This sounds a little dumb, mainly because it is.

20 years ago when I was a fledgling I was shown how to reinforce and fit 240K arms into my 1600 for rallying. This involved removal of the 240K shock mount and welding on of the 1600 one. I have done it this way several times since and never thought twice about it.

Anyhow I recently did another set and a mate asked me what the big difference was necessitating the extra work. He rightly asked that in this day and age of custom Bilsteins why I didn't get pin mount each end and leave the 240K mounts on.

I always thought it was a line-up issue however I have never actually looked.

Can anyone tell me if I am right in converting them or wasted some sweat?

Thanks
Barney

Can you post some pics. of what you do?
I have plans to use MR30 rear control arms in a PL510 which will convert the rear suspension to a concentric spring/strut setup, coilovers if you like.
The reason was to be able to easily adjust the corner weight of the vehicle by winding the spring platforms up/down.

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Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
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I have fitted HR31 rear arms previously and they work well, you just need to shorten the CV shafts and you need adjustable toe and camber. I am not using them on this car as CAMS forbid rear coilovers, so the 240K rear arms give me a slight increase in track and MR30 have the same size bearings so I can run CV's which I want to do.

I would also consider fitting turrets in place of the std shock mounts.

For those that are interested, the import HR31 GTS rear xmember bolts straight in to a 1600. It has a deeper V necessitating removal or moving back the spare wheel well to fit the R200, but it provides stronger xmember, R200 4.4:1 LSD with 4 pinion ramp, adjustable toe/camber, coil overs, vented 290mm rotors with big single pot calipers (GTR twins will bolt on), internal handbrake and massive CV shafts. BE WARNED the track increase is about 50mm so flares are needed. CAMS will not allow swapping of xmembers but if you are not restricted by such rules I think they are the ducks guts.

Hey guys.. may i ask what model 240k arms can be used? C210? C110? C211?

Thanx guys

WOW, R31 import x-member bolts in, how much would one of those rear ends cost?

cause if you look at the price of say a datsport adj rear x-member at $600, R31 brakes and lines at $500, R200 diff and fitting $1000 minimum, and the rest (all just guesstimates)

If this could be done for even $2,000 plus whatever else is required, to me it seems like it makes sense, has there ever been a documented report on this being fitted, like all the little niggly things that were forgotten about, and how much exactly bolts up

And is 50mm track increase all over, so 25mm a side, that just means running FWD offset wheels, right? i'd flare my guards if it resulted in better handling and a stronger rear end

This MAY be an option.

http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=656

A little pricey but when you add up the components. IE eibach springs, AGX shocks and coilover platform all ready to effectively bolt in I think you would struggle to find a cheaper option locally. And before someone mentions it, Shipping is only $30 and you can add a few other items to the sachel for the same price.

The front coilover kit in particular is very attractive at only $180.

cheers

James

I don't think the HR31 skyline has adjustable camber. Just toe.
Plus, the rear cross member has some pretty soft rubber bushes in it for the four wheel steer. (two hydraulic rams either side push on the cross member, distorting the bush that mounts the x-member to the body...-primitive, but it's fun none-the-less...)

I think if you are going to the trouble of fitting the HR31 rear, you might as well just go and buy an HR31... They are like a bigger 1600, and only weigh 1250kg...

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
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#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

But we all know which we'd rather own!!

And if it can be improved upon (easily?) with the fitment of a later model's rear end, i'm suprised it hasn't been covered previously as it's another option to making an adjustable rear x-member

As for soft bushes- easy fix, thats what urethane bushes are made for

Ummm... an unmolested HR31-GTS-R?
A KPGC-10 Hakosuka GT-R?

_________________
1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Why hack up an HR-31 (unless you can score a rear end at the right price),
when you could hack up a common as a commodore silvia and whack the rear end into a 1600...
You don't have the semi-trailing arm setup, and you can have a multi-link rear end?

_________________
1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

got me there, but i was meaning between the basic 2 cars, and if it is a much as a bolt in (with removal of spare wheel well) then it's by far easier than an S13 rear end

how true that is, is what i want to know, more so than actually doing it

So can you?

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Yes! I'm another Datsun sicko.