Hi all,

Just fitted new 7/8 master cylinder with 180B small can booster to my 1600. Baz (from Datsport) posted the tricky bit is adjusting the pushrod that hangs out of the booster. Anyone got a rule of thumb or measurements for this ? Its disk/drum with 4 piston calipers on the front, near new rotors and pads. The setup worked fine with 180b master cyl, just a bit much pedal travel. I'm sure this is the problem. btw i've bled the whole lot including master, sure there is no air. Nice firm brake pedal it just doesn't stop that well. any thoughts would be great

cheers, Shaun.

Correct me if I'm wrong but shouldn't it be a 3/4 MC.

To adjust the booster push rod, bolt the spacer plate on then adjust the rod to stick out 10mm.

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DEZA
OzDat WA President

76 180B Wagon FJ20e, LT8 -daily
83 DR30RS FJ20et, GT35/40, 45mm Turbo Smart waste gate, 35mm Sard BOV, 356rwhp @ 19psi.

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Thanks for the reply. Yeah, originally 180b M/C was 3/4 inch. The 7/8th is a bolt on upgrade. Found some other info saying 0.004 - .008 in clearance b/w booster pushrod and M/C. This leaves the pushrod about 10mm proud of the M/C backing plate as you stated.

Thanks, Shaun.

Hey mate, while your under the dash and in the engine bay it's worth giving the clevis pin a bit of a make-over also.

I have drilled out my clevis pin to a larger size and installed a new pin to get rid of 40 years of slip in the pedal. The hole in the pedal will look more like an oval than a circle. Drilling and re-pinning will take just about all of the slop out. (1-2mm at the clevis pin means 5-10mm at the pedal in slop)

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1969 Datsun 510 2 Door Sedam - FJ20ET, GT2876R, Haltech, R200 (Street Car All Rounder)
1981 Datsun 910 Bluebird GX Sedan - VQ30DET, GT35R, Jatco (Project Drag - Street 10sec Car)
2011 VW Amarok Highline TD400i