good mate keep it up!

_________________
Simon,

1978 Stanza, undergoing track spec build.

Thanks Simon appreciate the words

A mate came round and showed me what he's been doing in his spare time, over a beer and grub.

Its the intake pipe ( air filter to turbo intake) I wansnt 100% with, Im looking for the japan style many welds look It would do very little to airflow vs pressure drop over the original 'digital' version, 45 degree angle styles.
Looks smooth, and is a mock up. Test fit it today and works ok. We might swing the air filter horizontal, rather than up/down, being the only change.

,


this looks shizen

























this looks ok

Let it be known that the reason that I went with the G-nose is that the misses reckons 'it looks classy' (compared to original front with spoiler).

The g-nose looks like a frogs face, its long and the overhang over the front wheels can look too much. With chrome headlight rings/covers and mirrors I'm hoping it balances out a little.


Ultimately I want someone who knows NOTHING about cars to look at it and say, 'beautiful car'. It'll happen more often with the G-nose, after some quick (mostly female) market research.

No dodgy body kits eh, nothing stays the same eh!





OLD












NEW












Bonnet is on and some cutting and repositioning of the frame has been done. It needs more work to straighten up the shut lines.
Catches are next. G-nose hinges were part of the G-nose deal from Kapiti Mike. Hinges are single pivot, not double like the standard ones.
























Areas to further tidy up;
Gaps;















Some fat to trim, under front guard;










Arches looking the part, kiwi style





















some more stuff to chop out, all the tabs gone please.
Don't want a dirty numberplate hanging in the middle of my precious airflow.
Where will you go? Hmm...














Right side front arch to complete










Time to get more help to fast forward to/through the next stage.
- Rip out everything inside, dash,heater etc. Prepare for sandblasting the inside of the car smooth.
- Rip out all drive train and review engine bay. Require some re-work, old harness clips removed, holes filled etc.
- Cleanup of old colour paint around front wheel wells, some of it is flaking off after applying paint to tar under seal too soon.

Better dust of the overalls

This will look awesome when painted mate, cant wait for updates

_________________
Simon,

1978 Stanza, undergoing track spec build.

bullet proofing the headlight to gaurd area




bonnet shut lines looking better



attach gaurd to inner support, more bullet proofing. Imagine this dodgy body kit peeling off on the motorway....













Bonnet looking smooth to the rest now



to fix the gaps at the end of the flares, we had to break a few eggs to bake the cake



Bonnet catches in











welting in for the front gaurd, looks kinda overkill, might look at some smaller profile stuff





rear bumper in one peice and shaved of its lumps and bumps








the panelbeater has finished the body now, the seat mounting is left, and a quick beating of frame rails under the floors and we are painting.
I will probably pull the engine out soon and get the engine bay tidied, since its had a lot of work done around there.

Bout bloody time you updated this!

Keep 'em coming

Spent a few hours tidying up the inside of the car, removing the 'not that old' sound deadening and foam stuff, so that the sandblaster can do its thing soon.
Gives us a chan ce to fill the multitudes of holes throught the firewall, tunnell, floors that have been made, and many not required.





















the next step for me is to get the engine and box out for a final fling at the engine bay, which requried some work, harness tabs, holes, weld splatter, its all there and needs to be sorted.













The stock seat mounts fouled the proposed seating rails, mounts and seat itself, so have been drilled out, leaving a smooth floor on the drivers side.
Im still sitting too high, so along the outside chassis section, there is a 45 degree angled floor section that joins the floor to the inner sill. The outside mount fouls this, so by dropping the 45, we can gain 3cm maybe. Ill try that, and if its not enough, the whole floor drops under the seat, to gain the head room for me - 191cm, + helmet, which is hitting the cage & hoop.


The handbrake also requires re-positioning, since the seats are wider than usual. On top of the tunnell, mounted further rearward will do fine. Could go for a floor mounted by the pedals, but a quick acting, accessible handbrake is important.
















