Just want to knoiw the best way of running the master cylnder without a brake booster in a stanza? Any opinions/sugestions/experience more than welcome. Cheers Jay

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Previous Stanza 80 model: L20B balenced for 9500rpm, big cam, twin 45's 100kW ATW.
Current Stanza 79 model: 1 owner spec http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=62&t=23236
In progress 82 model: track car rebuild with above motor http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f= ... 40&start=0

If you're not going the whole hog of twin m/cyl's. I'd just make a bracket that replaces the booster. Machine a h/duty pushrod from something decent, taper the end down to suit the m/cyl and then move the pushrod point closer to the pivot on the pedal.
AP and Tilton seem to work on ~6:1 pedal ratio for non-boosted applications. The Corolla I'm playing with is around 3:1, so you've got to move the pushrod point up the pedal by quite a way. This will of course result in a much deeper pedal, but them's the breaks.

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Happiness is watching the race.... in your rearview mirror

Why aren't you running a booster?

Not having a go at you, just curious.

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In the missus' old 1600 i simply just removed and pluged up the inlet/outlet for the vacuum hose and left the booster in there. Worked a treat.

And May, dunno bout the OP but i didn't wanna run a booster as the brakes were so touchy and too easy, once i removed the booster line the brakes worked like they would in any normal car, I dont think 1600's are meant to have boosters. Some people like to go without as you get a better feel for what your brakes are doing.

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Do any stanzas come out with no booster at all? You could just use those parts.
If they dont, just pick a similar datsun that comes out factory with and without a booster.
So long as it has the same firewall bolthole spacings and use a factory firewall to master cylinder mounting plate and pushrod setup from something like a 210/510 (if they fit) and then bolt your master cyl to that...