The glue that holds the bonnet together has come loose. Particularly near the bonnet catch.

I was at Phillip Island raceway recently and heading down the straight, the force of the air going into the engine bay and over the top of the bonnet has unglued sections. I need to repair them with something, but would like to know the best glue which will keep it all together again.
Anyone have some recommendations?
What kind of procedure? Rip the bonnet off, glue and lay upside down with weights on it? Might have to invest in some clamps?

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Sikaflex?

Something like Sikaflex would bond it well.

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online ... 1079#Cross

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Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

227 hey?
Might go 252. It's got a slightly higher tensile strength.
Thanks for the suggestions!
Anyone else have any recommendations? I'm thinking of going the Sikaflex. I have used it previously and it's pretty good stuff.

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

did mine with sikaflex, still holding strong a few years after

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1971 B110
1971 P510
1974 H230
1974 B120

Sweeet.
Thanks Gents.
I can get the 252 from Bunnings. It comes in white and black!

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Yeah, 1600s build up a lot of air pressure under the bonnet at high speed. Makes a good case for a front spoiler to reduce that plus improve engine cooling and reduce front end lift at speed. Are there any you like the look of or would you prefer keeping your 1600 looking relatively standard? The stock stonetray between the crossmember and radiator support panel helps too, if you can still use it. If not you could always fabricate something.....

Glad to hear you've had it at Phillip Island. Are you still running a stock size turbo?

Cheers!

Anybody who has owned a C210 will have run into the same issue. When you get over 120km/h you can see the bonnet start to lift from the air underneath it. After a while the webbing/frame under the bonnet starts to come away from the sheet metal. I zapped a few spot welds on the C210 but otherwise sikaflex is good ... Only trouble with sikaflex is that it does not dry completely to the core and will stretch overtime.
I have used sikaflex before when fitting big stereos to my cars it helps to lessen the vibrations caused in the webbing/frame of the bonnet and boot and behind the rear seats

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First Car
1982 Nissan GC211 Skyline EFI L28 5sp
Second Car
1981 Datsun 280ZX 2+2
Current Ride
1982 Datsun Bluebird Venturer (62000km grandpa spec)
2004 Ford Escape (Daily/Family)
Have Owned
1983 Nissan R30 Hatch
1979 Datsun 280C
1995 Audi A4 B5 Quatro 1.8lt Turbo 5sp AWD
1976 KC Centura

I bought one of those fibreglass BRE style "spook spoilers" from an Ozdat member here, but it just doesn't fit. It would be a heap of work to get it to fit and I just don't have the time at the moment to work on all those things. Trent got his to fit, but the panel beater spend a couple of hours full time just getting it to sit correctly.
I'm running the 2860RS Disco Potato, and it's fantastic. Good torque all the way through and good power up to 6600rpm and tapers off slightly after this to 7200. I get full boost by around 3100rpm!
Just gotta figure out how to keep the bonnet down while racing down the straights at race tracks! Currently I use a secondary bonnet restraint (a strap from bunnings) as an insurance policy. I was told by the scrutineers that I didn't need it!

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Hey Nik,

They have used sikaflex on mine a few weeks back, seems much better now. Can show you on Sunday, if the car comes back...

The spoiler was a pain to fit, it looks good but a lot of work :S

Cheers,

Trent

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1600 Build: http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=22694