One of my girlfriend's Mum's friends came over one day in her '91 Magna and when she went to leave the drivers side front brake was locked on.

Jacked it up and took the wheel off to find it had worn the steel of the inner pad so much that the pad had gotten thin enough to get out of the guides in the caliper and wedge itself between the rotor and the caliper.

So I unbolted the calipers on both sides of the front, got new pads, reset the pistons, and when trying to slide the drivers caliper across to put it over the rotor, noticed one of the slide pins was jammed in it's bore.

Previous mechanic didn't put the rubber seal back over the pin properly so water and dirt got in between the pin and it's bore and rusted and jammed it in.

I got a spanner over the hex end of the pin and tried to twist it to loosen it up (all it did was nearly twist the top of the pin off)

Pulled the bracket out with the pin and bore in it and stuck it in a vice and filled the little bevel around the pin with WD40 and left it for 3 hrs. Tried again with the spanner, didn't budge.

*Light bulb above head lights up*

Got a can of camping oven butane out of my car, upended it and pressed it onto the pin to freeze it for about 1 minute. Got my miss to boil the kettle and pour boiled water over the bracket where the bore is, got the spanner on the pin one last time, and it finally budged. Loosened it and finally got it out of its bore. Draw filed the rust off the pin and stuck a drill down the bore to get fid of the rust and put it all back together with a bunch of grease (nearly couldn't push the pin back in because the fit between the pin and bore was nearly airtight, which is why the pin has flat spots on it (the flat spots were what told me I was just about twisting the top off the pin, because I could see they had twisted haha) and put the seal back on properly.

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Sam-U-El/Racer135
1973 B110 - http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=21539
1972 B110
1978 120Y sdn
1973 B120 - dead
1971 VB110 4dr - sold
Others:
1995 Proton Wira - daily sh#tbox

wow lol i would of tried stilsens or oxy to heat up the housing.

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1600s arent the only datsun

I wouldve used an LPG/gas/oxy torch, but my miss' old man didnt have one and i forgot my butane ones. If you used stillsens it would've twisted it off flush with the top of the bore, which I nearly did with ring spanners hahaha

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Sam-U-El/Racer135
1973 B110 - http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=21539
1972 B110
1978 120Y sdn
1973 B120 - dead
1971 VB110 4dr - sold
Others:
1995 Proton Wira - daily sh#tbox

yeah probably lol

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1600s arent the only datsun

You'd probably have to be real careful using an oxy to do it too, may heat treat it and soften the metals, also could distort.

I tried tapping on the outside of the piece with the bore in it with a hammer too, but it was a bit too rusted for that to work.

That Magna's brakes weren't too bad of a setup to work on.

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Sam-U-El/Racer135
1973 B110 - http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=21539
1972 B110
1978 120Y sdn
1973 B120 - dead
1971 VB110 4dr - sold
Others:
1995 Proton Wira - daily sh#tbox

We use a product at work that does something similar. It's called "Rost-Off Ice", by Wurth. It's sold in an aerosol can.
Basically it chills the item you want removed while spraying a penetrating lubricant.
Works great on seized exhaust bolts.

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Rod

Yeah, all/most of the freeze sprays you get are butane based. One of my mates is a diesel fitter for a mine explosive ingredients transporter and he swears by Wurth Rost-Off Plus over WD40. He got me a can, I don't really see what the fuss is all about, except maybe that it doesn't make such a greasy mess as WD. Good for polishing chrome bumpers!

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Sam-U-El/Racer135
1973 B110 - http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=21539
1972 B110
1978 120Y sdn
1973 B120 - dead
1971 VB110 4dr - sold
Others:
1995 Proton Wira - daily sh#tbox