Bonnet catches are in, with mounts securely welded to the front cage bar. Catches are lockable, sit above bonnet just a touch, after a paint should blend in enough.
























Now here is something that could kill the project....
I know there is talk of recession, even more recently talk of 0.1% growth in the economy.
Im betting for great growth in my business, so In this majikal plan of growth and earnings, Ill need somewhere to throw a portion of this wedge.
















Dont stress, the car will continue as is, but with a small backroom project to gather necesary parts to make it happen later IF majikal plans come together.

Any updates on this car dude?

I'm hanging to see the thing done.

The next and last panelbeating stage is the small stuff.










Engine & box out to tidy up the engine bay






















Help accepted from all arigato Miu









Work completed to lower the seat & rails, have suitable clearance for head height/helmet.
The cage has a lot to answer for here.
Where the inner sill and floor pan meet there is a 45 degree section to meet each other.
This is made perpendicular, dropping the seat maybe an inch, all vital gains for my swede











Issues still apparent,
- left elbow/funnybone rests on side intrusion bar of cage, this will become very annoying after a few metres drivin,
- suggest remove each side and notch, make a bend in the bar to clear elbows and reweld both sides of the car.
- Steering wheel too close to body, get a more narrow profile boss kit for steering wheel, easily done.

- handbrake needs to be relocated
- battery mounted low and rearward somewhere.






















While we complete the final tin work, Ill take the time to drag a GTR box/transfer case down and see if the transfercase will clear the seat mounts/rails.

Looks tight.








Front glass work included making the nose section more rigid, keep some vague shape while at speed.

















Playing with front diff position at home, now suitable for current engine position in the zed.


BEFORE








AFTER








If I spread this lot around the bedroom, Id get the misses on board to complete the car....

So its another trip down to see the man John, and to run through what needs to be done.

Since Id rather have everything fitting as it should, he grabs the light covers back to fit them, make the holes etc.











Same goes with the mirrors, they need a backing plate under the gaurd to ensure they dont disappear at speed. Ill email him some side profiles of some zg's so he can put them where they should, all looks while little chance of them being of much use...









A battery should live some place at the rear end on the passenger side, mounted low. Ill bring the gas tank back down next weekend. Ill leave the XXXL battery box alone and place a smaller gel battery in there.








The seat still doesnt fit as well as it could. I cant move to a smaller seat due to me body shape, so its further choppin required. The sill area gets a full length step down from last time, and completed on both sides of the chassis. Ill also remove the seat runner on the drivers side to gain an inch, and make the seat position somewhat unadjustable. The seat brakets so allow different positions, but not easily done while in traffic..










Ill also make a right angle against the trans tunnel to gain a little more room, to also get the seat shoulder off the roll cage on the door side. There is a small indent to the tunnel at the rear of the seat mount, so cut it out!







Bloody seats! Who choose such a small chassis>?

Handbrake issues, bought a GTR handbrake for a few bucks, seems like a suitable option. Will sit on top of the tunnel, but dropped into the tunnel a touch so it doesnt sit too proud.








What is a half decent idea, is to see if a GTR box (R32) would fit into the chassis (if at any stage in the future I need my head read to progress with 4WD).

May as well do it now since its here.

you really feel this thing in the boot rolling around...









It may not fit due to the .....seats?
Lets do a rough check,







Itll be the inner seat bracket to transfer case being the issue? Maybe...er..








Hmmmm, looks kind of ok actually, the gods are smiling..
The white outline is roughly where an obtrusion would eminate from the tunnell, sitting under my knees, so there is plenty of room actually,







What about this driveshaft going to the repositioned front diff>?
Extend a small section of floorpan to accomodate,








So then, to mock fit this box in, Ill bring the RB26 dummy block down next weekend, and move forward with this trial fit.
There is not much destruction required, apart from cutting of the existing gbox mounts, but they can be rewelded on later when the RWD box goes in.
I may as well make the GTR one fit, itll be easier now than later.

Damn, where's the fast forward button?