I'm looking to make a set of adjustable caster rods (aka radius rods) for my 180B. I'm interested in people's thoughts on what to use at the "front" of the rod where it attaches to the body - ie to replace the standard rubber bushes.

I've been looking at the inner tie rod ends in a rack and pinion setup. These look to be pretty much what I want, but would they be strong enough ?



Also looked at a few ball joints of the type that "clip" into the control arms rather than bolt on, like these HQ ones



Any thoughts ? I could always just use rod ends, I suppose.

_________________
1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Don't know, but watching with interest. I know Baz was looking into this as well, but haven't heard anything lately.
I think I've heard of ball joints that screw in, might be a better option.
The major force I can see in the castor rod would be in tension, would have thought the ball joint would handle it, don't think a tie-rod end would. Usually the steering rack tie rods are set up in compression.
How would you build adjustability into the ball joint option though ?
You're probably best just to go with the usual spherical bearings unless you're trying to remove bending from the castor rod when adjusting length.

_________________
Happiness is watching the race.... in your rearview mirror

What I had in mind was something like this



The locknut at "A" would be permanently locked so the "stud" part of the ball joint is always attached to the bit of hex bar that runs between "A" and "B". To adjust I'd back off the locknut at "B", then wind it in or out using the adjusting hex bit that I'd make with righthand threads at both ends. The ball part of the ball joint would (hopefully) rotate in the ball joint socket and allow this to work.

With a setup like this



I would need to make a "turnbuckle" setup for adjusting (involving nasty lefthand threads and expensive taps / dies ) or would need to undo the rod end from its mounting bracket to adjust if I didn't use lefthand threads because the rod end can't "rotate" in the direction it would need to.

Rod ends is probably the easiest and safest way to go, I was just toying with other options.

_________________
1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

These work fine Factory parts, cheap, adjustable, no modifications, did I mention cheap?

_________________
Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

I had the LJ Torana rods in mine, they hit the swaybar going over bumps (on droop rather than compression) and were the most painful things ever to adjust (could turn the nuts ~1/8 of a turn at a time- wheel aligners wouldnt touch them). I have now got the T3 rods as pictured above and they are a breeze to adjust

edit: the pics of the t3 rods are for a different model so they appear much thinner than they really are.

I was hoping to avoid using rubber / urethane bushes. Last set of urethane ones I had on the 1600 (can't remember the brand, but they were black) ended up falling to bits after half a dozen track days. Maybe due to the lower control arms being lengthened, therefore the radius rod came through the urethane bush at a bit of an angle ? Or maybe just a bad batch ? Or maybe I can't drive and hit too many ripple strips . I hadn't noticed till a scrutineer picked up on it and wouldn't let me compete till I fixed it

Also, I'm using a 200B front end in a 180B, none of the standard radius rods I have are long enough so I need to do something to lengthen them anyway.

Yep, the T3 ones I put up are AE86 I think, was just the first pic I found of them.

_________________
1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Hi Dave,
I used LJ Torana inner tie rod ball joints - basically same setup as the Keybol pics above.
Cut the rack and pinion shaft 2" back from the ball joint and machined a thread on it. Then grafted the rest of the tie rod onto the standard Datto radius rod by creating a sleeve to fit over both ends and then pinned and welded it. In the first instance I measured up required length to get about 6 Deg. Castor. For Castor adjustment I spaced the ball joint away from the Datto chassis bracket with shims to get it same both sides. If I had been smarter I would have machined a turn buckle... The nice thing about the LJ Torana rack shaft is it's just the right size to go through the Datto radius rod chassis mounting bracket. By comparison the Keybol pic above seems to have a small threaded shaft on the back of the ball joint which might be problematic when it comes time to mounting it and keeping it there.

Those flash red coloured "techno toy" joeys look the go, but they also "relocate" the front mounting point - looks like an inch shorter. I think that shortening the length of the radius rod will increase dynamic change of suspension angles and add to bump steer ??? (Tech heads needed here).

_________________
_______________________________
Regards

Max.

Thanks for the info.

Since I'm putting it on a 180B, the bracket where the radius rod attaches to the car is only bolted on, rather than welded on like a 1600. This gives me the luxury of being able to fabricate a new mounting "box" arrangement to get the pivot point of the radius rod wherever I want it. I'm leaning towards lining it up with the pivot point of the lower control arm - simply because I can't think of a better way to line it up

Because I'm fabricating it, I can also mount the new radius rod however is best / easiest by making the mounting bracket to suit whatever joint I end up getting.

And the picture of the "Keybol" joint was just the first one I could find to illustrate the type I was thinking of - interesting about the Torana one, I'll have to check one out.

_________________
1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

In my opinion, whatever we use should be zero friction in its operation.
By that I mean the suspension, minus the spring and dampener should be able to move between its extremities without binding or restriction.
The trouble with bushings is that although adjustment can be achieved, it is at the expense of distorting the relevant bushes, thus creating binding/friction.
I have tried all sorts of adjusting methods [without spending a zillion dollars on suspension parts] and my conclusion is that bushes are out and adjustable rod ends are in.
If you can achieve the suspension adjustment range you desire without distorting any insulator bushes and the suspension still moves freely with little effort, then job done.
Of course that means $$$ and harshness since you can't have everything, so I have been told
I'm sure you can now relate the above with a Formula 1 type setup but that is the reality.
So, you can compromise and get the suspension settings as you desire but, spring and damper rates become very fuzzy if the bushes are retained and distorted causing additional and unpredictable friction loads

_________________
Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net