Hey guys, just a quick question. Where have most of you wired your electric fuel pumps up from? Reason I ask is that my pump suffered a definite drop in pitch, which I have to assume is gonna be related to flow rate. I'm assuming that leaves two options - a wiring thing, or my pump is on the way out...

I followed the wires back, and the pump is wired in off the coil, so it switches on with ignition. Is there a better place or way to wire it in? I'm more than willing to re-wire stuff myself, I can solder, and have reasonable electronic knowledge etc, etc. Other thing that worries me is that the pump isn't currently connected via a fusible link, either...

Well, any help appreciated guys! Hell, I'll even take opinions...

Thanks!

PS: Pump is mounted in engine bay, I'd prefer to leave it there and rewire it than re-locate the whole thing. Wires I can play with, fuel lines - less willing to mess with at the mo...

I bought an electric fuel pump (3.5-5psi range) for a carbed L24 a few years back.

Was mounted just after the outlet of the tank; the closer to the tank the better, apparently electric pumps work better pushing the fuel up the line rather than pulling it through.

I also connected it direct to the battery via a 5amp rated fuse and dash switch; worked a treat for 4 years, no probs.

James

The pump should be wired using a nice healthy sized cable and operated via a relay to minimise any switch resistance.
Fuses are a must to protect both the wiring and the pump itself.
I suggest also the relay be driven from the ignition source.
A toggle switch works but is not the safest arrangement.
If the car is EFI, the ECU should shut off the pump within a couple of seconds of losing ignition signal.
Carbs. are a bit of a worry because the fuel is still pumped with the key on but no revs.
There are ways around this, like an oil pressure fed switch that will cut power to the pump as soon as oil pressure drops.
Physically, as previously suggested, the pump may need to be adjacent the fuel tank: check the fitting specs. of the pump or one like it to determine where it should be mounted.

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Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
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That power on your pump should not be hooked up from the coil.(Nigger rig)
I believe that source will be the BLK/ whit striped wire. This comes from the fuse box(switchable). Depending where you exactly getting the 12volts from before or after the ballast resistor if your still running one(then you wont have 12 but like 6-9 volts),or you got rid of it and running a Nissan 12volt distrbutor/coil.

On US spec 510 there is a spare wire under the fuse box(12v switchable). My Mallory fuel pump is right by the tank(wire is running back to it).

MY fuel regulator is up front. set to 3-4 pounds

Persoanly I like the stock fuel pumps and if you get in a wreck and the motor stops so does the fuel. Electric you can get to stop by added switches or whatever but it seems alot of people here have so many wires running alot of crap that it makes it look like sh*t. To me the less switches and wire the better.

There are switches that can be installed from the oil pump pressure hole witch will cut off(open) if looses oil pressure.

Cause you know most street cars esp if in a accident the key will be still in the ON position giving the fuel pump 12 volts.

But it youhave a electronic fuel injection just throw everthing out what I said.

There is also an 'LPG' switch that can run the pump only while it senses spark on the ignition coil. Thus, loss of spark = fuel pump turns off! It also primes the fuel pump for a second or two when you turn the ignition on which is handy for Dattos with Webers.
It is made to operate a gas valve on an LPG system but because it is only a switch, it can be used to operate anything you like!

PS Feral put me onto this