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 Post subject: 1600 wiring help...
PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2004 2:46 pm 
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Location: Datsun Mafia Headquarters
Before I start I will say, yes I do have a wiring diagram...

I bought a reasonably stock 1600 a few months back that doesn't run, now I have finally got around to having a look at why it doesn't run... Amongst other things, the wiring loom has been cut near the ignition coil. There are 4 wires coming out of the loom that have been cut: black (B), yellow with a green trace (YG), black with a white trace (BW), and black with a blue trace (BBL).

The problem is that the wiring diagram says that there should be a series resistor (I assume the coil resistor) and this car didn?t come with one (removed presumably). So was there one standard in the 1600?s? If so, how do I wire it up? If not, how do I wire it up? The wiring diagram has a Black with Green trace wire and no mention of the Yellow with Green trace that has anything to do with the coil...

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Especially if it was in the form of something like, buy a XXXX resistor (or get one off a wreck), connect the black to the negative of the coil, connect the BW and BBL to the positive of the coil, connect the blah blah blah to the resistor, etc.

Thanks in advance! :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2004 3:13 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2003 4:58 pm
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Location: Adelaide.
Yes, the stock 1600 used an ignition resistor.
It allowed full battery voltage to be applied at cranking speed and a reduced voltage when running.
YOU MUST HAVE a coil suitable for use with the resistor :!:
There are a few unused wires in the vicinity of the coil and from memory one is the YG wire which I think has a female bullet connector on it for connection to an engine bay trouble lamp for example.
The B wire from the distributor should go to the -ve end of the ignition coil.
The +ve end of the coil is the BG wire which should go to the ignition resistor as does the BBL wire.
The other end of the resistor is the BW wire which, via a fuseable link, picks up a +ve feed from the fuse box.
From the above, the "start" ignition source is the BBL wire (no resistor), the "run" source is the BW wire (via resistor).
If you choose to use a coil which does NOT require a series resistor, then you will have to connect the BG, BBL and BW wires together :wink:
Rots of ruck :roll:

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Last edited by Nissanman on Tue Feb 24, 2004 6:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2004 5:10 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2003 2:32 pm
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hey bede, just another option that is also open, not sure what u have left in ur spare parts bin, if u have one yet :x . but other option would be just to piss the points dizzy off, and replace it with a electronic one,(bluebird) but remember use the coil that goes with that dizzy!! new plugs and leads too i spose. food for thought :wink:

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 Post subject: 510 wireing
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2004 4:10 am 
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Posts: 807
Location: Covington,Wa USA
As the privious person mention.

The Black wire /white stripe(thicker gauge) wire will go to one side of the ballast resistor(1.6ohms). This is your =12volts when the key is in the ON position.

There will be Black wire/w blu stripe. This comes from the START position on your key switch. This bypasses the ballast resistor to give full 12volts to the coil. +side
T
Then there is a Black wire w/green stripe. This will go to the other side of the ballast resistor.
But in my Haynes manual the black/blu & black/grn are really the same wire they just Y off to 2 points. Mine was under the black electrical tape. This means you can just daisey chain the blk/blu wire from the +side of coil to the ballast resistor if confused.(if no blk/grn wire is found)

YOu can ck this by disconnecting the battery wire to the starter and but he key in the START position and ck for the 12 volts.
Same with the Fuse 12volts in the ON position with the Blk/wht wire.

If using the latter matchbox type nissan ignition you can as one said just hook up the blk/wht,blk/blu to the positive side of coil. The match box distributor will have 2 wire but forgot which goes where. one + the other neg side of coil.

Ballast resistor is used to lower the current for the points (burn them up) But need full 12 volt under cranking for current drain going to starter.


I have a Pertronix conversion which replaces the points but is a simple 2 wire hook up. Uses the stock ignition wireing.
Part#1741.


My 510 has more wiring but I will assume yours is a single blk wire off the point to neg side of coil.

In the states we have a 3 rd gear switch and a funky relay whick kicks in a second set of points. But most people get rid of. I have a SSS L16 with the Pertronix conversion.

also the yellowwire with grn strip might go to the brake portioning valve. That sould go eventually to the dash with the brake light. Mine is not hooked up but Have no light on.
Or either the yellow/ green wire goes to the temp sender. But you can figure that out.

hope this helps.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2004 10:35 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 11:06 am
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Location: Datsun Mafia Headquarters
Thanks heaps guys for your help!! :D

Now I just need to find the Black with Green Trace wire... and get a ballast resistor from somewhere. Damn people that just cut wires.

Bill, I would love to put an electronic dizzy off a series 2 bluebird on the car but I don't have any and they are getting harder to get.

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 Post subject: 510 wireing
PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2004 2:07 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2004 9:17 am
Posts: 807
Location: Covington,Wa USA
Dazda,

All you need is the BLK wire w/white stripe and the Blk wire with blue stripe to get this going.

Remeber in my early post the Blk/blu wire will Y out to 2 points. One wire stayed the same wire color Blk/blu the other Blk/grn.

--------blk/grn- ballast resistor---blk/wht 12v
Blk/blu ------Y
-----------------blk/blu +side coil


The dwg that I made didnt come out quite right but the top blk/grn is the same as the blk/blu.


hope this makes it ezer but you should have the wireing diagram already. Just get some wire at the store and some nice knife splices(and piggy back connectors) to make this look good.


Maybe should look at a Pertronix conversion. You can use your single point dist.

In the states the later single point L20 dist have a ring boss just above the point lobe which keep the magnet ring in the Pertronix kit from fitting on the lobe. But can be put in a lath to cut it off so it would fit. Put if a L16 small cap distributor it will fit in no proplem. Part#1741 Some MG guys should know where to get these. They are popular for them

Also use a stock point type coil.
The latter nissan ones run on full 12volts(dont use)
A autoparts store will have ballast resistor 1.6 ohms


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2004 6:43 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 15, 2003 9:34 pm
Posts: 156
Location: S.Isalnd NZ
Some of the earlier cars ('68-ish ) didn't have a resistor, which might explain why it's missing ? Electronic ign. is a good upgrade if you're browsing the jyards though :)


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