Cheers guys
I have adjusted the rear shoes/drum with the cam never touched the hand break cable,
Wiseys180 cheers mate yeah abs in seaford where i got the master suggested the same thing so i used 3 clamps they said the pedal should be rock hard if not the master was at fault......and it is rock hard so the master isn't the issue,released the clamp on the back and it made a little difference released the calmp pass front a little more spongy and then the final to i have a sh*t pedal.
So tmrw im pricing a rebuild kit for the front calipers for some reason they are draging a little. i think this might be where the problem is.
Warps
Thanks buddy i tried your method and the pedal didn't change that much so i would say the shoes have the correct clearance.
now what i did do that Made a heap of difference was adjust the length of the pin the comes out of the brake booster that brought the pedal back off the floor a fair bit... a lot better but still not anywhere near 100%

I appreciate your help so far guys thankyou!
Cheers Anthony

Hey mate I'm just wondering if the adjustment you did on the booster pin was inside the car on your pedal side or was it the other side that pushes into the master cylinder. If so how did you adjust that? Does is screw in?

by removing the M/c from the booster and the rod is on a thread you can screw it in or out... though this should only really require adjusting for inital set up so make sure you are sure that is the problem before you go changing it.

ANTHS. If your front brakes are dragging its because it has the residual pressure valve in it (or whatever it is called the one that holds some pressure in your lines for the drum brakes), I had the same problem i bought a brand new M/C and for some reason it had this valve in both front and rear anyway removed the front one and problem solved.

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