On the hunt for some old Datto diffs for LSD trial. Diffs need to have the planet/sun gears still intact.

'Ol mate is a machinist and mad mini driver. He has machined up quiet a few centers for the mini's and wants to make a few up for datto diffs for testing. Picture attached of the old mini centers.
He currently has one in his race mini. Hooks up very well.

The complete kit will cost $350 each, all components professionally manufactured in WA, these plates have been fitted in two race mini's in WA with great success. Easy to fit , and 1/4 the price of other units, questions welcome.

Cheers

so they need to be LSD's or just open diffs that can be made in to LSD with the mad mini drivers machining skills?

Redman,
I am after open center diffs to retro fit the LSD center in to it.
Do you still have a spare laying around?
My R160 diff internals were last seen half way down motor plex strip.
Probably start with fitting up a stock R160 with the lsd center first.
I'll drop it my datto and take it to the track for a torture test.

Will be good for budget datto builders to have a cheap easy fit functional lsd (other than welding it solid).
I am looking forward to this project. The results in the mini's are excelent.
Give us a buzz if you can help.

Ben
0417 976 985

They look like a slightly different design to the phantom grip to me, which is not really a LSD??

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

they look like Phantom grip centres.

they convert an open center diff into lsd.

my concern would be how much power you can put through them, might be ok for a mild L series
not sure how they would hold up with SR/FJ etc

http://www.phantomgrip.com

That being said, I'd be keen to try one out,
Have a spare diff if you need

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1600 SR20
http://www.signzone.net.au/

I'll take you up an that diff. Let us know when/where how much ect.

Totaly agree power wise,
I guess if you've got the spare cash to transplant an SR then another few grand on a plated R200 or SUBI 2-way c/v set up should be affordable.
That said my previous R160's have all taken some decent abuse. Drag racing killed the last one as expected.
For my budget street / track use behind L series N/A motor's R160's have held up very well for me in the past.

Ben

Hi all
to answer a few questions, yes they do appear to look the same as the Phantom grip units, the fact is these have been made for mini's since the 80's , they have been a budget alternative to salisbury for many years.

It is worth noting that Phantom supply red and yellow grade springs, as per below chart from Boyne springs, green is defineatly the way to go

Medium Duty Blue Die springs.

Medium Heavy Duty Red Die springs.

Heavy Duty Gold Die springs.

Extra Heavy Duty Green Die springs.

to answer "torque rating "questions , as soon as I can get my hands on a diff I will do some tests and post results, you need to remember these plates are also designed to protect your diff, so you don't do a bennygee and scatter them down the drag strip.

Guy's these plates are made locally and professionally, i am keen to develop something that will meet most peoples needs and budget

Cheers 69cooper

Registering my interest, keep us updated on how they turn out.

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Guys
I been having a wee look at the phantom grip site and have noticed something a little different, if you look at the fitting instructions for the mini plates you might notice how big the hole is in the centre of the plate, not sure if you can see from the small picture that bennygee has put up but I make that hole much smaller, just enough to clear the raised section on the output shaft 16mm dia, this means much more surface area for friction to do it's stuff. there is no reason why this couldn't be ground flat increasing your friction area which = more grip

Anyone out there in dato land have some pictures of the output shaft

69cooper

Sorry if this is a bit off topic but would your machinist mate be interested in making/modifying Datsun output shafts for Subaru VLSDs?
Complete Subaru R160 VLSDs are sub $300 (mine was $200 i think), but the problem is that one of the output shafts needs the extra spline to actuate the LSD. I believe the rest of the shaft spline is more or less the same except that the Subaru diff uses circlips to secure the shafts and the Datsun one uses bolt on 'caps' inside the diff.
That would be easily fixed by machining a groove into some datsun outputs though me thinks.
Not quite what you were asking about but it's another easy way to get a LSD into a lower powered Datsun.

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I will have a chat to beenygee next time we catch up,
theres nothing like a challenge

Machining or grinding the circlip groove on the end of the splined shaft would be fairly easy. Assuming the stubby axles are the same diameters subi s datto R160. The hard part is the mini spline that extends past the sun gear spline intio the viscous center.
Without that little spline engaged in the Viscous guts you have a open diff.
Machining from solid 4340 stock aint cheap. I am going to have to do this for my R180 STi diff conversion when my welded ones break, or buy the ones from the states.
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=20250

Better off to ask Mal though (cooper69) he's the machinist.
Get photo's if you can and some measurements Mal will make it.

not for everyone.. my budget is blown already, an affordable LSD or LSD comparable equivalent is worth a look in
i have an open R180 in the ratio i like that i'd put up for the test, and a spare R180 suitable for an LSD centre put aside for when budget allows.

69cooper, do you think your setup is capable of withstanding ~200kw at the wheels? that's around what i'm looking at achieving with an
SR20 conversion with a few little tweaks.. i'll be using an R180 diff.

Any updates on this?

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1979 Datsun Stanza Coupe
1979 Datsun Stanza Coupe Project
1979 Datsun Stanza GX
1982 Datsun Stanza GX
1966 Nissan Cedric Custom Six
1972 Volkswagen Beetle
1974 Toyota Landcruiser Stallion (SWB)
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We have put this idea on the back burner.
Mal's (ccoper69) has changed jobs and I have started up my own contracting business. Niether of us have had shed time this year to do any tinkering. Mal was having some distortion/cupping issues whilst trying to machine off the friction washers from the round bar. Was talk of getting the washers punched from sheet. Turned into a PIA in the end.