I've done a quick search through the forum, and I cant really find anything on this subject.

I know its an 'old' car problem, but I was just wondering if their is any sort of way that I can stop the fuel gauge on my Series 2 having a mind of its own! It just sort of goes wherever it pleases as the moment, I would love to know how much fuel I actually have in the tank, could save some embarrassing moments through a lack of fuel!!

Thanks

ON my 521 truck my vent was hitting the fuel sender causing a short. But his was a verticle sender. So I used JB weld to mount the vent back down.
The vent was causing a leak on top of tank also.


On 510s there is a metal(Can)block behind the dash for thermal compensation.Between the air temp outside, So it wont read hot before you start up.

But most go bad you will notice the gas and water gauge will be off.Cause it feeds both systems.
You can also ck to see if a wire trace is bad or a hair crack. Solder it up.

The other thing with 510s is your jack or a piece of meter is shorting in the trunk.

Then think of replacing the sender in the tank.
Maybe its just loosing the ground on the sender.

n my s2 trx, ive nearly lost my whole dash
i have no oil pressure, water temp, voltmeter of fuel guage
my speedo is 10%, lucky i like maths, and my tacho sit on 5500 when ideling, 4500 when it isnt running
unless you like to throw away money you can just live with it
to save embarassment, i worked out my fuel to distance ratio, i get ABOUT 6.5km per litre
i also carry 5 litres of juice in the boot, which sadly gets used about once a month
auto electricians like money, and fixing a dash yourself is a pain in the ass, especially because bluebirds are notorious for bad wiring, if it doesnt just fix itself you will probably be looking at replacing everything, not a recomended activity

learn to live with it, thats the datsun difference

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SSS610: The Nicer daily
STK610: The Original Daily...Now The Hills Car

S2 TRX: SuckThru Turbo: RETIRED
MR30 Hatch: Daily Driver: SOLD
720 King Cab: Daily Driver V2: SOLD

All bluebirds have fuel guages with minds of their own. When fuel is low my guage varies bewteen empty and 1/4 tank depending on the slope of the road, if i'm accelerating or braking etc. It's due to the design (or lack of) of the sender unit in the tank, not the dash itself.

As for dash guages that dont work, it's a very common problem with the 910's. The soldered connections on the back of the cluster become brittle with age and crack. You have to pull the dash apart and attack the circuits with the soldering iron to fix it.

http://www.910bluebird.com
http://forum.910bluebird.com

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Bluebird TRX
- SR20DET (died) 13.1@107mph
- Turbo'd SR20DE (sold) 12.9@108mph

S15 Daily

Soldering the control box is the easy part, getting the bastard out of the dash that's the hard part.....There is more steps in my manual to removing the instrument cluster than removing the motor...

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1000 ute - A14, dellow 5spd
180b - 32/36, elec ign, 72DEG cam, Pedders

Nah man she'll be right, just hit it in 3rd....

I'm willing to resolder all the control box, but without a manual I have no idea of where to start with removing the dash, I'd be grateful if someone could start me off somewhere!!

ive resoldred all the board behind the dash, to no effect
i suppose if i felt like spending a whole day + some i could fix it, but in the end, the car still runs the same!!

_________________
SSS610: The Nicer daily
STK610: The Original Daily...Now The Hills Car

S2 TRX: SuckThru Turbo: RETIRED
MR30 Hatch: Daily Driver: SOLD
720 King Cab: Daily Driver V2: SOLD

Did you unbolt the clock from the board, and solder the pins from the control box that are underneith where the clock sits? This is where they crack most, and it's usually where people overlook when they are re-soldering.

_________________
Bluebird TRX
- SR20DET (died) 13.1@107mph
- Turbo'd SR20DE (sold) 12.9@108mph

S15 Daily

I had the same problem with my stanza gauges. I'm not sure if its the same problem with the blueys, but it was to do with a voltage reducer on the back of the instrument cluster. It was a little electronic component, which is a little rectangle with 3 prongs coming off it. These prongs touch on some contacts to complete the circuit.

You can try cleaning the contacts, or just buy a new voltage reducer. it reduces the voltage from 12v to 10v. Nissan tries selling them for $40, but i got one from an electronic supplier in sth melbourne, cost me $1 or something like that. It didn't bolt on the same, but it was modified, and works fine.

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1981 SSS Stanza
L20 w/ L16 head
Twin 40's