Should have just needed a screwdriver to get the lid off, although I may have rounded the slots in a few of the screws due to not being able to find a proper fitting screwdriver bit for the drill . May need a hammer to remove that bit running across the middle though - its nailed and glued in place

I'm no expert on L6 flywheels, but I assume the one that came with the gearbox was lightened ? Looked to have been machined down, especially around the ring gear.

_________________
1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Yes I have been 'hamming' it up a bit - the lid was easy to get off
Don't know about the rest though

It's definitely been lightened Dave - I should probably weigh it...

_________________
Classic Auto Fabrications:
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=31659

http://www.lescollinsracing.com/

Well, for the most part, you can't just rev an rb26 to 9,500 unless it is either highly modified and/or was one of the n1 engine blocks that had stricter balancing and blueprinting from the factory. My understanding with the run-of-the-mill rb26 bottom ends is that the crank harmonises at 8,000 rpm or something which is why the redline is normally set around 7,500 (ie it's not a problem with the flow of the head as much as the bottom end hardware).

It is true that the increased piston speed on the rb30 does somewhat reduce how hard it can be revved, but there are a few people doing some pretty amazing things in terms of getting these 3.0's to spin fast.

I mean, all modifications being equal, a shorter-stroke motor will rev harder, I just think the 3.0 represents an acceptable trade-off and in the end may still make more peak power.

I'll know the outcome of my phase 1 mods on the r32 shortly, will let you know if I find out anything useful.

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My r32 GTR in Autospeed

another thing to take into consideration with high RPM is the size of your stroke, if you have a 3L with a big stroke v's an 2.6L with a smaller stroke, ofcause the 2.6 will rev higher. + the 3L being SOHC not DOHC like the 2.6.

the way i see it;

Big stroke = Torque over > power.

Small stroke = Power over > torque.

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Stephen,
Tanilba Bay Tyres & Mechanical - 4982 3599
Formally "Datsun_16_Hundred".

Thy Beast 1600
Datfusion

Thank-you Captain Obvious

Nothing wrong with the SOHC heads either (ignore the fact that it's in a VL):
http://ozdat.com/membersites/lurch/hsvsux.html

_________________
Classic Auto Fabrications:
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=31659

http://www.lescollinsracing.com/

No worrys, anytime big fella.

_________________
Stephen,
Tanilba Bay Tyres & Mechanical - 4982 3599
Formally "Datsun_16_Hundred".

Thy Beast 1600
Datfusion

There's nothing wrong with the VL head per se, but it has had it's time. The twin cam rb heads are so much cheaper and more available now.

Sorry if I'm hijacking the thread and turning it into a discussion on hybrid conversions, but:

If you had to get the rb25de head (for an easier conversion, or whatever) I would definitely pay the extra for the NVCTS version. I used to own an r33 GTS-t and with a big single turbine you need all the bottom-end response you can get.

However, overall I would go for the rb26 head. I picked one up recently for $650 (all valves, springs, cams etc - they come up for sale regularly on SAU). The advantage with the rb26 is that you get the individual throttle body setup, you can use the twin-turbo setup (which, with appropriate port-matching of the OEM cast-iron manifolds, can be made to be very responsive even with significantly larger turbos) and you don't have the cross-over pipe on the plenum, so there are no bonnet clearance issues. And of course it flows better.

My 2c.

_________________
My r32 GTR in Autospeed

nice clean job of the door skin removal are you going to copper spray the skin b4 going back on and sikaflex the seams extra drainage ect

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1600s arent the only datsun

I have already rust proofed & painted the inside of the door skin before it was put it back onto the fame.
And it'll be sealed before it's properly painted

_________________
Classic Auto Fabrications:
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=31659

http://www.lescollinsracing.com/

I bought myself a new toy on Saturday
I can't wait to properly use it...

_________________
Classic Auto Fabrications:
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=31659

http://www.lescollinsracing.com/

wtf is it ?

A big spagetti roller ??


ahaha

_________________
Stephen,
Tanilba Bay Tyres & Mechanical - 4982 3599
Formally "Datsun_16_Hundred".

Thy Beast 1600
Datfusion

sheet metal cutter/bender?

_________________
Simon,

1978 Stanza, undergoing track spec build.

Spot on Simon. It's a 3in1 unit

_________________
Classic Auto Fabrications:
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=31659

http://www.lescollinsracing.com/

looks snazzy, i havent gotten to play with one of them since high school.

_________________
Simon,

1978 Stanza, undergoing track spec build.

I finally finished the rust repairs this long WE, but between the on again/off again weather & the olds having a very distracting
'Inebriated Geriatrics Party' I really didn't get a lot done...
Unfortunately one edge I welded did 'suck' in slightly even after cooling the weld down (damnit!), so it'll require a thin skim of filler
(BTW my new toy is teh awesome!!!)

_________________
Classic Auto Fabrications:
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=31659

http://www.lescollinsracing.com/