The stubs into the box? Not according to wolfcreek racing. He said 29 vs 30 splines

So will look into getting to suby stubs mates to these



That way the flange should bolt to another flange easy enough.



Just machine out the lip so the stock lip mates to it.

Seems easier to have the uni like that for ease of replacement long term.

I'm a little new to this, so can I ask (and sorry if it has been covered) why the Subaru R160 centre can't be put into the Subaru R160 diff?

I was thinking that this is likely to be a bolt-in or close-to-bolt-in proposition (eg. mix and match bearings or shims and bingo) as opposed to assing about with driveshafts. That seems like a lot of work, to retain the standard sized diff!

Well from what I have read the subi diff housing bolts straight into the 1600, just modify stub shaft flanges and your off. If you are concerned about it only being an r160 then go for an r180 out of an sti. There is a thread up the top of the driveline forum.

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Chris Thomas

1971 1600, mild L18, 5 speed

All I want is less to do, more time to do it and higher pay for not getting it done.

Its purely to get an LSD - Subie LSD's are cheap and readily available, Datsun diffs aren't available in LSD.

All the Subie R160 diffs bolt into a 1600 perfectly, the problem is that Subaru run a clip-in CV driveshaft and Datsun run a bolt-in driveshaft with uni-joints. The two spline patterns are different (especially in the more readily available viscous LSD's), so you need to buy / make some sort of device to connect the Datsun driveshaft with the Subaru splines in the Subaru diff.

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Did you find your shafts Dave?

Found one (the short side), and made a start. Just need to find time to take it to the driveshaft shop for a quote on welding. Then find my "long" shaft (or find another one at the wreckers) and make the other side.

Cut CV cup off.

Turn the remains of the CV cup down

Finished


Make a flange ( I didn't have a big enough bit to make it round, so its rectangular, similar to original)

Turned down shaft fits in recess machined into new flange, ready for welding.

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

I like it a lot. Looks good hope welding not mega $

I'll just be migging my shafts up, pre heat and bring them down to temp slow.
Out of interest dave how did the subi shafts machine? Were they hard at all or were they soft? As this will determine how strong the weld will turn out.

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Chris Thomas

1971 1600, mild L18, 5 speed

All I want is less to do, more time to do it and higher pay for not getting it done.

Softer than I expected - I cut them with a cutting disk in the angle grinder and used a carbide tool in the lathe and didn't have any problems.

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

If they are soft, usually don't need too much special pre heat and cooling from my understanding

I did the same kind of thing with silvia N/A r180 stub axles.
Machined off the large cup style flange and welded on a flat piece of plate that the standard datsun half shaft can bolt to
I tig welded it and then put in a bucket of lime to cool. Haven't tested them out yet so not sure how strong they would be

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Circuit Race 1600 in the build